The Highest Crit In The World Criterium : a bicycle road race, consisting of numerous laps of a short closed circuit. Criterium, 'crits' for short, are for bringing cycling to the people. Crits are full-gas speed on short pan-flat circuits with 90 degree bends, the odd hairpin and barriers with fans hanging over the top, ringing branded cloches and drinking beers provided by sponsors. Crits are for post-Tour de France show-boating and pro-cyclist salary top-ups. The Highest Crit In The World is none of these things. There are no food trucks, trade stands or hospitality suites. There are no grandstands or finish line arches adorned with branding. The road is not closed, although it is practically empty. It’s as far away from the niçois streets and people as you might possibly expect. It's for six riders who were inspired by a simple off-the-wall idea. The Highest Crit In The World does however share some of the core characteristics of its lower elevation contemporaries. Redline racing, riding non-stop at or over threshold for several laps and contested between racing cyclists with the bike handling skills to ride elbows out and go shoulder to shoulder in a frantic battle for the line. Add in oxygen deprivation and the idea of a criterium at this altitude becomes an extreme concept. The Highest Crit In The World took place on the Cime de la Bonette, topping out at 2,802m above sea level. We believe it is the Highest Crit In The World because there are no official records documenting other mountain top crits. If there are others who have done it, we'd love to exchange stories and compare notes. Those that have been there will know that the Cime de la Bonette is the 2km loop that lassoes the peak of the mountain above the traditional Col itself. For us, having visited the Cime so many times over the years, it was an obvious thing to do : at least, it's as obvious as any of the other follies in this sport. The riders of Highest Crit In The World were, in a way, self-selecting. These are those young enough, fit enough and/or crazy enough to ignore the logistical difficulties, the physical challenge and be blinded by the idea of something really quite unique. To turn the screw on one another at altitude, over a parcours of two halves – one with a quite brutal ascent with ramps at 20% and the other a barrier-free hair-raising descent. The riders of the Highest Crit In The World are a selection of the best amateurs from the Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur region both past and present. They rose through the ranks from the juniors to the elite amateurs, and beyond. At 19, Andrea Misfud is the youngest and has recently graduated from the junior ranks to join CR4C Roane, one of the top teams in the French Division National 1. ‘DN1’ is as high as you can go as an amateur and is the spring board to a pro contract. Despite a recent leg break, Andrea is on the way up but away from the demands of the top level he still loves an adventure - his first ascension of Ventoux was with us on gravel... Conversely, and to prove the point that genetics are a huge factor in cycling talent, Andrea's dad, Jean-Stephan decided to join the party. Because he'd just been riding with his son at altitude down the valley in Isola 2000 and he still remembers glory days winning local races and further afield winning stage three of the Tour de Tunisie and being awarded Best Combative Rider of the RÁS, Ireland’s premier stage race. And, we guess, moments like this with your son are pretty special. Valentin Caraplis is a Café du Cycliste employee who runs marathons and rides the biggest sportives he can find. The running tunes his top end, the riding works on his endurance and the sense of adventure maintains motivation levels at maximum. He's a mountain lover and he’s here to prove he's not just a diesel engine. Thomas Navarro, 25, is a local elite amateur cyclist who has now turned his hand to other things, namely a profession in triathlon. Having raced with and against Florent and Marvin before his transition (pun intended), Thom was delighted to line up on the Col to break up the swim-bike-run repeat that pays the bills. Florent Icard’s view from home in Auron includes the Cime de la Bonette. As we’ve documented before, Flo is just like his dad Michel – a rider for life who doesn’t discriminate between who he rides with or what the particular discipline of cycling happens to be on the agenda on any given day. Plus he has an actual cowbell to act as the cloche for the start/finish line. He always brings la classe. Marvin Gruget is primarily a mountain biker, not a roadie. He has many notable entries on his palmares but the one that stands out is finishing ahead of a certain Lance Armstrong at the XTERRA (off-road) Triathlon World Championships. Once he transitioned to the road in 2015 he became regional champ almost instantaneously. He also claims to be a world champion at pétanque and one-legged surfing, but so far this has not been verified by the authorities. The racing of the Highest Crit In The World? Two cycling teams, two cycling jerseys, the south side in Dalida Navy and the north side in Dalida Bordeaux. Anti-clockwise loops of the Cime, climbing the western (Saint-Etienne) side and descending the eastern (Jausiers) side. To have a start finish line on the line of the Col de la Bonette itself is, dare we say it, something other-worldly. The Cime road splits left and right from the Col and cuts its way into the mountain to trace the track to the roadside memorial at the highest point. It’s an 800m climb on the south east side at an average of 10% gradient and Strava says the last right hander before the summit hits 20%. What it doesn’t tell you is how much less oxygen you are getting into your blood. That job is left to lungs and legs to feedback directly just how much O2 they are missing. 'The bicycle-riders drank much wine, and were burned and brown by the sun. They did not take the race seriously except amongst themselves. They had raced among themselves so often that it did not make much difference who won' (Ernest Hemingway) Only it does make a difference. It always does. Andrea and Thom may be the only two riders still actively competing but everyone save for Andrea's dad has pinned on a number against each other at some stage. There is no prize money at stake for this self-invented folly but it's more important than that. Pride amongst friends. That's why The Highest Crit In The World might be sub-titled, 'the race of non-stop attacks'. Each one with a smirk or a smile and in the knowledge that it will probably never last. Racing for fun. This kind of racing requires serious bike skills and the Highest Crit In The World is no different. It's worse in fact. The moon landscape results in debris on the steep descents so line choice is not necessarily the more traditional one but rather the stay-on-two-wheels one. Not that this worries our racers. When you have descended most of the mountains in France in a 100-strong peloton, the relative space of the Cime de la Bonette and familiarity with the riding styles of those around you is 'comfortably enjoyable’. And the winner? There probably should have been a handicap system in place based on age, life commitments and palmares. Everyone came together as they passed the cow bell going into the final lap. And then unfortunately the photographer's camera had a problem. So we have no evidence of the winner but needless to say he’s still talking about it. If you really want to know the result, you'll have to come to Nice to meet the riders on one of our weekend rides and hear the six different versions of the truth.

SCENES FROM THE CIME Take a trackside view of not only the highest, but undoubtedly the most beautiful criterium in the world. This is bike racing, but not as you know it.

Riviera Gravel #4 – L’Estérel The Route des Cols has been a badly kept secret amongst the other sporting disciplines that practice their follies in the Estérel national park. With a name like that, surely it's a road cyclist's heaven? Col de Théoule, Col des Trayas, Col de la Cadière, Col des Trois Termes, Col des Suvières, Col de l'Aire de l'Olivier, Col de l'Essuyadou, Col du Mistral, Col du Baldou, Col du Perthus. It's quite a mouthful. And it's all on gravel. Green forests, red gravel, blue skies. The Estérel Massif is a car-free playground sandwiched between the Mediterranean and the limestone rock of Provence. It was once part of Africa, hence why you can find the 'Notre-Dame Afrique' statue in these hills - a memorial to fallen African comrades. When you arrive in the middle folds of the park it for sure feels 'other-worldly' - a stark contrast to the coast and the more alpine mountains to the east and north of Nice. The start of the ride is in Théoule-sur-Mer, some 42km from Nice. The loop is nearly 65km so it might be better to take a train to get there. It's worth it. From Théoule there is a quick hop over to the Port de la Rague, before turning right off the bord de mer and on to the gravel Piste de la Cadière, where the initial slopes have some steep ramps. As the name and list of cols suggests, the loop is one roller coaster of ups and downs and criss-crosses of the carrefours of the forest double tracks. For visitors, it is definitely best to download and follow a GPS file. As part of the national operation of the Esterel forest, there are two maisons forestiere where the officers responsible for maintenance of the surrounding beauty are based. There is also a sign warning visitors to 'Beware Of Alligators'. At the time of writing no alligators have been encountered in the area surrounding the maison. The forest service tends to Mediterranean pine, chestnut, hornbeam, fig and olive trees. Mixed in with the traditional mimosa, contrasted against imported tropical friends like the eucalyptus from Australia it's a real escape into nature. That plant life needs protected from what can be extreme heat in the middle of summer. Combined with the mistral, the risk is such that fires are prohibited all year round. In July and August you must check the notifications published by the emergency services before entering the park. Descending past the lakes to the southern part of the loop, glimpses of the sparkling Med may tempt you back the coast and there are always options to exit the park's west side. Stay on the loop and the aptly-named Piste Castelli leads east back towards Théoule. A rare flat and fast section takes you back east towards the Col du Mistral, which leads to the Col de Baladou, which leads to the Col des Suvières back to the Maison Forestiere. The route really does live up to its name. Once you've climbed back past the Maison Forestiere Trois Termes all that is left is a ridgeline ride past the Rocher des Monges and a descent back to the sea for a a dip, maybe an apéro, and the train back to Nice. Unless, of course, you have enough left in the tank to ride. Read more about the unbeaten tracks that surround Nice in our Riviera Gravel series. THE ROUTE

