Il Giro dell'Ichnusa In Sardinian, Ichnusa means footprint and is also the ancient name of Sardinia. The legend goes that the island was imprinted by the giant foot of a Greek god; the Greeks may have started that one but it’s easy to imagine when you look at the map. Sardinia is the second largest island in the Mediterranean Sea and boasts landscapes of breath-taking beauty. Our bikes, harnessed with panniers and sporting wide tyres, are ready for action as we board the ferry from Nice to make the journey over to this coveted island. The crossing is slow, and the weather expands as we bob further away from dry land, passing Corsica and barely recognising its rocky profile. Finally, the weather clears and the boat drops us into the early morning sun at Golfo Aranci on the north-eastern side of Sardinia. We must reach the village of Cuglieri to the east of the island, a route of 200 kilometres with 3500 meters of elevation. We take the opportunity to discover the middle of Sardinia with its perched villages; sublime but tortuous cork forests; its forever changing, hilly and green landscapes; its deep cirques and its mountains still capped with snow. The small roads we take are deserted, the only encounters with other creatures are countless herds of sheep grazing quietly in the verdant meadows. We also encounter consecutive ‘Patou’, very effective guard dogs who hail from the Pyrenees, and they ensure we keep well away from their woollen assignment. Cuglieri, a typical old village with winding streets and set on a hill 400 meters above sea level, is our base camp. From there, we leave to explore the surroundings mixing road and gravel. To the east, the Mediterranean unfolds, to the west, the Montiferru, a massif of volcanic origin that dominates the surroundings to the west with its imposing presence. In every direction, along each of the four cardinal points, our tyre tracks meet lush natural surroundings. The fauna and particularly the Sardinian flora are abundant. Many species of plants and flowers are native to the island and constantly delight us as we travel. The roads are lined with wildflowers, and the trails cross forests of mimosas whose aroma intoxicates us. We cross expanses of wild orchids, and we scratch our legs in contact with myrtle bushes and thorny brooms. Our itinerary is punctuated with a series of enchanting places: a 10th century church; a small restaurant of Sardinian specialties; a waterfall flowing into the sea; a colourful and timeless village; a white quartz beach; a fishermen's café at the end of a spit of sand; an uncompleted bridge; a pond in which pink flamingos potter; a small pastry shop that makes the best biscuits in the region; and the ruins of the ancient Punic civilization. Five days are certainly not enough to cover the island, but we were able to explore a good part of the North-West. The appointment is agreed already to return and ride the remaining three-quarters, surveying the many small roads and gravel tracks which trace the imprint of Ichnusa. While thinking about this wonderful voyage of discovery, we make the crossing back on the ferry and admire a timeless sunset over the sea, gently bringing us back to the reality of the continent. Further Riding A Tour of the Volcanoes of Auvergne Sophie Gateau explores the Auvergne region, where there are probably more cows than humans per m2, armed with our camera, a tent and a knife. VIEW MORE Tracing the Torino-Nice Rally A legendary gravel ride travelling from Italy to France. Sophie Gateau and Mathias Riquier explore the route ahead of the start of the Rally this September. VIEW MORE The Ultra Distance Gravel Race Sophie Gateau tackles Badlands, an unsupported off-road race through Andalusia, made up of around 725km and 15,000m of altitude gain. VIEW MORE North Cape 4000 Sophie Gateau rides thousands of kilometers north to avoid rabid dogs and make friends with reindeers in her latest Audax adventure. VIEW MORE

The Queens of Gravel Conquer Iceland The Rift, Iceland - Fire and Ice Iceland is a wild and hostile land. Its topology is unique, made up of active volcanoes and huge glaciers covering more than 10% of its surface. The enchantment of the fjords, with coastlines chiselled out of ancient rocks and archipelago spreading as far as you can see, then beyond them neighbouring Greenland. The dramatic landscapes of the island, mostly devoid of vegetation, feature huge expanses of lava and black sand. If there is one Gravel race not to be missed under any circumstances for the beauty and power of the scenery, it is undoubtedly The Rift. In 2022, being a woman and advocating for equality in the sporting world is about action. In this sport women and men take to the same startline, compete over the same distance, battle on the same relief, cross the same rivers, and come up against the same elements. It will be necessary for all of them to prove themselves over 200km of tracks and roads, with more than eight hours of uninterrupted effort in the land of the Vikings. In this game, without perseverance, power is nothing. The race