ROTM APRIL 2023

RIDE OF THE MONTH | JEROME COUSIN AND MONT MACARON

It’s officially spring, the clocks have swung forward and the Port of Nice is waking up. Bleary-eyed deckhands scrub and polish the big yachts, and little painted dinghies bob gently. Jérôme Cousin, espresso in hand, is discussing his love for ‘slower’ riding since he stepped out of the pro peloton last year. Three Tours de France and a stage winner of the Paris-Nice 2018, this veteran of the world’s toughest sport has the relaxed demeanour of a retired pirate. It’s fitting that he lives on the Riviera, close to the water. ‘Now I have time to look around more when I ride, discover the views, the people, the wildlife.’

The objective of today’s ride, accompanied by Café du Cycliste creative scouts Hugo and Thomas, is to do a reconnaissance of a route for his new bicycle travel company, Baroudeur. Along with his ex-teammate and fellow Tour de France stalwart, Pierrre Rolland, Jérôme is beginning a new chapter in his career. The two former champions will soon be launching their first tours, offering routes throughout France and beyond, in order to discover the world’s most beautiful cycling terrain. They will begin close to home, inviting riders to enjoy their shared expertise of the Côte d'Azur and the region’s best trails, climbs and places to explore.

On the menu for today is a loop into the Niçoise hinterland, 65km with 1600m of elevation on mixed terrain, cresting at Mont Macaron and the ruins of the Col de Châteauneuf-Villevieille. Although the sun is hidden by the clouds (only to be revealed at the end of the course), the weather is mild: no wind, and no rain on the horizon. Everything is ready, everyone is caffeinated. Away we go.

The first bump of the day leaving the Port is our old friend (and sometimes foe), Mont Boron. A classic rise for the Café du Cycliste lunch rides, and the view of the city of Nice and Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat is splendid. We tackle the Parc du Vinaigrier and encounter the first sections of trails, before arriving at the top of the Col des Quatre Chemins, well known to those who’ve competed in or followed the route of Paris-Nice (it is located halfway up the Col d'Eze, where Tadej Pogačar recently stole to victory in the latest edition of the Race to the Sun).

A short descent into the valley, then a few flat kilometres, before attacking the main treat of the day, Mont-Macaron. A climb of 8km at an 8% average gradient, with testing straits and a series of switchbacks, all on stony ground, this is no delicacy, it requires a big appetite and energetic legs.

We stop halfway up the slope for a few selfies with some cute-looking sheep, and to enjoy the view of the turquoise sea on one side and the Mercantour peaks still dusted with snow on the other. We tread on up to the top for a short descent to the ruins of the Châteauneuf-Villevieille pass, a typical beauty spot for hikers, gravel lovers and photographers.

The clouds still blanket us above, and suddenly we hear thunder… No, we’re mistaken, it’s the sound of our collective stomachs rumbling. A sweet sandwich or two (maybe some local macarons) would have been welcome at this juncture, but we will wait to have our lunch on the terrace back in Nice.

The true descent of the pass is very fast, and the road in perfect condition, then another five kms on smooth tarmac. If only every climb could be like this. This rising false flat, swallowed at full speed, takes us towards Levens, and the third section of gravel for the day.

We have now completed 40 kilometres and we are heading gently back towards Nice, this undulating course alternates between dirt and sand tracks. It’s beautiful. The landscapes are stunning, especially when we know that we are just a few clicks away from the city and its 343,000 inhabitants. What’s more satisfying is that we find ourselves still in the throes of nature, away from the hubbub of the metropolis with its buildings, noise and traffic.

A final ascent on a paved section, near the village of Aspremont, allows us to access the last gravel sector of the day. We give everything we have left in the tank on this final bump of two kilometres at 8%, where sand and dirt make progress even more tricky.

After this last challenge, we arrive halfway up the slope of Mont Chauve before we begin a long descent back into Nice. We whizz through the beautiful districts of Rimiez and Cimiez and return suddenly to our starting point, the Café du Cycliste in the Port of Nice. Then it’s off to the first restaurant we find for a well-deserved pasta dish.

Ride of the Month: May

May is the season of the markets in Provence, where a cornucopia of open air stalls appear each week in most towns and villages.

Ride of the Month: September

A 1300m climb to explore the wild animal reserve of the Monts d’Azur and ride the thrilling descent down the other side, through tunnels cut in the rock.

Ride of The Month: July

The Col de Vence is an unforgiving climb, renowned for it's desert-like landscape, beautiful views of the Mediterrean Sea and the absence of an escape from the blazing sun.

Ride of The Month: May

Heading for the foothills of Grasse, and its Rose de Mai. Flowers in full bloom and early season climbs combine to produce a beautiful spring ride.