WHERE TO RIDE FROM NICE – DURANUS & SAINT BLAISE Take the cycle path from Nice and then at Saint Laurent du Var take up the Var valley cycle path. It climbs slowly to where the Var, Tinée and Vésubie river gorges meet. You’re heading up the Vésubie, a remote and beautiful deep river gorge with barely any traffic. At Utelle, take a sharp right and be astounded as you climb high above the road you were on up the valley side. At Duranus is the Saut des Français, where in the 18th century local resistance fighters from the County of Nice forced French soldiers to jump to their deaths. It’s over 200m down. From Levens you take a right and head through the beautiful villages of Saint Blaise and Aspremont, before descending the Col de Bast into Nice. Turn this into an epic ride by climbing to the Madone d’Utelle chapel, 900m above the village. The Alpine panorama is worth the effort! key kit Mauricette Jacket. The balcony road to Duranus is in a deep gorge with many shadows. Take a packable jacket, especially if adding the option of Madone d'Utelle where the weather of the different valleys can converge and cause surprise storms. VIEW THE JERSEY RIDE INSIGHTS Ride in the back country around Nice, and one of the constant reference points is the chapel of the Madone d’Utelle. It dominates the Var valley at the confluence of the Esteron and the Tinée and according to legend we owe its presence to Spanish sailors. READ MORE 1 - THE ROUTE DOWNLOAD GPX Please login or create an account to download file. 2 - RENT AND RIDE Travel light and book your bike. We offer a range of rental bikes, the R5 Cervelo road bike and the Aspero Cervelo gravel bike along with titanium road bikes from French marque Leon. Each bike is complete with pedals, tool bag and rear light while, if needed, each rental can also include Specialized shoes and helmet. VIEW OUR RENTAL BIKES 3 - THE CAFÉ Located on the Old Port, our café is the prefect pre and post-ride meeting place. With some routes that begin almost outside, excellent coffee and a full range of our clothing collections for men and women. There are weekly rides as well if you’d like to discover riding on the Cote D’Azur with like minded companions. You can find us at: 16 Quai des Docks 06300 Nice other rides When the ville of Nice decided to use #nicecyclingparadise to promote the grand depart of the 2020 Tour de France, there was definite method in the madness. If Paradise Lost has over ten thousand lines of verse, this cycling paradise found has almost as many routes, roads, stretches, views, climbs, cols, lacets, stops and starting points. Enough at least to satisfy even the most discerning cyclist. NISSA ALL-ROAD Linking two classic Alpes-Maritimes cols via a gravel ridge-line ride on a loop that takes you from portside to the heart of the mountains and back again. VIEW THE RIDE MONT CHAUVE Mont Chauve, known as Nice’s ‘bald mountain’, proves that nature constructed one of the best viewpoints the city has to offer. VIEW THE RIDE BONETTE Join the climb directly from the village and get ready for a day of zero flat riding by climbing and descending both sides of the mountain,. VIEW THE RIDE Braus & Turini Time to get serious. A ride that includes two of the majestic cols from our Montagnes a la Carte series and typical of what makes riding from Nice such an intoxicating mixture of pleasure and pain. VIEW THE RIDE Gilette & Bonson The extraordinary back country of Nice opens up behind the coast and this ride provides easy access. Enough climbing to be a challenge without being too daunting. VIEW THE RIDE Éze & Madone One of the classic rides of the region, which takes in two legendary climbs and hits you with a 10% slope right at the start. Ride out from our Café in Nice, take on the challenge and return to claim your badges. VIEW THE RIDE Mortola Ride a portion of the famous F1 Grand Prix course in Monte Carlo, and then climb out towards Menton, the last town in France, and over the border. It may be short but it includes two countries and into one principality. VIEW THE RIDE Vence It includes a col from our Montaignes a la Carte series as well as unforgettable views and a route away from the madding crowds. Climb the side of the Var valley and over to the pretty artists’ town of Vence itself. VIEW THE RIDE ESTEREL & ADRETS The Esterel coast road starting from Théoule-sur-Mer is beautiful, winding through secluded coves and up and down into pretty village ports. VIEW THE RIDE CAP D'ANTIBES A Cote d’Azur roll-out that hugs the sea and arrives at one of the region’s most well-known towns. VIEW THE RIDE Our Badges To celebrate the local climbs and the roads we ride, we created a badge for each of our local cols, collected together in our Montagne à la Carte series. After that we raised our eyes and we added badges for some of the world's iconic climbs, creating our Montagnes du Monde series. Ride the climb and claim the badge. From Col d'Eze on our doorstep to Alpe d’Huez, Wuling, Koppenberg and beyond. HOW TO CLAIM A BADGE

Mont Ventoux: Nos montagnes à la carte #6 When Napoleon wanted to construct the best naval fleet in the world, he naturally went for the toughest wood, and that came from Mont Ventoux. In 1967, a wind speed of 320km/h was recorded at the top, the strongest ever recorded in France. However, you don’t need a 20m-high antenna attached to a meteorological observatory to know that the top of Ventoux is windy – or that any tree that dared to grow near the summit would have to be extraordinarily tenacious and hardy. Such intuition and tactical nous were characteristic of the great Corsican commander, but in truth, this solitary Provençal peak, which is scoured by the icy Mistral wind, was known for its wood far before that. People have been cutting it down, according to historical sources, since the 13th century when custody of the mountain was given to the village of Bédoin by the lord who owned it. That was around the time that the Italian poet Petrarch climbed to the top. He claimed, having done so, to be the first person since antiquity to climb a mountain purely to see the view – and the view from the top is spectacular. Though geologically part of the Alps, Ventoux stands more or less alone, unencumbered by mountains of equal stature. Just a couple of kilometres from Ventoux’s summit is the Col des Tempêtes, a narrow ridge that affords great vistas over the mountains of the Luberon and the Vaucluse, the pre-Alps to the east, Cévennes to the west, and the vast plains of the Rhone and the Camargue towards the Mediterranean Sea. Ventoux was once known for its charcoal – another major factor in its deforestation – and is now famous for its truffles, its lavender, and the wine (the Côtes du Ventoux) that is made in its shadow. Even though it is in the heart of Provence, where summer temperatures soar to the high 30s, the mountain is snowbound for much of the year. In the 17th and 18th centuries the trade in Ventoux ice thrived, with locals piling ice in shady nooks and then selling it – to make sorbets, chill fish or preserve cadavers – through the spring and summer months. But for cyclists, it is the forest and its lack for which Ventoux is known. There are three ascents by road (and a hidden fourth, a rocky track), which take riders through the hot, heavy and oppressive woods before thrusting them into the glare of the upper slopes. Because, you see, the deforestation and the wind have over the centuries combined to sweep all the topsoil away, leaving only a dazzling white limestone rock, broken into jagged chunks by repeated frosts and thaws. This is the ‘lunar’ landscape that since 1950 has made, and in a couple of notable cases – the tragedy of Tommy Simpson, the earlier collapse of Jean Malléjac – broken, the Tour de France’s stars. Let us be clear: the road to Ventoux does not go anywhere and there is no reason to climb it by bike, except for the simple fact of its existence. It exists only as a challenge, the ultimate mirror, says cycling philosopher Paul Fournel, in which riders, stripped bare, confront not only the grandeur of nature but also their essential selves. Perhaps this is why the legend of Ventoux endures, and new chapters keep being written. Read more about where we ride and our local climbs in our Montagnes à la Carte series. Or visit us in Nice and experience them for yourself. Photography : Greg Annandale Words : Max Leonard NOS MONTAGNES À LA CARTE MADONE D’UTELLE Madone d’Utelle, sitting on a bluff that dominates the Var valley at the confluence of the Esteron and the Tinée, is a fixed point of navigation. VIEW MORE Col de la Bonette Claimed to be the highest paved road in Europe, true or not it is perhaps the least of its attractions. VIEW MORE Col de Tende If you like getting off the beaten track, you will like the Col de Tende. VIEW MORE Col de la Madone It’s a dramatic start to arrive in Menton and climb immediately from sea level, Col de la Madone is famed as a training hill for the pros. VIEW MORE Col de Turini The thick forests of the Col de Turini are testament to the unpredictable weather the highest of the coastal climbs near our home town of Nice. VIEW MORE Col de Braus Find the point on Col de Braus where René Vietto, one of cycling’s greatest ever climbers, broke away to win his first professional race. VIEW MORE Col de Vence The Col de Vence lies at 962m, above the bustling town of Vence and if you can tear your eyes off your stem, you’ll enjoy the stunning view. VIEW MORE Mont Vial Mont Vial, standing at the confluence of the Tinée, Esteron and Var valleys, where the three rivers combine. VIEW MORE Col de Brouis For the people of Breil-sur-Roya before the Second World War, the Col de Brouis was a lifeline. It was the only route for them to the rest of France. VIEW MORE Mont Chauve Mont Chauve is Nice’s hidden mountain. It is hiding in plain sight, sitting there just to the north, right above the city, but nevertheless it is hidden VIEW MORE