is unrivalled in that it bypasses Hekla, culminating at 1491 meters, over most of the course. Hekla is an active volcano capable of erupting at any moment. On a regular basis, the natives receive messages warning them of a possible eruption; signs indicating the procedure to follow in the event of volcanic activity are placed on all the access roads to the site. In 1970, 1980, 1991 and 2000 when Hekla breathed fire from its belly, seismic activity was detected only 30 to 60 minutes before the fateful moment. This Saturday, as race day requires, Hekla remains silent, and instead a thousand bikes will shake the landscape. After La Traka in Spain and then Unbound in the USA, the women of the Café du Cycliste Gravel Team came to rub shoulders with the best of Planet Gravel in the far north. They shone bright, even more than that, Annabel Fisher, the Swiss-based rider of the Team Café du Cycliste will win the queen race of 200km. However, her race quickly took on an added challenge when she fell badly at the 30th kilometre (it later transpired she had broken two ribs). After 125km of racing, the pain is more violent than ever, the racer, a regular on tarmac more than stony tracks, sees her lead of 17 minutes melt like an ice cube in the midday heat. After 125km of racing, the pain is more violent than ever, the racer, a regular on tarmac more than stony tracks, sees her lead of 17 minutes melt like an ice cube in the midday heat. Pain and nausea take hold, so the brain must gradually opt for survival mode, adrenaline is the antidote. Two minutes is the gap she will manage to hold to the finish line, collapsing on the ground in a heap, immediately after crossing it, raising her arms to the sky in relief, pan and maybe a little joy. Danielle, Maria and Lydia will complete the course in a time capable of making more than one seasoned cyclist pale, finishing respectively in 5th, 7th and 9th place in the race. The ideal result ahead of the qualifying round of the UCI world championship scheduled for September 3 in Italy’s Piedmont. August will not be a vacation month for everyone, far from it. Get well soon, Annabel. Chapeau. MORE FROM THE CDC GT UNBOUND In terms of Gravel racing there is Unbound, and then there is the rest. For Gravel enthusiasts, Unbound is more than a race, it's a pilgrimage, a baptism of dirt and fire that every follower dreams of one day living. VIEW MORE LA TRAKA Girona’s location and laidback atmosphere make it irresistible to Gravel enthusiasts. The Traka has established itself here as the benchmark European Gravel race. VIEW MORE Annabel Fisher In this video we go behind the scenes, speaking to the first of our three athletes, Annabel Fisher at the Traka, Girona - her first ever Gravel race. VIEW MORE Danielle Larson This short film gives an insight into rider Danielle Larson’s fortunes on the 200 mile course at the Unbound, and her general approach to gravel racing. VIEW MORE

Tour de France 2022: Cafe du Cycliste’s PETITE BOUCLE Already into the second week of the Tour de France and the collective enthusiasm for the ‘Grande Boucle’ never seemed stronger. Covid had unfortunately passed its evil wand over the last two editions, eradicating the conviviality which is such a big part of the race. But this year, the supporters and the crazy party atmosphere has been reborn. Taking advantage of the riders' rest day in Morzine in the heart of Haute Savoie, we launched the invitation for our ‘Petite Boucle’, a collective outing of friends and colleagues that would follow a good part of the route of the next day's stage 10 ( Morzine–Megève) to return to its starting point via the famous Col de Joux Plane. A demanding route, but any ride in this part of France worth venturing on rarely avoids the mountains. 140 kilometres with close to 3000 metres of climbing was on the menu, so it was no walk in the park. 8:30 am at Place de Morzine, bright sunshine already heating up the day and the surrounding mountains. No less than six nations were represented in the group of twenty riders including Jérôme Cousin, an ex-professional who participated in the Tour de France just two years ago. Monsieur Cousin would be our ‘luxury’ ride leader for the day. Group photos taken, we descended for 30 kms to the shores of Lake Geneva. Cooler than expected, the wheels span at high speed in the Dranse valley of Morzine. As a group we estimated seven hours on the road today so, taking the time to enjoy the landscapes, we get to know each other by riding at conversation pace and refuelling regularly. Everyone already knows that the Col de Joux Plane will be the apotheosis for this long outing. We will reach it around 2:00 pm, with the sun high in the sky and the heat close to 28°C. The viciousness of the climb is undeniable from the first few kilometres. With the average percentage at 9%, Joux Plane is recognised as one of the most difficult mountain passes on the cycling planet, and has an infamous reputation in Tour history. In 2000, Lance Armstrong crushed the competition, especially in the mountain stages. The stage on Joux