It's 9 a.m. on 20 July 2024 and I’m in southern Spain. It’s already 35 °C, and there’s not a hint of shade. A bar appears on the side of the road – my salvation – it’s air-conditioned. A café Bombón and an iced Coke, por favor!

The brand-new ultradistance Via Race, has just begun. The start line was a few hours back in the coastal city of Cartagena. The route winds through Spain, crosses the Picos de Europa, goes up through France to the Massif Central, before crossing the Alps and finishing in Giovinazzo in southern Italy. Roughly 4,000 kilometers are on the agenda, and each cyclist must plan his or her own route, hitting mandatory checkpoints along the way.

A second coffee, and I’m back on the road. The temperature hasn’t dropped, but a long downhill section offers a bit of respite. Earlier this morning, some fellow racers and I, all worried about the heat on the forecast, shared a few tips: long sleeves to avoid sunburn, ice slipped into a scarf or tights to cool our necks, melted ice cream in hydration packs – anything to beat the heat!

I’ve never ridden in such extreme heat, and without any shade, and the first day passes OK until my body signals me to halt. At 4 p.m. it’s 47°C. I can’t pedal anymore, and I find myself walking on a slight incline and starting to shake. Fearing heatstroke, I stop by the roadside, seeking shade under a tree to lower my body temperature and heart rate. 

During a forced break, there’s nothing better to do than take a siesta, so I doze off for over two hours. I start rethinking my race strategy. To finish on time, I’d need to cover at least 250 kilometers a day. Given the heat, that’s impossible, and I don’t want to spend nights on the bike. When planning my route, I’d chosen paths that promised beautiful scenery.

I make my decision: I’m no longer racing; I’ll go at my own pace. This sport-focused cycle touring will allow me to take naps every day during the hottest hours, which will be a welcome break since the Spanish heatwave will soon be followed by a French one. For the first time I descend a mountain pass in short sleeves, so hot it is I cross the Pyrenees.

Slowing down lets me enjoy the places along my route. The Picos de Europa, mountains in the northwest of Spain, are a well-preserved natural paradise. The Spanish Basque Country is breathtaking and unforgettable. I explore the regions of Spain and France at the foot of the Pyrenees, and even though I’m already familiar with Auvergne, it's one of my favorite cycling spots and I’m always thrilled to return.

For a few days, I’ve been watching the weather reports, and a heatwave is forecast for Italy. I have no desire to face a third one. My new goal is to climb Puy Mary. For several days now, I’ve been playing cat-and-mouse with another participant, Fabian. I can see him on the tracking system, but our paths don’t cross. I ride until nightfall, setting up camp, while he tends to stop in towns. The highest summit in the Massif Central is a mandatory checkpoint, and we must pass through.

It is also close to the small train station in Aurillac. I decide to end my journey at the summit – scratching with a view! I turn off my tracker, inform Ian and Ingeborg, the race organisers, and then set off to meet Fabian, who is climbing the pass. Finally, I get to meet him as a giant grasshopper lands on one of his tattoos and watches us. It’s time to head home. 

✌

FOLLOW FOR MORE.