Take Me To The River #1 : Les Gorges Du Loup Houses or apartments with swimming pools on the Côte d’Azur are hard to find and hard to afford. For many the swimming pool is the Med. But when La Fournaise - the heat of high summer - arrives, even the azur ocean water can lose the freshness required to cool down adequately. The solution for some of the region’s inhabitants to escape the intense heat is to head into the folds of l’arrière-pays and swim in the luminescent, mineral-filled fresh water of the rivers that flow through the valleys. Their locations are not secret, but mostly a case of ‘if you know, you know’. (Sometimes when cycling you will pass a line of 10 to 15 cars parked in a random location and wonder if there is a birthday party or funeral nearby.) Nor is the  internet overly helpful in providing information about the spots. You must look at an actual map. Once you do, you’ll start to trace the many blue lines of the rivers that spring from the heights of the Alpes-Maritimes. Remember, this is where the mountains meet the Med. The Aigue Blanche, the Bévéra, the Bouyon, the Ésteron, the Gorodolasque, the Loup, the Maglia, the Roya, the Siagne, the Vésubie. Wikipedia lists 38 rivers in total for the region. Finding your spot is one thing. Getting there is, of course, another. Unless you’re a cyclist who’s already out in the arrière pays. Cycling in La Fournaise is a question of lightweight kit but when hot becomes too hot, stopping for a dip is a perfect way not only to cool down but also to drink in the beauty of the surroundings. Having dipped our toes in a few tributaries, we wanted to know more so we asked some local cyclists to take us to their favourite places to climb off, strip off (within reason), and dive in. Manon Hubert and Florent Icard were the first to volunteer. When not working in the mountain resort of Auron, they descend to Cagnes-sur-Mer just west of Nice and are always packing in as much riding as possible between the winter ski and summer mountain bike seasons up above. In the high summer many cyclists located west of the Var river (the major one that flows into the Med beside Nice airport) go north via the Vallon Rouge, which begins at Colle-sur-Loup. This road traces the path of our first river, Le Loup. The high valley sides of the Vallon Rouge provide shade and shelter from the sun. It’s not only a nice gradual false flat of a climb, it’s also where Manon and Flo, without planning it, often find friends riding there at the same time. At the top of the Vallon Rouge is Pont-du-Loup. Just before entering the small hamlet, the road forks right to Les Gorges du Loup. It’s on the Nice Ironman route, so relatively well known in the triathlon world. But those guys have already had their swim and they are on the clock. Not so Manon and Flo. If they want to get a decent amount of training done, Flo and Manon first go north to Tourettes-sur-Loup and Gréolieres les Neiges before descending back through Cipières to the gorge itself. But after the work is done they find their spot just north east of Bar-sur-Loup. To access the best pools you must climb a little, so MTB shoes or an alternative is needed. The effort is rewarded with a choice of multiple pools with rocks ranging from two to eight meters high from which to launch yourself. Launching themselves whilst canyoning with friends is how Manon and Flo found their spot below the D6 road that winds its way parallel with the river. Once the initial adrenalin of the jump and the cold water subsides, what is best is to sit with only the noise of the river and look up towards the mountains and let the freshness wash over you. Manon and Flo aren’t necessarily the best at sitting still though. Manon is a keen fly-fisher and often carries her kit to try and hook a trout or two when the season is right. This river is a seasonal solution to feed hers and Flo’s addiction to outdoor life. The added bonus of their location, once dried off and re-mounted on bikes is to descend back to Pont-du-Loup to the famous Confiserie Florian. Find something for your sweet-tooth before the run back to the coast to dry off your maillot de bain and look on the map for the next swim hole destination. Laura and Amandine are now available to be taken to the river, or wherever you happen to be diving in. See the full swim collection here. Or simply check out our series of Take Me To The River swim holes.

WHERE TO RIDE FROM NICE – THE ESTEREL & ADRETS This route takes you into the Esterel national park west of Cannes. Take a train to Cannes and ride out along the sandy beach – or, if you want a long (160km) ride, simply head out along the cycle path from Nice. The Esterel coast road starting from Théoule-sur-Mer is beautiful, winding through secluded coves and up and down into pretty village ports. Just before Saint Raphaël head north and into the red-rocked hills, and then descend from Les Adrets, famous for its mimosa flowers in the winter, back towards Cannes. key kit Micheline Jersey. Known as the Corniche d'Or, the gold coast from Mandelieu to St Raphaël is hot in summer. Take a Micheline made with mesh to harness the sea breeze. VIEW THE JERSEY RIDE INSIGHTS The famous climb to Tanneron is known by local cyclists as ‘La Montée du Grand Duc’, the Grand Duc being the forest which was infected with yellow after mimosa trees were first imported and planted here in the late 19th century. READ MORE 1 - THE ROUTE DOWNLOAD GPX Please login or create an account to download file. 2 - RENT AND RIDE Travel light and book your bike. We offer a range of rental bikes, the R5 Cervelo road bike and the Aspero Cervelo gravel bike along with titanium road bikes from French marque Leon. Each bike is complete with pedals, tool bag and rear light while, if needed, each rental can also include Specialized shoes and helmet. VIEW OUR RENTAL BIKES 3 - THE CAFÉ Located on the Old Port, our café is the prefect pre and post-ride meeting place. With some routes that begin almost outside, excellent coffee and a full range of our clothing collections for men and women. There are weekly rides as well if you’d like to discover riding on the Cote D’Azur with like minded companions. You can find us at: 16 Quai des Docks 06300 Nice other rides When the ville of Nice decided to use #nicecyclingparadise to promote the grand depart of the 2020 Tour de France, there was definite method in the madness. If Paradise Lost has over ten thousand lines of verse, this cycling paradise found has almost as many routes, roads, stretches, views, climbs, cols, lacets, stops and starting points. Enough at least to satisfy even the most discerning cyclist. NISSA ALL-ROAD Linking two classic Alpes-Maritimes cols via a gravel ridge-line ride on a loop that takes you from portside to the heart of the mountains and back again. VIEW THE RIDE MONT CHAUVE Mont Chauve, known as Nice’s ‘bald mountain’, proves that nature constructed one of the best viewpoints the city has to offer. VIEW THE RIDE BONETTE Join the climb directly from the village and get ready for a day of zero flat riding by climbing and descending both sides of the mountain,. VIEW THE RIDE Cap d'Antibes A classic Cote d’Azur roll-out that hugs the sea heading west and arrives at one of the region’s most well-known towns. Ideal out of season when the heat is lowered and the town itself is quiet. VIEW THE RIDE Gilette & Bonson The extraordinary back country of Nice opens up behind the coast and this ride provides easy access. Enough climbing to be a challenge without being too daunting. VIEW THE RIDE Éze & Madone One of the classic rides of the region, which takes in two legendary climbs and hits you with a 10% slope right at the start. Ride out from our Café in Nice, take on the challenge and return to claim your badges. VIEW THE RIDE Mortola Ride a portion of the famous F1 Grand Prix course in Monte Carlo, and then climb out towards Menton, the last town in France, and over the border. It may be short but it includes two countries and into one principality. VIEW THE RIDE Vence Unforgettable views and a route away from the madding crowds. Climb the side of the Var valley and over to the pretty artists’ town of Vence itself. VIEW THE RIDE BRAUS & TURINI A ride that includes two of the majestic cols from our Montaignes a la Carte series. VIEW THE RIDE DURANUS & SAINT BLAISE Head up the valley to where three rivers meet, climb higher still and take the time to look around. VIEW THE RIDE Our Badges To celebrate the local climbs and the roads we ride, we created a badge for each of our local cols, collected together in our Montagne à la Carte series. After that we raised our eyes and we added badges for some of the world's iconic climbs, creating our Montagnes du Monde series. Ride the climb and claim the badge. From Col d'Eze on our doorstep to Sa Calobra, Mount Fuji, Mount Baldy and beyond. HOW TO CLAIM A BADGE