Plane, however, Richard Virenque set an unbelievable pace; leading Armstrong to experience the dreaded ‘bonk’ or ‘craving’ – also known as hypoglycaemia, where the muscles run out of sugar. No gifts, no Haribo, no ‘eating the field’ as per usual for the Texan. Alas, Armstrong hit the wall, Jan Ullrich was dropped and Alberto Heras and Virenque continued side-by-side over the crest of Joux Plane. Heras hit the deck on the final corner and Virenque took the stage, much to the delight of the French fans in Morzine. Our riders in 2022 did not have such a bad time as Lance Armstrong. All shone, all climbing at their own pace, which was very high for some trying to keep pace with the ex-pro Jérôme Cousin. Cousin was a gentleman, encouraging and supporting others as we moved towards the summit. A fizzing descent to Morzine marked a fast and furious end to a memorable day in the mountains, and one of the many great theatres of the Tour de France. Further Riding Another Tour : Morzine, July '22 The Tour is life. From the northern cobblestones to the Alps, the Pyrénées to the Champs Élysées. Every dog has its day. The highs and lows, the mountains and the valleys, on and on they race. VIEW MORE The Best Fondue Savoyarde in the World The best fondue Savoyarde in the world is tasted during the Tour de France, at the top of an Alpine pass after a long day waiting to see the peloton whizz past. VIEW MORE It's Ventoux time When the organisers announced that the Ventoux would be climbed twice in the Tour de France 2021 edition, it was certain that July 7th was going to be a historic day. VIEW MORE Ventoux Times Two Scenes from the road side of the Mont Ventoux on Stage 11 of the Tour de France 2021. VIEW MORE

Unbound and the Church of Gravel In terms of Gravel racing there is Unbound, and then there is the rest. For Gravel enthusiasts, Unbound is more than a race, it's a pilgrimage, a baptism of dirt and fire that every follower dreams of one day living. Emporia, Kansas, the sleepy rural town of less than 25,000 inhabitants, stands out as the mecca for a cycling religion that is gaining followers by the hour. The growing appetite for ‘ultra’ events has established Gravel which, through the length of the races and the difficulty of its terrain, meets the specifications of extreme sport in all respects. This is no round of golf. Here we are talking about pushing your limits, the choice ranges from 100 miles (160 kilometres) for the most sensible, to 200 and 350 miles for the most irrational competitors. The latter format will see most spend a night riding (and perhaps weeping) outside, testing their limits of sleep deprivation as well as their battered legs. Nobody could foresee the global success of this race when first held in 2006. Back then 34 riders trundled across a 200-mile course on the rural roads of the Flint Hills in eastern Kansas. Today, the course is essentially the same, but the number of participants has increased dramatically. Back then there was no such machine as a ‘gravel bike’. During this first weekend of June, the entire city of Emporia is transformed to welcome riders of all ages and backgrounds. The surrounding territories crossed by the race also show their hospitality – a restaurant in the middle of the countryside displays an Unbound cheesecake, the local Methodist shack dedicates its worship to cyclists, and everywhere welcome signs and messages announce the event to everyone who draws breath here. One wonders how many CO2 cartridges the bike shop in Emporia has sold in the last 48 hours. To the extreme distance and technical difficulty of the routes can also be added climatic conditions capable of further complicating things. In 2021, the race was hit with a heat close to 40°C, this year in 2022 it was with rain and the subsequent mud that riders had to deal with. Saturday, 500 hours, 6th Avenue in Emporia comes alive. The flashing lights of the vehicles stamped SHERIFF give the place a theatrical atmosphere, a major event like this has the full attention of the local police. At close to 600 hrs, a few minutes before the start time, a swarm of drones take flight, and hover a few metres beyond the start line. More than a thousand bikes cross this line a few minutes later, forming an endless peloton stretching under the noses of a large crowd of spectators. The Unbound course unfurls on wide paths as far as the eye can see. Some portions are for their part hilly, alternating for long, endless kilometres in a succession of dips and bumps. When the rain is unleashed halfway through, the conditions become daunting for all involved. The mud makes its appearance and changes the configuration of the race. It forces riders to stop to unclog drivetrains, it makes its way everywhere, most dramatically painting the faces of every racer, transforming them into underground miners who’ve just surfaced from the bowels of the earth. The 200 miles will be covered by the best in 9 hrs 22 mins, in 5 hrs for the 100er. On the team of the CDC-GT, Lydia Iglesias (winner of the 200km Traka) completed the 100-mile event in sixth