BIKING NICE AT BENICE

Back in January, I received a call from Alex about an event they wanted to launch. I knew it would be the kind of event I would enjoy. I met his crew from Valencia last year, and I couldn't be more grateful to the bikepacking community we are building in Spain and around the globe. When I started traveling by bike some years ago, I never expected this incredible feeling of belonging – no matter where you are, you always feel close to your ‘tribe’.
These guys from Valencia were my tribe.

BeNice was introduced to me with a mix of joy and doubt, knowing it involved a risky decision: investing not only money but also a significant amount of work on an inclusive event, in their free time outside their jobs. It wasn't an easy decision, but people were always asking how they could join the gatherings we’ve had over the last few years around Spain. I was eager to enjoy the event from the moment I first heard about it.

June came quicker than I expected, and soon enough, the event was here. From Bilbao to Valencia is just over 600 kilometres, but there are some differences in climate and the character of the people. I love that in one country there is so much diversity. BeNice not only brought together people from these two regions but also from various parts of Spain and Europe. We had our most international member, Sara, who came from her native Scotland, and Iñigo, who lives in Brussels. The rest of us came from Andalusia, Aragon, Madrid, and other parts of Spain. Some of us already knew each other; others didn't. The mission of the event was to bring together more members and create a small community.

On the first day of BeNice, on our way to our basecamp Alex says to me "Now is your time. We have already enjoyed creating this." The basecamp, Mas de Cotanda, was a few hours away from Valencia. A masía or mas is a type of rural construction common in the eastern regions of Spain and derives from the Latin word mansus, meaning "country house". These historical buildings have been central to agricultural life for centuries, serving as family residences, farms, and production centers. Beyond their function as simple rural structures, masías symbolise a deep connection to the land and local communities. Mas de Cotanda offerz incredible views of the Sierra de la Batalla and the adjacent massifs. This area is part of what is commonly known as la España Vacía (Empty Spain). This term describes the depopulation and ageing of many rural areas in Spain, the migration to large cities and the abandonment of rural regions.

Arrived on bicycles or in vans or cars we were happy to meet familiar faces and pleased to discover some new ones ! The magic of BeNice was bringing together people beyond our small community of cycling friends. Almost sixty people gathered in front of Alex and Will, who explained the basic rules.

We immediately began discussing which route we would choose for Friday - Alex and Will planned 8 differents routes with various difficulity levels - as well as our anticipation for dinner and the delicious food being prepared in the kitchen. The incredible aroma of baked vegetables made our stomachs growl even more.

The first dinner gave us a wonderful preview of the incredible vegan recipes we would enjoy over the next few days. Leek cream, curried tofu, hummus with various ingredients, and excellent coffee were just a few of the breakfast, lunch, and dinner combinations. Hooray for the cooks!

Some slept in tents, others in vans, and the rest in the rooms of the Mas. We woke up to sunshine and a bit of morning freshness after a rainy and stormy night.

We started the day with a yoga session led by Cris from Surya Bikepacking. Cris's class was enjoyable, interesting, energising, and relaxing, giving us the opportunity to stretch our stiff bodies after the humid night. A delicious breakfast followed, bringing with it the first BeNice connections at the long table outside the house.

The first departures are starting. I joined the group on the route 7, because it was one of the longest and most demanding routes, leading to a deserted town, La Estrella.

After dressing in some of the clothes from the new Café du Cycliste collection, I prepared my bike with food, snacks, and enough water for the 79 kilometres and 1,500 metres of elevation gain ahead of us. We had the whole day ahead and needed to return by 6:30 p.m. We shared the start with route 4, which the organizers had designed to take the most direct paths with the least elevation gain to reach the town of Mosqueruela. To avoid the road entirely before reaching the town, they included a small stretch of path. The first section was rideable, but it soon became rougher, and more than one person had to dismount and walk for a short distance. The downside of this route was the lack of water points, shops, or bars to refuel or buy food at. We passed by farmhouses and skirted gentle hills before beginning the descent to the Monleón River and the Estrella neighborhood

Reaching La Estrella was special. We had high expectations for this place because we had heard many stories locals. Martín and Sinforosa had been the only inhabitants of the remote village of La Estrella for over thirty years, but the only residents today are the cats that Martín and Sinforosa cared for.

After a lunch break, we had to climb a few kilometres and some steep slopes to leave the Monleón River and reach the Vistabella plain, then head back to the camp.

After dodging some mud, we arrived back at the Masía with big smiles on our faces and exhausted bodies. The large group had divided into two, so we gathered to share experiences before Juan's talk. Juan has been dealing with multiple health issues all his life. He has been a long-distance racer against the tumours forming in his digestive system as well as a real ultra-marathoner, and a long-distance cyclist. An incredible person, we were honoured to hear his experiences as he presented his book, Vacío (Empty)!

We woke up early to light rain and a grey day – this wasn't pleasant news for us, but it would be beneficial for the area – but Cris managed to brighten it up with the first asanas of the day. After breakfast, we geared up for Saturday’s adventure: tackling route number 5. A group set off to explore the slopes of the Vistabella plain. This place was truly a delight to experience.

Following a section of the GR7, we crossed several farmhouses nestled between the Sierra de Boi and the depths of the Monleón River, eventually reaching the San Bartolomé Hermitage. With origins tracing back to the Templars, at the foot of Boi Castle, it offered a unique and beautiful balcony with views of the town of Culla.

After climbing back up to the Vistabella plain, the trail led us directly to the town centre, where we replenished our energy at one of its bars and a pastry shop, nearly emptying its shelves of sweets. Slightly soaked from the persistent rain and sugared up from the treats, we returned to the camp. After completing the second route, enjoying a hot shower and some snacks, it was my turn to speak. It was incredible to share my experiences surrounded by people with the same cycling vision, souls who understood the journey on wheels and sparked debates about today's world. I am still grateful to the organisation for this wonderful opportunity.

After a delicious dinner, it was time for the raffle drawing, with incredible prizes from all the brands that supported the event. Nervous and intrigued, we gathered in the main hall for the show. Some lucky winners walked away with up to three prizes!

Sunday arrived, bringing shorter routes to ensure we could savour the giant paella at 2 p.m. With a group of girls, we strolled around the Masía, stretching our legs and enjoying relaxed conversations. We didn't want to miss the paella or the chance to pack up camp early and air out the tent. Although the rain had stopped, the humidity lingered in the air.

Two large vegan paellas arrived at the table ahead of schedule, concluding a few days of connection and reconnection that wouldn’t have been possible without all the hard work by the BeNice team. Goodbyes are always bittersweet, but none of the organisers said no to a future reunion, so… see you in a few months! Thank you, thank you and thank you. Much love!

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