Fête des Zinzins #2 Zinzin : Qui est bizarre, un peu fou // Someone who is peculiar or strange, a bit crazy… The Brevet des Zinzins is a challenge of three : climbing each side of the Col de Turini in one day. The second edition of the Fête des Zinzins, a group attack on the Brevet, was the story of another trilogy. A trio of crashes... Laura Barralis is in only her second year of riding and she is in the process of falling down the bicycling rabbit hole. Misfortune came for Laura on the day before the Fête des Zinzins. An incident on the Promenade des Anglais cycle path with a young girl on a bike meant she took a trip over the bars. The result was road rash from chin to toe and bumps and bruises down her left side. In other words, not enough to dampen her motivation to complete her biggest ride to date. Chris Grulich is a Parisian-born, Louisiana-bred, Niçois-based young gun who, like Laura, is in the throes of a new obsession. Before arriving in Nice, he was an IT student, a fashion model and a bike messenger in Paris (another altogether different but nonetheless notable trio…). He’s been savoring all the Alpes-Maritimes has to offer, and just one week before completed the Mercantour GranFondo which delivers up 190kms and 4,600m of elevation and tops out on the Col de la Bonette. Zinzins should therefore have been relatively easy. Until gravel came up and bit him on the descent to Sospel after the first climb of the day. James Hayden is one of the biggest names in long distance, ultra endurance cycling. His mantra is ‘pushing limits’. The Fête des Zinzins was scheduled as the perfect mid-season ‘training’ ride for him as part of his build-up to the Silk Road Mountain Race. Unfortunately, three weeks before his date with Turini, he attacked a river crossing during the Highland Trail 550 and his front wheel met its limit against some rocks. Flying over the bars, he banged his right knee in the process. As a result of his crash, James sustained a knee injury that at the time wasn’t thought to be serious but such is his ability to endure and the extremity of his competition, post-event diagnosis revealed more damage than originally suspected. Not one to avoid a challenge he lined up with the 20-odd other Zinzins at the Café to attack the Brevet on the longest day of the year. We’d secretly hoped for a record time for the L’Escarène, Sospel, Bollène-Vésubie parcours. However as the 27kms of the first ascent through Lucéram and Peïra-Cava ticked by it became obvious today was not the day. Instead James would watch others test their long-distance metal from the support car. Laura might be new to the game, but she has acquired experience quickly. She seeks to save energy as much as possible on the first climb and is not fooled into following faster wheels. Talking with her about her biking activities thus far it’s clear she’s serious about her adventures. Two weeks previously she climbed two sides of Ventoux from Bédoin and Malaucène with her parents and friends. Last summer she did Les Trois Cols – Cayolle, Allos and Col des Champs, each of them topping out above 2,000m – also with her parents. Evidently, it’s in the genes. But for Laura part of the fun is in the companionship and feeding off the energy of others. On the second time up from Sospel the objective was to stay with a group. That she did until the final 5km in the forest where the gradient simply does not let up and she lost the wheel in front. After that, the rhythm and power in her legs began to evaporate. But she’s a psychiatric nurse so presumably, or should we say – evidently, she knows how to play the mental game when the going gets tough. Meanwhile Chris was in a different battle. He’d flown up the first climb, meeting and riding with Ivan, a local rider who successfully completed the first edition of the Fête des Zinzins last year. Full of endorphins, adrenalin and youthful enthusiasm after obtaining the first stamp in the Hotel des Trois Valées on the Col, they pointed their noses downwards. Just 4km into the descent, roadworks led to an unusual amount of gravel on the road and before he knew it Chris was on the deck. His fashion sensibilities from his time in Paris and a certain element of sentimentality had led to his choice of blue tone Café du Cycliste kit. The Toile de Jouy design of Valentine reminded him of the same style he’d seen in his grand-mother’s bedroom back in New Orleans. Unfortunately, his cycling jersey and Marinette bib shorts were now more aerated than originally intended. However, it could have been a lot worse. Chris had set out with one objective today and he was going to finish it, blood or no blood. A true Zinzin. The other Zinzins had already verified their arrival at Sospel and were quietly going about their business on the second ascent. Pierre comes up with crazy rides across the Alpes-Maritimes and beyond every weekend, so this is just one more to add to his yearly Strava statistics. Somewhat frustratingly, he makes it look easy alongside Nico, another two-time Zinzin. Just like Matthieu, our Audax man from Marseille. He taps out a rhythm with amazing souplesse alongside his partner in crime and long-distance newcomer, Simon. Others like Thierry and Valentin are returning to complete unfinished business from last year with a steadier rhythm and riding and chatting with others like Laura to help make each 100m of elevation gain that bit easier. It’s acknowledged by almost all Zinzins that the second climb from Sospel is the hardest so the food and cold Oranginas waiting at the top (after Brevet cards are stamped, of course) are more than welcome. The Zinzin community spirit is strong and questions and discussions are mostly of concern for Chris who, having been patched up by the first aid kit from behind the Brasserie’s comptoir in Sospel, is somewhere down below. Tackling the toughest side, nursing a badly gashed elbow and a fair amount of road rash, in the midday heat must have been… an experience. But it’s a free world and an open brevet. So those at the front remount and head down to the third and final base town. On the bounce at Bollène-Vèsubie apparently not one café or brasserie is open to stamp brevet cards. Matthieu shows his long-distance experience and somehow enters the Marie (the town hall) to make him and Simon the only ones with a 100% stamp rate. Laura finds her rhythm with Valentin. They shoot the breeze and turn the pedals. Others crank up the pace and there are duos and trios of riders scattered up and down the climb like ants. Two-thirds of the way up the climb a blue and white flash comes down the hill. It’s Chris, followed by his partner for the day, Ivan. Some might have been disheartened to see the rest of the group at near completion of the route. Not Chris, he had nothing but energy and excitement to complete the third side. Laura makes it to the top and shares hugs and high-fives with the rest of the riders beside the fountain. Finally, after all those hours of suffering she shows the first signs of the effort - she is shaking, hopefully from excitement but presumably also with fatigue. But her smile is from ear to ear and she is ‘très contente’. Julien is first to the top to avenge last year’s two-side effort. The salty sweat stains make his all black jersey Zebra-esque. It was impressive watching his effort and will to make it to the Col for a third and final time. Whilst Brevet cards are now full (at least, Simon and Matthieu’s are) the job is not done. In keeping with the Zinzin spirit, there is of course the 50km return to Nice still left on the agenda. The group roll back down to the Café together for a well-earned pizza party. The Café porter bike has never carried such a brilliant delivery. Stories from the day are shared and the newer challenges are discussed over beers, because for Zinzins it’s all about the next big thing. Laura wants to ride both sides of the Col de la Bonette in one day. Then someone mentions the 7 Majeurs. The sky is literally the limit for some. And then, the sound of freewheels stops the conversation. Chris and Ivan arrive to break up the party. The group erupts into a round of applause. People want to hug Chris, but because of his injuries they can’t. He recounts getting stung by a wasp right on his road-rashed shoulder on the third ascent. He considers going to hospital but takes a beer instead. It’s a La Chouffe – 8%, a bit like certain parts of the Turini’s slopes, and therefore hopefully with the desired anesthetic effects. The group is complete again and mention is made of next year’s Fête. It’s three weeks before the Tour de France will scale Turini. We wonder if some of the peloton might want to join us. Photography : Ian S Walton

Col de la Madone: Nos montagnes à la carte #5 It’s a dramatic start to arrive in Menton and climb immediately from sea level. Menton, also known as La Perle de France, is famous for its gardens and its lemons – the latter such a growth industry in the warm micro-climate of the bay and foothills behind that the taxes levied by the former ruling Monagasque government were one of the main reasons why the town to separated itself from its Riviera neighbour in 1848. Famed as a training hill, exactly where the pros commence their battle with the clock on the ‘classic’ start is a constant cause of debate. But those without the pressure of power meters and heart rate statistics usually prefer the ‘beach’ start. It mounts the hill with the sharp gradients of Corniche des serres de la Madone which immediately plunges you into a series of hairpins through vine trees that help make the town famous for its gardens and greenery. And it links you to the road from Gorbio, which is appropriate given that the real name of the climb, unbeknownst to many, is the Col de la Madone de Gorbio. The route from Gorbio links the two starts together, and from the junction where they meet the autoroute comes into view. Those who began on the classic route will have already wound their way around the giant stilts of the motorway – a stark concrete statement of modernisim and an undeniable feat of engineering that traverses the five different valleys between Gorbio on the western side and the eastern Garavan side of Menton. Once past the autoroute, the village of Saint-Agnes eventually appears between the craggy outcrops. One of the ‘plus beux villages’ of France, it’s named after the Italian princess who took shelter from a coastal storm whilst praying to the patron saint that shared her name. Once the storm had blown itself out she followed through on her promise to build a sanctuary in her saviour’s honour – much like the Spanish sailors did on Madone d’Utelle. Madonna has to be thanked for these sanctuaries with great cycling roads leading to them. Tucked away at the front of the butte on which Saint-Agnès is perched is the 80m ‘Gros Ouverage de Saint-Agnès’ that forms part of the Alpine or ‘Little Maginot Line’ – the lesser-known southern Alps defence structures which were initiated in the 1920s by the French government in response to Mussolini’s threats to reclaim Nice (parallel to their northern counterparts built to protect against German invasion). If you want a break from climbing the bunker’s strategic position affords you a view of the entire bay below and of the border and Italian coastline to the left and east. Locals still tell of 9 French soldiers resisting no less than 5,000 Italian opponents over a 10 day onslaught in the Battle of La Pont Saint-Louis. When they finally had to accede to the Italians, the door of the outpost was locked and the key given to the French soldiers as a mark of respect. Rumour has it that the barrier has never been repainted due to the amount of Italian blood that was spilt on it. These days, thankfully, the only gunshots come from the sanglier hunters that often take to the hills behind and above Saint-Agnès. It is in the wildness of the last 5kms where you’ll find herds of goats blocking the road, usually just after the three tunnels chiselled through the hard rock. On the final approach to the summit the antennae on the western peak gives a perspective of the last 200m elevation to be gained and the small deserted hut after a sharp left hander indicates the start of the final kilometre. Against the clock, Froome and Porte have taken on the mantle from Armstrong and Rominger and Porte finally admitted last year to breaking the 30minute barrier prior to the 2013 Tour. Us mere mortals should be happy to duck under almost twice that time for an ascent from the beach start. Whatever the number, a successful summit is rewarded with a view towards Peille and the higher mountains with Madone being a gateway Col that unlocks the door to a whole host of other climbs and routes in the Alpes Maritimes. It also allows for a moments contemplation at the monument made out of old artillery shells and shrapnel and inscribed “Combat de l’homme, éclats d’obus, désormais ne soyez plus que Madone de la paix” - “Battles of men, shards of shells, from now on you are no more than a Madonna of peace” Read more about where we ride and our local climbs in our Montagnes à la Carte series. Or visit us in Nice and experience them for yourself. Photography : Greg Annandale Words : Max Leonard NOS MONTAGNES À LA CARTE Madone d’Utelle Madone d’Utelle, sitting on a bluff that dominates the Var valley at the confluence of the Esteron and the Tinée, is a fixed point of navigation. VIEW MORE Col de la Bonette Claimed to be the highest paved road in Europe, true or not it is perhaps the least of its attractions. VIEW MORE Col de Tende If you like getting off the beaten track, you will like the Col de Tende. VIEW MORE Mont Ventoux When Napoleon wanted to construct the best naval fleet, he went for the toughest wood, coming from Mont Ventoux. VIEW MORE Col de Turini The thick forests of the Col de Turini are testament to the unpredictable weather the highest of the coastal climbs near our home town of Nice. VIEW MORE Col de Vence The Col de Vence lies at 962m, above the bustling town of Vence and if you can tear your eyes off your stem, you’ll enjoy the stunning view. VIEW MORE Mont Vial Mont Vial, standing at the confluence of the Tinée, Esteron and Var valleys, where the three rivers combine. VIEW MORE Col de Brouis For the people of Breil-sur-Roya before the Second World War, the Col de Brouis was a lifeline. It was the only route for them to the rest of France. VIEW MORE Mont Chauve Mont Chauve is Nice’s hidden mountain. It is hiding in plain sight, sitting there just to the north, right above the city, but nevertheless it is hidden VIEW MORE