place for women in 5 hrs 44 mins. Danielle Larson completed the 200 miles in 12 hrs placing her in the first quarter of the race. Maria, our 3rd racer, was forced to retire after roughly 80 miles. Sunday afternoon, the day after the race at Kansas City airport. An abnormally high number of travellers pushing or pulling large suitcases wander, glassy eyed, through the airport halls. We can clearly see from their swaying gait and tired faces the efforts of the previous day out in rural Kansas. To finish Unbound is to suffer, but it is to undoubtedly belong to the church of Gravel. Further Riding Gravel Advice We sat down with the CDC GT to talk about women’s racing and community, and how it feels to be a female athlete in a traditionally male-focussed sport. VIEW MORE Inside the CDC GT In this video we go behind the scenes, speaking to the first of our three athletes, Annabel Fisher at the Traka, Girona - her first ever Gravel race. VIEW MORE Sound and Force Café du Cycliste’s Gravel racing trio tackled their first event in Girona on Saturday May 1st 2022. Annabel Fisher took top spot in the 100km distance, her first ever Gravel race. VIEW MORE The Traka Girona’s location and laidback atmosphere make it irresistible to Gravel enthusiasts and, unsurprisingly, The Traka has established itself here as the benchmark European Gravel race. VIEW MORE

Electric Epic : Shooting with Yuba The push-bicycle (and also, now, electric) offers us access to the quiet places from which cars and other motorised vehicles are excluded. Some of these places are breathtakingly beautiful and it is even more rewarding that reaching them is earned (perhaps) by propelling ourselves – that it takes special effort to get there. On the French Riviera, between Cannes and Saint Raphaël, the orange rocks of the Massif de l'Estérel plunge into the blue water of the Mediterranean. The Corniche here is a reference spot for cyclists in the area, but many will tell you that it is by taking the small roads, away from traffic and perched on the mountainside, that the spectacle becomes the most beautiful. The asphalt changes colour, from black to pink, and as the bikes rise over the rocks, silence washes over you as nature envelops and hypnotises every rider. Each turn of the wheel is a delight as an extraordinary, dizzying landscape unfolds before the eyes. At the Café du Cycliste it is these extraordinary nearby places that we like to explore, privileged as we are to photograph seasonal collections in this proverbial paradise. Here, natural beauty must be respected, and a photo-shoot takes on the appearance of a somewhat special expedition, with clothing, accessories, crew and photographic equipment. Yuba, a Californian manufacturer of cargo bikes, has been revolutionising the transport of people and equipment while respecting the environment for many years. The modularity of the bikes allows for the transport of heavier goods and also passengers, comfortably seated at the back of the bikes. It is natural that our two brands join forces to remix more conventional shooting techniques. So we took the time to prepare everything and then we crossed the barriers that block motor vehicle access to these small secondary roads, to ride up to the peaceful altitude of the Massif de l’Esterel. Despite the steep slope, the power of the electric motors easily transports crews weighing more than 150 kilograms. The gear and clothing is loaded aboard a freighter bike while our photographer, installed on the back of another of these bikes, begins to give voice to direct the models. And then off we go… The speed that loaded freighters are capable of is more than enough to outrun the muscle bikes of our beautiful cyclists. This January day is a godsend for photographing the spring-summer collection, commonplace in this part of France where we love to reside (we will never get tired of it). Mission accomplished, this afternoon we worked effectively. End of the day on the Estérel Massif, the sun sets over the sea, the red rocks offer a striking contrast. We leave this beautiful playground, promising to come back soon, certainly with magnificent bikes that will allow us to taste the joys of off-roading. Further Riding Exploring the Morvan The Morvan isn’t easily explained. Travelling here is like taking a step back in time, and for those who love cycling, it’s a rich treasure trove waiting to be discovered. VIEW MORE Tracks and Trails in the Ariège Five friends explore routes shared with the incredibly diverse range of four legged and airborne residents of the Ariège by bike. VIEW MORE A Traverse Across the Pyrenees Each summer, I set off on an adventurous trip with good friends who are up for a challenge. Last year, we bikepacked through the Alps and this year we tackled the Pyrenees. VIEW MORE Ride & Create: Rémi Clermont Rémi Clermont is creative director of Café du Cycliste. Here he speaks about creativity, and the vital role his own cycling plays in the process. VIEW MORE

