Le Pilgrimage is a gravel adventure inspired by Saint Roch, the patron saint of pilgrims, that crosses through some of the best riding country in the French and Italian Alps. It’s a non-competitive ride that offers the best of an ultra with added camaraderie, great food and a few creature comforts.

Base camp is Chalet AlpeLune in the Parc des Écrins, near Briançon in the southern Alps, run by Simon Rosmolen and his wife, a chef. The event follows the same format as last year’s début – two shorter day rides and then a night out in the wilds for a longer finishing loop.

Café du Cycliste athlete Josh Reid went along for the ride. “The French Alps was an area I had not yet fully explored and after a busy season of racing I was craving an adventure without the racing aspect,” he says. “Le Pilgrimage delivers on this. Its not a race, with an emphasis on the people you meet and places you go. Staying In the Chalet AlpeLune after every stage with great food, good company, a sauna and a hot tub gave a unique ultra experience that I was excited to try. It didn't disappoint. Anne is a very good cook. I'd recommend the event just for the food!”

With check points at remote mountain refuges on both sides of the border, Le Pilgrimage takes riders places that very few cyclists go. Aside from the stunning views and the deserted tracks, the highlight of the first day was, perhaps, the fondue served at the Cabane de Clot St Jean, at 2,000m in the Massif des Écrins.

Day 2 was a little more tricky. Bad weather overnight, including snowfall at the top of the legendary Col du Galibier pass, put the route in doubt. The Galibier closed, but was forecast to reopen; however, the icy terrain crossed by the military track into the Vallée de la Clarée was in doubt. Would the sun come out in time to make a crossing of the Col des Rochilles possible? Luckily, despite some cold weather and chilly descents, the way was clear of ice, and all riders made it across safely.

“The final stage was an overnight adventure over the border into Italy,” Josh says. “I'm not a big coffee drinker, but as soon as you cross over to Italy it would be rude not to indulge in an espresso.” Riders descended into Piemonte and then climbed the steep Colle Begino to reach the famous Strada dell’Assietta, a gravel road linking together several cols that rarely descends below 2,000m. On the other side they spent the night – some in hotels, others in bivoaucs in the forest.

“Getting up out of my bivi on the overnight stage and riding up the lower slopes of the Monte Jafferau into the glowing mountains of the morning was pretty memorable. Most of the riders had slept in hotels in Susa but I was up higher, giving a unique view of the sunrise. There was one rider ahead of me, Michel. As I continued up the mountain I suddenly heard someone calling my name from the bushes down below. I looked down to find him peeping out of his tent on a rather steep slope, and I brushed my teeth while waiting for him to pack his tent away,” Josh says. “We began cycling up the climb together as Michel recounted his stores of sliding to the bottom of his tent throughout the night. To our delight and amusement around the following hairpin was the flattest, nicest tent pitch imaginable!”

After the final check point, there was an optional climb to the deserted Forte Jafferau, at over 2,800m. “Climbing up to Monte Jafferau is one of the most spectacular places I've ridden a bike and I've ridden in some amazing places around the world,” Josh says. “The borders of France and Italy are littered with military roads and forts from WW1 with Forte Jafferau being the highest in Italy. The pitch-black kilometre-long tunnel mid-way up the climb opens up to reveal gravel hairpins with snow-capped mountains as a backdrop. Keeping your eyes peeled you can spot marmots on the side of the road. The pizza in Sestriere was also particularly memorable.”

From there it only remained to head back to France, clean up at the chalet, and settle down by the fire before the finishers’ party that night.

Le Pilgrimage was one of Café du Cycliste’s sponsored partners of 2024. Alongside the bike ride there’ll be a Pilgrimage Trail (run) in the 2025 season, and Café du Cycliste will also be back supporting the best events with that forever outsiders spirit.

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