Riviera Gravel #3 – Sospel – Chemin de Paraïs – Col de Braus The Col de Braus is one of the most iconic climbs anywhere in cycling, even if its racing history is less than illustrious. The series of switchbacks nestling on its western slopes are the stuff of postcards, maybe the most photographed corners anywhere in cycling (at least in the Alpes-Maritimes). Not only are they a perfect ribbon of asphalt draped across the mountainside, but you can look down on them from above - a surprisingly rare thing amongst mountain passes. Yet Braus has a dark side. Winding its way up the eastern face of the mountain is a gravel gem that gets overlooked for it's more glamorous, tarmac sister. Climbing up from Sospel the Chemin de Paraïs is not marked or sign posted - if you didn't know it was there you would likely never find it, which makes it that little bit more special. Sospel has had a tumultuous military history, the mountains around the village are littered with forts and ruins from several thousand years of conflict as it was pulled back and forth between Nice and Ventimiglia, France and Italy, Occitania and Savoie. The Paraïs piste is relic from these conflicts, originally cut as a military access road. At the time it was built, the cannon was at the forefront of military technology, yet the horse was still the main mode of transport. That meant that military roads had to maintain a gradient of less than 8%, as otherwise the horses could not get the canons up them. Today that makes for steady, consistent climb - although it is a full 2km shorter than climbing up by the road, so while it may not vary, it rarely lets up either. You start the climb on the road to the Col de Turini, hanging a left at the maison du miel and climbing up through the houses of Quartier La Vasta. The piste itself starts at Sospel Mechanique and begins with a steady grade as you reach the first of the twelve switchbacks amidst the deciduous woodlands of the north-facing slopes. In the high summer these woods are a godsend, when the sun has turned the road climb into an oven-hot killing floor they offer some respite from the relentless heat. The fourth switchback takes you out onto the south-facing side of the valley, the vegetation changes from forest to scrub, the piste becomes deep with loose gravel and rock, the cool forest canopy is left behind and the gradient reaches the steepest of the whole. It only lasts for maybe half a kilometre, but the heat, the loose surface and the kick in gradient try their best to demoralise you with still another 5km to climb. If you are lucky and it has rained recently, the fifth switchback brings you back into the forest and greets you with the mountain torrent the runs down the heart of the valley - a perfect spot to cool down, if the summer hasn't left the stream barren and dry. From here the climb is steady, the gradient doesn't vary much and the surface tends to be less loose once more. On switchback six you can peel out and skirt round the face of the mountain to rejoin the road climb to the col, or you can stay in the woods and take the slightly longer climb to the Pas de l'Agree, some 50m above the Col de Braus, and descend to the col by the little singletrack through the sheep fields, rejoining the road at the back of the restaurant (if you don't feel up to singletrack, you can follow the road down to the col). From the col you have another choice - there is the easy option of taking the road back to Nice - some 40km, almost all of which are downhill - or you can stay on the gravel going by heading along the piste de Lavinia which runs north-south along the tops of the mountains towards St Agnes. It can be pretty hot and loose going in summer, there is nothing between you and the sun, but the gradient is much more mellow up here and you are rewarded by some of the best views down towards Nice. Col de Farguet marks the end of the gravel climbing. Through much of the year shepherds keep their flocks around here, which is dangerous business with the local wolf population. Defending from wolf attacks is hard going on the shepherds - they like to strike at 3am, which means sitting up all night on guard as the wolves have figured out how to outwit their dogs. So it's no wonder that when the wolves win a round the shepherds often express their anger by displaying the carcass as a protest. From Farguet you skirt the flank of the mountain and rejoin the road. There is just one, nasty kicker of a climb on the side of Mont Ours - a steep tarmac drag that is one last kick in the teeth before you start the descent. From there it is all downhill and you can follow the road down to Col de Banquettes and then Peille or St Agnes. Read more about the unbeaten tracks that surround Nice in our Riviera Gravel series. Footnotes: Photography & Text : Matt Wragg KOMOOT ROUTE

THE LUNCHTIME BOOM For those who have been in and around the Port and the Vieux Nice at noon, the shock will be memorable. When the clock strikes twelve the area surrounding the Parc du Château reverberates to the big bang. You hear it. But you do not see it. It’s called the Parc du Château. But there is no Château. It was destroyed by its own worst enemy, i.e. the French themselves. It was a citadel, a military bastion the origins of which started in the 11th century. In the 18th century it was owned by the Italian House of Savoy. The French took it back in 1705 and Louis XIV saw fit to destroy the castle the following year. The Château now is simply a seaside bosse, a rocky outcrop that separates the Port from the Baie des Anges, strewn with ancient relics to distract from the 360 degree panorama. It’s where tourists flock for a higher view of Nissa la Bella. Strategic voyeurism in a place previously used for military defence. The cannon was started to signal lunch time, an essential part of French daily life. But the cannon was not initiated by a Frenchman. A Scotsman, Lord Coventry to be precise, started what is now a strictly-adhered to niçois tradition. The Scottish Lord wanted to remind his wife that it was time to stop walking the promenade and eat. We like to think he was just adapting his Belle Epoque, winter staycation to the French mode de vie. The locals didn’t need a cannon, and they still don’t. The lunch break is a national culture - shops close, streets empty and brasseries hustle and bustle. It has has evolved as part of the population’s DNA over centuries. But in Nissa La Bella the cannon tradition stuck. So no chateaux and a French tradition reinvented by a Scotsman. At least there is still the cannon and its almighty boom across the bay. Rolled out each day by the modern-day military, stoked and fired on the tick of the last of the morning tocks to tell everyone it’s time to manger. Men of discipline, trained in armed combat and fitted out in crisp suits, proudly carrying on a centuries-old tradition. But there is no cannon. Philippe is a licensed fireworks expert. He wears trainers, jeans and a t-shirt and he has a friendly and familiar air about him. He’s more than happy to welcome us to firing of the cannon. The police were responsible for the firing of the ‘cannon’ up until 1992 when new legislation required certified pyrotechnics expert to be in charge. Enter Phillipe. The cannon is four launch tubes with a trigger wire, set-off by one of those square batteries you used to put in your remote control car. One single firework is projected into the air before banging like thunder. Since he started, Philippe has only missed the midday firing twice. Once because of an accident blocking the road, once because he got stuck in between protesting civil servants in Place Garibaldi, just below the château. He's been known to set it off an hour early on April Fool's Day. We take Philippe a Pan Bagnat, the specialist niçois sandwich (think of it effectively as a niçoise salad in a bread roll, drenched in olive oil) and we eat it amongst the tourists beside the Bellanda Tower that overlooks the Promenade des Anglais. They are totally unaware this is the man that just made them jump. And he's about to retire. That's sad but he assures 100% us the cannon will still fire. How is he so sure? His daughter will replace him. Details like the lunchtime cannon are what make Nissa niçois. The new Eglantine jersey proudly wears the Nissa La Bella badge on its sleeve. EGLANTINE FOR MEN EGLANTINE FOR WOMEN