GRAVEL ADVICE : WOMEN OF THE CDC GT We sat down with the CDC GT, our female trio of Gravel racers, to talk about women’s racing and community, and how it feels to be a female athlete in a traditionally male-focussed sport. Do you think Gravel racing is an equaliser, a more level playing field? Danielle: Gravel racing has a lower cost of entrance both in experience and resources compared to other cycling disciplines. You do not have to move up any ranks to compete with the top athletes. It only requires one bike, you do not need a team to enter either. Also, it combines endurance with bike handling – this is one of my favourite parts! It makes both skills important to compete at the top level and you cannot have one without the other. Maria: Yes, I think that is one of the most fun things about the Gravel scene and the community, everybody has the same chance to ride the distance they like or want to challenge themselves in. It will always be different between genders in terms of results in the sport but that’s not what we are aiming for. Pros, amateurs, beginners – of any gender – are riding together with the different goals of the day, gravel is a cultural beauty. Do you have any fun stories about beating men on the bike? Maria: I have raced with and against men so many times in Iceland. One MTB race I started way too fast, totally not my day, and got dropped from the front group. I was so wasted trying to stay in the next group and was hanging with my head drooling on the stem. I heard the guys happily saying, “Hey we are strong today, Maria is in our group”. But my feeling is that men are no longer thinking about if they are beaten by a woman or not, I can feel a difference in the dynamic between genders the last couple of years. Annabel: Of course there are many times when I have dropped men like stones on climbs, most recently in Girona when out for a training ride with Clémence [Marketing at Café du Cycliste] and Christophe [Head of Content]. Christophe (foolishly) upped the pace as we closed in on the summit of a col, and just as he reached a full gas effort, I attacked, never to be seen again, haha.  What do you think the sport as a whole needs to do to keep growing women’s riding and racing? Annabel: The introduction of a minimum wage for those women who are professional, allowing them to dedicate themselves to the sport, creating a higher standard of athletes. And for those who ride and race for fun, a huge push on content showing women of all sorts participating, paving the way for the thousands yet to follow. Danielle: Yeah, racing against only women drastically changes the dynamics of a race and currently in the gravel scene a lot of smaller races haven’t adopted separate men and women’s starts. Also better coverage of women’s racing will help to build the sport; better so that it is equal to the men. In gravel specifically, having a separate men and women’s start will help improve coverage of just the women’s race. Maria: Create a situation and platform for women to make connections with other women. When connections are made, groups begin to form and grow, most women are social animals and women grow courage when they are near other women, I have seen that happening thousand of times as a coach and event organiser. You are the first Café du Cycliste racing team, do you think the brand is helping push the female narrative? Annabel: I’ve never claimed to be a feminist or someone that stands up for the female narrative, because I simply don’t think it’s necessary. By highlighting discrepancies between any two features, be they discrepancies or not, divisions and inequalities are too easily formed. Women, quite frankly, are amazing. And men, despite their flaws, are equally as impressive, and each in their own way. What the Café du Cycliste race team and brand does, in my opinion, is to facilitate the hopes and dreams of each individual, and inspire others along the way. Danielle: Yes. Hell yes. Supporting women’s racing helps support equality across all sports not just cycling. Women’s racing is exciting and with Café du Cycliste’s support, we are able to showcase that! Any top tips to young female riders looking to get into racing? Danielle: Cycling is about the long game, in racing and training. It’s a sport of attrition and depth in both athleticism and experience. Start now and keep at it. It only gets better. Annabel: The most important thing is to enjoy yourself because there’s absolutely no point in putting yourself through the training, the arduous journeys, and making sacrifices if you don’t take immense pleasure from being on that start line and pushing every limit in your body and mind. Oh, and get good kit. It won’t change the result of a race, but it will make a difference to you. Café du Cycliste, DMT, POC and Lauf are highly recommended! Maria: Yes, have fun above everything else. Don’t always totally stick to the plan, consistency is the key and respect the recovery both physically and mentally. And just ride! In one word, #whatisgravel for women’s cycling? Maria: Community. Annabel: Powerful. Danielle: Opportunity. CDC GT The Team Café du Cycliste’s first official racing team. Bringing together three dedicated riders, all hungry for big adventure on mixed terrain. VIEW MORE Annabel Fisher Annabel is based in Switzerland, near Geneva. Having raced at university, she returned to cycling for the Tour de Yorkshire in 2018 and never looked back. VIEW MORE Danielle Larson Danielle is based in Bentonville, Arkansas. She is an ex heptathlete and competitive ballroom dancer but cycling is now her profession and passion. VIEW MORE María Guðmundsdóttir Maria grew up in the Westfjords of Iceland, Isafjordur. She is a bike coach, psychologist, and the 1st woman on the Icelandic national cycling team. VIEW MORE

