Ride of the Month October 2021

Storm Alex: The Resilience of the Hinterland

A year ago, on the 2nd October 2020, local authorities put Nice and its hinterland on red alert. Storm Alex, an Atlantic depression, was recategorized as a ‘volatile storm’ by weather reporters, which was heading towards the South of France. Schools in the area were closed for the day and businesses were asked to send their employees home. Nobody yet knew where and how the storm would hit.

The coast endured more destructive storms than usual, but it was the valleys in the hinterland around Nice, in France and in Italy, that paid the highest price and were indefinitely marred by the uncommonly violent weather event. 18 people died, hundreds of homes were washed away, roads were destroyed, bridges were torn apart, and the whole landscape was permanently altered.

To live in the back country is to choose a much harsher way of life than in urban areas. The economy there is fragile, it takes a long time to get around, supplies are harder to come by, comforts are very often limited to the bare minimum and access to technology for communicating is often unpredictable. Beyond the trauma that it caused, Storm Alex made daily life much more complicated for thousands of people – the majority of them became severely isolated.

In Roya valley, the roads were heavily impacted for months on end. The touristic train of Merveilles, which goes from Nice to Tende, became the lifeline of the valley overnight. In some villages and hamlets, lanes and pathways were the only accessible routes. One year on, this region is still trying to get back to normal life – the resilience of the valleys has been tested to its limits.

It’s October 2021, Chris is boarding the Merveilles train with his gravel bike, returning to the region a year after the storm. The aim of the day’s ride is to meet local residents and contemplate everything that is hopeful. After a two-hour journey alongside the mountain, the train arrives into Tende, just a few kilometres from the Italian border. There’s hustle and bustle in the little village bakery and the morning sun is just starting to shine into the alleyways – it’s going to be a beautiful day. On the menu today are two cols, Brouis and Braus, but that’s for later. Chris is using the first part of his day for a little detour around the village of La Brigue, where a chapel called Notre Dame des Fontaines miraculously survived last year’s floods. The parallel between Storm Alex and the history of this building is captivating. In the 12th century, very probably after an earthquake, the water sources in La Brigue dried up, leaving its inhabitants faced with the worrying situation of drought.

Villagers vowed to build a chapel dedicated to the Virgin Mary if water returned to its sources. The miracle came true, and the chapel was erected on the site where seven streams sprouted from the rocks. The phenomenon is clear for visitors to see today. The little church remained intact inside and out, even though it was built on the edge of one of the streams which was turned into a river on the night of the 2nd October 2020. Though it appears to be a modest building from the outside, the chapel conceals a priceless treasure inside. It’s like looking at a smaller version of the famous Sistine Chapel: the nave of the building is home to over 200m2 of paintings dating from the 15th century. With its 26 frescos depicting the Passion of Christ, one can familiarise themselves with the beliefs and superstitions of the time. Flawlessly preserved, although never renovated, these paintings, which use a technique particular to ‘distemper’ painting, have stood the test of time with incredible freshness, giving visitors an absolutely marvellous sight to behold.

The path which goes around the chapel is none other than the salt road, a superb gravel track on which we’ve already lingered, and where we’ll have to return. The fact remains that this little piece of road between Saint Dalmas de Tende and the chapel is bursting with intriguing things, enough to distract any curious rider: look out for the huge, abandoned lime kiln and the remarkable so-called Rooster Bridge. It would be a shame not to see them.

To access the two cols which lead back to Nice, one has to follow the Valley de la Roya road for about 15 kilometres. A year on, the sight is still horrifying. Despite the important reconstruction work already undertaken and the round-the-clock activity of the specialists working there, the scars from the storm are still obvious and they are proof of the power of water.

In Breil sur Roya, the road follows the col of Brouis. This place is testament to a different period in time – a monument dating from the Maginot Line stands here. The fort built on the col of Brouis consists of an artillery block which could station over 170 men, sent there to protect access to the col at the beginning of WW2.

Awaiting Christopher in Sospel is the final challenge of the day, the col of Braus. The last 800 metres of climbing feels like a formality. Following that, the road slopes downhill towards Escarène, and quickly leads back to the outskirts of Nice. The days ends at the Port, and then, Nice’s Old Town, after an emotionally and historically rich expedition.

THE MONTS D’AZUR

A 1300m climb to explore the wild animal reserve of the Monts d’Azur and ride the thrilling descent down the other side, through tunnels cut in the rock.

COL DE VENCE

An unforgiving climb, renowned for it's desert-like landscape, beautiful views of the Mediterrean Sea and the absence of an escape from the blazing sun.

ROSE DE MAI

Heading for the foothills of Grasse, and its Rose de Mai. Flowers in full bloom and early season climbs combine to produce a beautiful spring ride.

PARIS - NICE

Paris- Nice didn't end as it should this year but the roads not ridden are still there. A local classic that says spring has arrived.

BACK TO BASICS

If you’re looking for flat, look somewhere else. It may be close to home but it's time to climb. This is two times up and two times down. Really what riding is about.