WHERE TO RIDE FROM NICE – GILETTE & BONSON The cycle path on the western side of the Var river is an easy and flat route into the arrière pays, the deserted hinterland behind Nice; on each side, the climbs up to villages like Le Broc are challenging and fun, but this ride takes you right to the end of the cycle path, and into a short loop in the hills. Have a coke and an ice cream at a café in Gilette village square, high above the river while enjoying the views of snow-capped mountains, then carry on round to tiny Bonson. In the afternoons, the sea wind can make the return journey along the Var hard work, so if you don't mind another climb, take the road to Castagniers and descend the other side of the ridge into Nice. key kit Arm Warmers. In the early morning and during spring and autumn it can be cold in the Var valley. Take a pair of arm warmers to cut out the chill on the flat run towards the hills. VIEW THE WARMERS RIDE INSIGHTS If you want to extend the ride, go from Gilette to Toudon and then on to climb the steep slopes of Mont Vial. At the top is the weather station that resembles nothing if not a Bond villain’s lair. READ MORE 1 - THE ROUTE DOWNLOAD GPX Please login or create an account to download file. 2 - RENT AND RIDE Travel light and book your bike. We offer a range of rental bikes, the R5 Cervelo road bike and the Aspero Cervelo gravel bike along with titanium road bikes from French marque Leon. Each bike is complete with pedals, tool bag and rear light while, if needed, each rental can also include Specialized shoes and helmet. VIEW OUR RENTAL BIKES 3 - THE CAFÉ Located on the Old Port, our café is the prefect pre and post-ride meeting place. With some routes that begin almost outside, excellent coffee and a full range of our clothing collections for men and women. There are weekly rides as well if you’d like to discover riding on the Cote D’Azur with like minded companions. You can find us at: 16 Quai des Docks 06300 Nice other rides When the ville of Nice decided to use #nicecyclingparadise to promote the grand depart of the 2020 Tour de France, there was definite method in the madness. If Paradise Lost has over ten thousand lines of verse, this cycling paradise found has almost as many routes, roads, stretches, views, climbs, cols, lacets, stops and starting points. Enough at least to satisfy even the most discerning cyclist. NISSA ALL-ROAD Linking two classic Alpes-Maritimes cols via a gravel ridge-line ride on a loop that takes you from portside to the heart of the mountains and back again. VIEW THE RIDE MONT CHAUVE Mont Chauve, known as Nice’s ‘bald mountain’, proves that nature constructed one of the best viewpoints the city has to offer. VIEW THE RIDE BONETTE Join the climb directly from the village and get ready for a day of zero flat riding by climbing and descending both sides of the mountain,. VIEW THE RIDE Duranus & Saint Blaise Head up the valley to where three rivers meet, climb higher still and take the time to look around. VIEW THE RIDE Braus & Turini Time to get serious. A ride that includes two of the majestic cols from our Montaignes a la Carte series and typical of what makes riding from Nice such an intoxicating mixture of pleasure and pain. VIEW THE RIDE Éze & Madone One of the classic rides of the region, which takes in two legendary climbs and hits you with a 10% slope right at the start. Ride out from our Café in Nice, take on the challenge and return to claim your badges. VIEW THE RIDE Mortola Ride a portion of the famous F1 Grand Prix course in Monte Carlo, and then climb out towards Menton, the last town in France, and over the border. It may be short but it includes two countries and into one principality. VIEW THE RIDE Vence It includes a col from our Montaignes a la Carte series as well as unforgettable views and a route away from the madding crowds. Climb the side of the Var valley and over to the pretty artists’ town of Vence itself. VIEW THE RIDE ESTEREL & ADRETS The Esterel coast road starting from Théoule-sur-Mer is beautiful, winding through secluded coves and up and down into pretty village ports. VIEW THE RIDE CAP D'ANTIBES A Cote d’Azur roll-out that hugs the sea and arrives at one of the region’s most well-known towns. VIEW THE RIDE Our Badges To celebrate the local climbs and the roads we ride, we created a badge for each of our local cols, collected together in our Montagne à la Carte series. Ride the climb and claim the badge. Not technically included in this ride, Mont Vial can be added to the route for those whose legs feel strong. HOW TO CLAIM A BADGE

DUE SOUTH The “DUE” series is symbolic. It’s an invention, a good excuse, a perfect justification. It’s the beginning of the longer rides that will mutiply as the summer comes. It’s the time to get the bodies re-acclimatised to riding more than 200kms day after day. To test new kit, new accessories and new bike set-ups in real-world conditions. Essential experimentation before the big events like Born To Ride, the TCR or North Cap 4000 that Matthieu and Sophie have in their Audax agendas. It’s the time for old friends to reunite and assume their roles – like Gregory – chief joker of the pack. Sophie, a recent recruit to the long distance world, begins the journey in the role of ‘stagaire’, in search of the refinement long distance requires, like the balance between a fully-loaded bike and multiple days with substantial elevation. She’ll finish the ride converted to ‘Ninja’ status. It’s a great excuse to link the Café du Cycliste hubs, to bring to the foreign posts a bit of our French DNA. After having exported the gallic flair to London last year, it’s time to hit the road to Mallorca. The wind. More specifically the headwind. It was inevitable. The wind is the biggest joker when it’s in your face. It takes pleasure in doing its best to stop you going in whatever direction you point your wheels. The continental route plotted from Nice forms a big circular arc to Barcelona where the ferry awaits. The big question from the start was whether the wind would be on our side. Answer : no. We did our best to avoid and fight the gale force winds predicted by Météo France with pizza stops and chocolate eclairs. Friends from Arles came to lend a wheel to follow to get us to the Camargue. But the wind never stops, even when we reach the bumps and humps that must be overcome to pass through into Spain. Each evening we find a shelter, a hotel, a bench. And there is always a bar to celebrate another day accomplished and to numb any small pains resulting from the time in the sadldle. The road passes beneath our wheels, the local customs change, the décor evolves, the language becomes strange and the jokes come thick and fast. Sunrises blur into sunsets, colours explode, the night is intoxicating and its kilometres are like a suspension. All the ingredients are there and they are an essential to maintain motivation and build memories. Arriving in Barcelona it is all smiles, especially as we get an escort by Sami Sauri. It marks a new stage in the journey. The long days on the fastest roads and the cycle paths are finished, to be replaced with the small steep byways of The Island. Before boarding the ferry, finding a bar to celebrate the end of the Continental Leg comes as second nature. From the map of the Island we had decided to disembark at Alcúdia in the north east so we could take the entire length of the north coast, pass over Sa Calobra and link together the smaller seaside Cols on the way to Palma. At 4am the port is deserted. We take out our bivvies for a few hours extra sleep before breakfast and the attack on the second part of our journey to Café du Cycliste in Palma. When the Island wakes, we understand better its topography. It’s full of cyclists; they are everywhere. Their preferred style is definitely on the performance side and so our bike-packing set-up and pace stands out like a sore thumb. We sense a few mocking smiles and a few cyclists completely ignore us. But once the road rises up things change completely. When the hard roads begin we receive the approval of everyone, enquiries on what we are doing and sometimes incomprehension at our ability to climb at their pace whilst fully loaded. Sa Calobra. The nickname of the Col del Reis is like some sort of exclamation ! Which is appropriate. Everything is bigger. The view is amazing. The hairpins are totally beautiful. The way the road loops itself on the mountainside is, frankly, extravagant. The number of cyclists is almost haunting. For us that is fine. We’ve ridden the hard days to get to this col and we feel good to be here. We wanted to stay and camp in the cove but it’s a safe haven for tourists. So it’s back up the climb to find a village off the beaten track. On The Island it’s important to know how to share the space with the other visitors. It would be stupid to think this jewel in the Mediterranean could be kept a secret. You have to divert your attention from the tourist cars and find the places where they are few and far between, where you can instead enjoy the sumtouous curves of the smaller (but perfectly laid) roads. Take the time at lunch to observe, to discover Plan B is quite often a much better option than Plan A. After one day of experimenting we found what we came searching for – a different way of existing and enjoying the road and The Island. Another rhythm. And so we rolled into Palma at a slower pace. The final sequence was perfect : the rolling coastal route, the flat roads lined with palm trees, the smiles of the tourists and the warm welcome at Café du Cycliste was an ideal ending to this particular 1,000km escapade. The restaurants, the bars, the friendships. The season has begun. Footnotes: Photography : Matthieu Lifschitz & Sophie Gateau

L'ARRIÈRE-PAYS Behind the coast, the yin to the Riviera's yang is the back country where it's possible to get lost and lonesome, with or without two-wheels. Go explore.

Col d’Èze: Nos montagnes à la carte #4 The Chateau d’Èze, which sits atop the picture perfect village of Èze, was built over 400 years ago, and from its windows lucky guests – it is now a luxury hotel – can look out over the Italianate medieval village of Èze itself, and up to the mountains or down to the sparkling blue sea below. But King Kelly isn’t here High above Èze amid the pines is the Fort de la Revère, which was built in the 19th century to guard against an Italian invasion. From this ridge there is a commanding view of the Mediterranean and, behind, the snowy peaks of the Alpes-Maritimes. But King Kelly isn’t here either. Between Èze village and the fort runs the Route de la Grande Corniche, the highest of the three corniche roads that lead from Nice towards Monaco and Italy. Starting almost at the Café, it takes you steeply out of town, past villas and under palm trees, winding up through the hills to a height of 507m. And it’s here, in a dusty car park opposite an hostelry at the Col d’Èze that you can find King Kelly – in spirit at least. Sean Kelly won the Paris-Nice race seven years in a row, from 1982 to 1988; each year it finished with a time trial from Nice up to the Col; and in five of those seven years, King Kelly won the time trial, and the race, at the finish line just on a level with this car park. These days several riders have gone faster than him: his course record of 19’45” was beaten by Bradley Wiggins in 2012 and later by Richie Porte too. But the climb is still Kelly’s. And when you climb, escaping the noise and the bustle of central Nice, think of Kelly, the Irishman who ruled the Côte d’Azur – and aim for a time of under half an hour. Read more about where we ride and our local climbs in our Montagnes à la Carte series. Or visit us in Nice and experience them for yourself. Photographer : Greg AnnandaleWords : Max Leonard NOS MONTAGNES À LA CARTE Madone d’Utelle Sitting on a bluff that dominates the Var valley at the confluence of the Esteron and the Tinée, is a fixed point of navigation. VIEW MORE Col de la Bonette Claimed to be the highest paved road in Europe, true or not it is perhaps the least of its attractions. VIEW MORE Col de Tende If you like getting off the beaten track, you will like the Col de Tende. VIEW MORE Col de la Madone It’s a dramatic start to arrive in Menton and climb immediately from sea level, Col de la Madone is famed as a training hill for the pros. VIEW MORE Mont Ventoux When Napoleon wanted to construct the best naval fleet, he went for the toughest wood, coming from Mont Ventoux. VIEW MORE Col de Turini The thick forests of the Col de Turini are testament to the unpredictable weather the highest of the coastal climbs near our home town of Nice. VIEW MORE Col de Braus Find the point on Col de Braus where René Vietto, one of cycling’s greatest ever climbers, broke away to win his first professional race. VIEW MORE Col de Vence The Col de Vence lies at 962m, above the bustling town of Vence and if you can tear your eyes off your stem, you’ll enjoy the stunning view. VIEW MORE Mont Vial Mont Vial, standing at the confluence of the Tinée, Esteron and Var valleys, where the three rivers combine. VIEW MORE Col de Brouis For the people of Breil-sur-Roya before the Second World War, the Col de Brouis was a lifeline. It was the only route for them to the rest of France. VIEW MORE Mont Chauve Mont Chauve is Nice’s hidden mountain. It is hiding in plain sight, sitting there just to the north, right above the city, but nevertheless it is hidden VIEW MORE

