Ride of the Month January 2022

Ride of the month: “Le Saut des Français”

Exiting Nice from the north side, this ride provides a healthy mélange of architectural and natural landmarks, with a side of local legend. The route leads up into the mountains without any particularly challenging climbs, before wrapping things up with a peaceful descent back down to Nice.

Highlights include an artificial waterfall overlooking the bay and an infamous cliff hugging the side of the Vesubie valley.

After navigating the way up through Nice Nord, pass under the motorway to find yourself at the foot of the mountains. The first port of call on the winding road is the Cascade de Gairaut, an artificial waterfall built in the 19th century to mark the introduction of the Vesubie canal. The waterfall was designed to oxygenate the drinking water that passes down into the city, or into your bidon. With the smooth sound of cascading water in your ears, enjoy the splendid view of the “ Baie des Anges”.

The route then flows up towards the eccentric abode of a local favourite. Ben Vautier, known simply as Ben, is a Nice-based artist whose signature handwriting can be seen scrawled across tram stations and even public toilets all over Nice. He is most famous for his scrawlings, often brief meditations on life such as ‘Il faut manger. Il faut dormir.’

His main residence does not disappoint. Standing proudly against the rolling green hills, it resembles a giant haywire papier-mâché. A mishmash of hundreds of colourful pieces are plastered across the front of his house, featuring lone bike wheels, various handwritten slogans, and other sculptural curiosities.

Leaving the chaotic beauty of modern art behind, snake around the foot of Mont Chauve, passing a constant stream of houses nestled into the side of the mountain. Follow the road until you reach Aspremont. Ruins are all that is left of the château that once defended this village. However, the view from them over the Var towards Antibes is magnificent.

Continue along the meandering mountain road until you approach the medieval village of Levens. The number of cars will begin to thin out significantly, allowing you to ascend the gentle climb without any great difficulty. The village itself features a charming bell tower sitting atop a rocky outcrop, overlooking both the Var and Vesubie river valleys.

The traditional homes and cobblestone streets that wind down from the top of the hill are waiting to be explored and provide the perfect backdrop for a quick coffee or ice cream break.

Picking up again and heading further into the mountains, you will pass through Duranus. Upon leaving the village, you will find yourself on the side of a spectacular cliff, now the subject of a local legend. In 1792, Nice was not yet French. Faced with French republican troops trying to flee the region, local resistance fighters from the County of Nice formed a militia named the Barbets.

Captured prisoners were made to jump over 200m to their deaths into the Vesubie valley. The cliff has since taken on the eerie name the Saut des Français. This section is best tackled in the afternoon when the route, etched into the steep rocky face, is bathed in sunlight.

Once you hit Béringuier, take a left and begin the smooth descent towards the Var. Returning to civilisation, a bike lane allows you to spin south at pace, providing the wind is on your side. Once you hit Saint-Laurent du Var, follow the cycle lane along the water’s edge and take the Promenade des Anglais as your victory lap as you return to the centre of Nice.

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