Riviera Gravel #2 – La Turbie, Fort de la Revère From the beautiful perched village of La Turbie, down to the contrasting modernism of the concrete based autoroute and its péage, back into nature and reversing through time to the ancient fort on top of the mountain. Riviera Gravel #2 is in effect an extension of Riviera Gravel #1. Past Col d'Eze and along the Grande Corniche is the town of La Turbie where Roman ruins sit beside medieval churches which sit beside baroque villas. The fountain in the middle of town is a honey pot for cyclists who have climbed the 658m from the bord de mer to this perched village. Not many of them leave the fountain to climb the Chemin de Simboula up to the Fort de la Revère. CHEMIN DE SIMBOULA Initially the most remarkable feature of this gravel climb is that you start beside the A8 autoroute toll bridge. But it's a feelgood factor to turn your back on the cars and point your nose to the sky on the Chemin de Simboula. It's named after the military battery that is built on and in the summit of the Cime de la Forna and it starts with relatively smooth double track gravel. However, before long the gradient kicks up for the middle part of the climb - nearly 2kms at 8% on gravel is a good challenge. Look across the valley and you can see the Sanctuary of Laghet, where the spirit of the Virgin Mary is said to have manifested herself in the 15th Century in healing the sick, reforming prisoners and performing various other miracles. It is still a place of pilgrimage. But to see the light from the Chemin de Simboula you must reach the summit. The double track at the top of the climb splits. Go right for a view of the Alpes-Maritimes behind and circle around the back of the Fort de la Revère. This is the over-ground obvious military installation that was last used as a prison during WW2. In front is a panoramic view of the Côte d'Azur, Italy to the left, the Esterel national park to the right. As beautiful as that is, the best part of this ride is to the left. This may not be an independent assessment, but the two kilometers of old military road that awaits is one of the most spectacular bits of gravel you can find in Europe. Follow the signs for 'PAI 9 La Fourna' and you commence the front side of the Chemin de Simboula which leads to the actual military construction hidden in the rocks. These are hard to notice because attention is split between the spectacular gravel balcony road that clings to the cliff, the tunnels through the rocks and the mediterranean view to the right. Unfortunately this road is now a dead end. As La Turbie comes back into view over the rocky horizon, the way back down to the Grande Corniche is via a crumbling set of switchbacks which have been deemed unsafe for passage. But that is perfectly acceptable as turning round and riding the chemin in the reverse direction gives another chance to appreciate its magnificence from a different angle. Stop, take pictures, have a drink, have lunch. Whatever it is, take time to appreciate the view and the fact that a different discipline of cycling can give great gifts. Read more about the unbeaten tracks that surround Nice in our Riviera Gravel series. KOMOOT ROUTE

WHERE TO RIDE FROM NICE – MORTOLA Pretend you're James Bond on a bike as you spin along the Basse Corniche out of Nice towards Monaco, cliffs to your left, sparkling sea to your right. Ride a portion of the famous F1 Grand Prix course in Monte Carlo, and then climb out towards Menton, the last town in France, and over the border into Italy. A short loop takes you off the main road, up a lush Italian valley and then home the way you came. Alternatively you can extend the ride to Dolceacqua for a proper Italian coffee in a picturesque riverside village. Either way, Monte Carlo can be congested during rush hour, so keep your eyes open. key kit Sunglasses. Cruising the coast like James Bond? Stylish sunglasses cut out the glare from the Med and allow you to stare at the local residents politely on the traverse of Monaco. VIEW THE GLASSES RIDE INSIGHTS Use this ride to scope out the start of the Col de la Madone, which begins in Menton. A town which is known as La Perle de France and is famous for its gardens and its lemons. READ MORE 1 - THE ROUTE DOWNLOAD GPX Please login or create an account to download file. 2 - RENT AND RIDE Travel light and book your bike. We offer a range of rental bikes, the R5 Cervelo road bike and the Aspero Cervelo gravel bike along with titanium road bikes from French marque Leon. Each bike is complete with pedals, tool bag and rear light while, if needed, each rental can also include Specialized shoes and helmet. VIEW OUR RENTAL BIKES 3 - THE CAFÉ Located on the Old Port, our café is the prefect pre and post-ride meeting place. With some routes that begin almost outside, excellent coffee and a full range of our clothing collections for men and women. There are weekly rides as well if you’d like to discover riding on the Cote D’Azur with like minded companions. You can find us at: 16 Quai des Docks 06300 Nice other rides When the ville of Nice decided to use #nicecyclingparadise to promote the grand depart of the 2020 Tour de France, there was definite method in the madness. If Paradise Lost has over ten thousand lines of verse, this cycling paradise found has almost as many routes, roads, stretches, views, climbs, cols, lacets, stops and starting points. Enough at least to satisfy even the most discerning cyclist. NISSA ALL-ROAD Linking two classic Alpes-Maritimes cols via a gravel ridge-line ride on a loop that takes you from portside to the heart of the mountains and back again. VIEW THE RIDE MONT CHAUVE Mont Chauve, known as Nice’s ‘bald mountain’, proves that nature constructed one of the best viewpoints the city has to offer. VIEW THE RIDE BONETTE Join the climb directly from the village and get ready for a day of zero flat riding by climbing and descending both sides of the mountain,. VIEW THE RIDE Duranus & Saint Blaise Head up the valley to where three rivers meet, climb higher still and take the time to look around. For those who are looking for some serious up, take in the Madone d’Utelle, from our Montaignes a la Carte series. VIEW THE RIDE Gilette & Bonson The extraordinary back country of Nice opens up behind the coast and this ride provides easy access. Enough climbing to be a challenge without being too daunting. VIEW THE RIDE Éze & Madone One of the classic rides of the region, which takes in two legendary climbs and hits you with a 10% slope right at the start. Ride out from our Café in Nice, take on the challenge and return to claim your badges. VIEW THE RIDE Braus & Turini Time to get serious. A ride that includes two of the majestic cols from our Montaignes a la Carte series and typical of what makes riding from Nice such an intoxicating mixture of pleasure and pain. VIEW THE RIDE Vence It includes a col from our Montaignes a la Carte series as well as unforgettable views and a route away from the madding crowds. Climb the side of the Var valley and over to the pretty artists’ town of Vence itself. VIEW THE RIDE ESTEREL & ADRETS The Esterel coast road starting from Théoule-sur-Mer is beautiful, winding through secluded coves and up and down into pretty village ports. VIEW THE RIDE CAP D'ANTIBES A Cote d’Azur roll-out that hugs the sea and arrives at one of the region’s most well-known towns. VIEW THE RIDE Our Badges To celebrate the local climbs and the roads we ride, we created a badge for each of our local cols, collected together in our Montagne à la Carte series. After that we raised our eyes and we added badges for some of the world's iconic climbs, creating our Montagnes du Monde series. Ride the climb and claim the badge. From Col d'Eze on our doorstep to Sa Calobra, Mount Fuji, Mount Baldy and beyond. HOW TO CLAIM A BADGE

Col de Tende: Nos montagnes à la carte #3 Alpe d’Huez famously has 21 switchbacks, hairpins, or lacets - call them what you want. The Passo dello Stelvio has 48 on the classic, much-photographed eastern side, but that’s in 16.5kms and all on tarmac. The Col de Tende manages the same number in 7.4kms and, actually, if you turn right off the main road just over 1km before the Tende tunnel, you can add 17 more to make a dizzying total of 65 about turns. Plus the last 4kms are on gravel. If you like getting off the beaten track, you will like the Col de Tende It’s easy to see from pictures that the Col de Tende is something worth fighting over. Only 40 kilometres from the sea as the crow flies, it was used by Ligurian tribes in Roman times who established the settlement at Tende. The town grew rich and powerful controlling the pass in the Middle Ages, since it was key to the salt trade between the coast and the noblemen of Savoy. The House of Savoy was one of the oldest and most powerful royal families in Europe, who had ruled the Alps from Turin since the start of the 11th century. The salt came from the Camargue and Hyères along the coast, and was one of the most precious commodities of its age – so valuable, in fact, that in the 18th century the salt route became the first paved road in the Alps. In its heyday, it’s estimated that more than 55,000 mules worked the Route du Sel, also known as the Via del Sale (or the Real Strada, the Royal Route), and those muleteers in Tende were known to be the strongest. For good reason. At the end of the Roya valley, the col road ascends an almost vertical wall of rock, to 1871m, where the col and the Italian border now lie. After Italy came into being, in the 19th century, more than a thousand Italian troops lived at the barracks and manned the forts at the top. And in the Second World War, the whole valley was fortified with concrete bunkers, gun positions and pillboxes, pointing westwards into France. Now, the whole valley is quiet, and feels something like a no-mans-land. Tende has belonged to France since 1947, but still feels like a place apart. Locals still tend the terraced fields above the dead-end villages, and animal herders still graze their flocks in the mountain pastures under the Vallée des Merveilles, the Valley of Marvels, where there are thousands of engravings left behind by a Bronze Age bull-worshipping cult. The local dialect is called Tendasque, and at the local shepherd’s festivals there is more Italian produce on show than French. The spaghetti loops of the col road are quiet now too. The 3km-long Tende tunnel was built in 1882, taking all the traffic away from the top part of the road. So for the adventuring cyclist, it’s the perfect escape. Read more about where we ride and our local climbs in our Montagnes à la Carte series. Or visit us in Nice and experience them for yourself. Photography : Greg Annandale Words : Max Leonard Nos montagnes à la carte Madone d’Utelle Madone d’Utelle, sitting on a bluff that dominates the Var valley at the confluence of the Esteron and the Tinée, is a fixed point of navigation. VIEW MORE Col de la Bonette Claimed to be the highest paved road in Europe, true or not it is perhaps the least of its attractions. VIEW MORE Col de la Madone It’s a dramatic start to arrive in Menton and climb immediately from sea level, Col de la Madone is famed as a training hill for the pros. VIEW MORE Mont Ventoux When Napoleon wanted to construct the best naval fleet, he went for the toughest wood, coming from Mont Ventoux. VIEW MORE Col de Turini The thick forests of the Col de Turini are testament to the unpredictable weather the highest of the coastal climbs near our home town of Nice. VIEW MORE Col de Braus Find the point on Col de Braus where René Vietto, one of cycling’s greatest ever climbers, broke away to win his first professional race. VIEW MORE Col de Vence The Col de Vence lies at 962m, above the bustling town of Vence and if you can tear your eyes off your stem, you’ll enjoy the stunning view. VIEW MORE Mont Vial Mont Vial, standing at the confluence of the Tinée, Esteron and Var valleys, where the three rivers combine. VIEW MORE Col de Brouis For the people of Breil-sur-Roya before the Second World War, the Col de Brouis was a lifeline. It was the only route for them to the rest of France. VIEW MORE Mont Chauve Mont Chauve is Nice’s hidden mountain. It is hiding in plain sight, sitting there just to the north, right above the city, but nevertheless it is hidden VIEW MORE

Riviera Gravel #1 - Vinaigrier, Col d'Èze, Plateau de la Justice It's about time we let the secret out of the bag. Where We Ride has a second playground, a second cycling paradise, a second option to explore. Yes, the roads of l'arrière pays are mostly car-free, but if you really want to get away from it all, gravel is your friend. So we are opening up another world and inviting you to come and adventure the Alpes-Maritimes via our gravel guide extraordinaire, starting with a surprisingly quick and close option. This is Riviera Gravel. THE EZE LUNCHTIME LOOP To be able to climb a classic like Col d'Eze by gravel in a desk-escaping lunchtime ride is special. From the Café it's a climb-fest right out of the box but the fun starts almost immediately. Mont Boron is five minutes away but its quiet roads and views of Villefranche bay make it an instant escape from the city. Instead of following the road we take the paths to get into adventure mode early. There are many different pistes cut between the trees in Mont Boron but it's a rocky outcrop so choose yours wisely (or follow our route via the link at the bottom of this page). This is the most fun way to arrive at the Col de Villefranche on the moyenne corniche that takes the traffic towards Eze village itself. VINAIGRIERThe route traverses the moyenne corniche at Col de Villefranche which sits at 149m. Taking the left towards Parc de Vinaigrier, there is gravel to be found in between the villas. It's alley-cat riding but not as you know it. To arrive at the actual parc, you must porter up a flight of stairs where you'll find a water fountain which can be helpful in the hot summer days. The famous niçois writer, Louis Nucéra, wrote of the Parc du Vinaigrier, 'la Beauté qui se voulait éternelle' - the eternal beauty that we search for. The tracks start on the west side of the mountain before a sharp right and steep climb as they cut their way through the terraced olive grove, past the bee keepers and towards the Eze Observatory. Apparently the parc is an Italian - Provençal combination born a long time ago whose beauty was deserving of protection and maintenance by the local authorities. A great start, in other words, to a challenging bike ride. LA ROUTE STRATEGIQUEAfter dropping out on to the tarmac of the Grande Corniche, it's a quick liaison to the Col des Quatre Chemins and a left turn to find the Route Stratégique. This is the golden section of this ride. As it's name suggests, it's a military road leading to the forts that lie above. It hangs on to the northern side of Mont Leuze and the Plateau de la Justice and stretches for nearly 2.5km at an average gradient of 6%. That begins to bite as there is a flat section in the middle and the road gets steeper and rougher towards the finish. But the beauty of this road is the sense of engineering that the outside wall gives, combined with the double-track gravel below which is nearly always without other people on it when you ride. And, of course, the view to the left of the higher mountains of the Mercantour National Park can inspire you to bigger longer rides. To emerge from behind the Hôtel Hermitage and arrive at the Col brings a certain smug satisfaction. From here there are options. You can turn right and climb further up to the Plateau de la Justice and find another two kilometres of gravel round to the top Mont Leuze before the descent to Nice, with stunning views over the Baie des Anges. Alternatively you can turn left and ride the road to La Turbie to add our next gravel climb to Fort de la Revère. Read more about the unbeaten tracks that surround Nice in our Riviera Gravel series. KOMOOT ROUTE

Col de la Bonette: Nos montagnes à la carte #2 Don’t look too hard at the Bonette’s claim – seen on signposts the length of the ascent from Jausiers in the north and from Saint-Étienne-de-Tinée in the south – that it is the highest road in Europe. There are a few paved roads that are higher. And it’s only the highest inter-valley route (ie, the highest road that actually goes anywhere) if you accept that the Cime de la Bonette loop around the mountain’s peak, above the col, is not cheating. Look instead at the Tinée river, which you follow up to where it is but a tumble of clear water flowing through a high valley to rival in beauty any further north in the Alps. Look at the white pinpricks of the tiny Alpine daisies in the meadows that, for a few short weeks after the snow’s retreat, lose their ochre colour and blasted demeanour and turn the most intense, celebratory acid green. Look at the sheep following their shepherds across the folds of the mountain above the tree line. Stand for a moment on the top of the cime, that dark pyramid with its 15% slopes that rip any remaining air out of your lungs, and then walk to the very top. There, at 2,859m, you’ll see the painted panorama naming each peak around you, and you can listen to the bells of the flocks on either side of the dividing ridge, those on one side dwelling in the high Alps, and on the other in the lower pastures towards the Mediterranean. Look at the remains of the grand forts that guard this ribbon of Tarmac, and imagine the life of the soldiers up here in the winter - when they would throw planks between the roofs of the barracks to create tunnel walkways under the thick snow above, and winch up their supplies from Bousiéyas, a hamlet hundreds of metres below. The Bonette road was built by Napoleon III when Nice and its surrounding county were ceded to the French by the Italians, in 1860. By pledging to create this Route Impériale, the Frenchman was making a statement that he would protect Nice, a jewel on the azure waters of the Mediterranean, and not let this part of the world be menaced by the Italians any more. Then look at the concrete hulks of the Second World War bunkers that also guard the road and the passes towards the border, and realise that one man’s determination can only last so long, and that the life of a mountain is almost infinitely longer. Find, if you can, the secret road to the Col de la Moutière, and take the tough gravel track from the Moutière to the top. Then descend back into the world of heat and scent where you’ll find the best pizza in the world waiting for you.. And there you’ll realise, if it hadn’t struck you already, that this is one of the best climbs in the Alps, of whatever height, and that the prodigious altitude just gives you longer to appreciate its charms. Read more about where we ride and our local climbs in our Montagnes à la Carte series. Or visit us in Nice and experience them for yourself. Photography : Greg AnnandaleWords : Max Leonard NOS MONTAGNES À LA CARTE Madone d’Utelle Sitting on a bluff that dominates the Var valley at the confluence of the Esteron and the Tinée, is a fixed point of navigation. VIEW MORE Col de Tende If you like getting off the beaten track, you will like the Col de Tende. VIEW MORE Col de la Madone It’s a dramatic start to arrive in Menton and climb immediately from sea level, Col de la Madone is famed as a training hill for the pros. VIEW MORE Mont Ventoux When Napoleon wanted to construct the best naval fleet, he went for the toughest wood, coming from Mont Ventoux. VIEW MORE Col de Turini The thick forests of the Col de Turini are testament to the unpredictable weather the highest of the coastal climbs near our home town of Nice. VIEW MORE Col de Braus Find the point on Col de Braus where René Vietto, one of cycling’s greatest ever climbers, broke away to win his first professional race. VIEW MORE Col de Vence The Col de Vence lies at 962m, above the bustling town of Vence and if you can tear your eyes off your stem, you’ll enjoy the stunning view. VIEW MORE Mont Vial Mont Vial, standing at the confluence of the Tinée, Esteron and Var valleys, where the three rivers combine. VIEW MORE Col de Brouis For the people of Breil-sur-Roya before the Second World War, the Col de Brouis was a lifeline. It was the only route for them to the rest of France. VIEW MORE Mont Chauve Mont Chauve is Nice’s hidden mountain. It is hiding in plain sight, sitting there just to the north, right above the city, but nevertheless it is hidden VIEW MORE