#whatisgravel: An exploration of Mont Blanc The Roof of Europe, more commonly known as Mont Blanc, culminates at 4810 metres and to circle its base, three countries must be crossed. The subject of many controversies between France and Italy, there is no doubt that this geological monster clearly lives in both countries, but the real issue concerns its summit, and who can claim stewardship of the eleventh highest mountain in the world. This perhaps emphasises the lunacy of territories and borders – owning nature on this scale is surely not possible. The destiny of Mont Blanc is historically linked to that of the city of Nice – another location that has passed between Italian and French ownership. In 1860, Victor Emmanuel II of Savoy, desiring to unify Italy and become its king, ceded the Sardinian states of Nice and Savoy to France by the Treaty of Turin, in exchange for military and diplomatic aid from France. The treaty includes the summit of Mont Blanc. If we still needed to argue the case for Gravel riding’s stature in the velocipedic landscape, this Tour du Mont Blanc will provide sufficient evidence. Asking the question #whatisgravel at this altitude, is an exciting prospect. The approximately 218 kilometres of this gravel route achieve the perfect synthesis of road and MTB riding, placing us most of the time in the heart of the mountain and far from traffic, while allowing us to comfortably borrow parts of asphalt to cross between passes. In terms of how you travel, there are two ways of attempting the journey. One opts for the comfort of a light bike by selecting hotels along the route (and the half-board that goes with it), the other for a heavier bike but capable of offering us total autonomy and the 100% outdoor experience that goes with it. We did this trail in early October with uncertain weather and opted for the comfort version. From Chamonix to La Fouly, the Swiss stage. The reputation of Chamonix as a mountaineering paradise comes from the story that two Englishmen, William Windham and Richard Pococke, tell of the valley they have just visited and mention in particular a gigantic glacier which they baptize the Mer de Glace. This was in 1741. 45 years later, on August 8, 1786, two Chamoniards, Jacques Balmat and Michel Paccard were the first mountaineers to reach the summit of Mont Blanc. Sadly, the Mer de Glace now looks more like an ice lolly that a kid would have already eaten down to the stick. Global warming has got the better of it. The largest glacier in France retreats 10 metres each year. Being at the foot of this giant and going around it remains an event, and the different glaciers that we see there captivate by their size and their strength. The morning temperature is not very high when we leave Chamonix in the direction of Le Lavanchet via the paths which in winter form a cross-country ski trail. From Argentière, the tour then leads to the Col des Montets towards Vallorcine, by paved road. The arrival in Chatelard by an alternation of roads and paths marks our arrival in Switzerland. The 13 kilometre climb to Champex Lac which follows the lunch break in Martigny marks the start of a real battle. When we pass the doors of the Auberge in the evening at La Fouly, our counters show 76km and a total ascent of nearly 2600 meters. La Fouly – Beaufort: one day, three countries. The most demanding day of the Tour, the first challenge is the Grand Col Ferret at 2537m, which is reached by taking some off-road sectors. This pass marks the border between Switzerland and Italy, offering a remarkable view of the Grande Jorasses in good weather. We crossed it in a thick mist, leaving us with not much to write home about. Dropping down 500m to the Elena refuge on the Italian side required walking beside the bike. The refuge, built shortly before the Second World War, was destroyed by an avalanche in 1960 and was not rebuilt until 1995, which explains its modern construction. The arrival in Courmayeur presents a typical alpine landscape with all the clichés of torrents spanned by wooden bridges, rustic chalets, green meadows, and sumptuous evergreen forests. This valley experienced intense activity during the 16th century due to its gold mines. Courmayeur would also take its name from the Latin Curia Mayor (Court of Justice) as law enforcement was needed in the city because of the large number of people who arrived and fought for this gold rush… We will not linger, the ascent of the Col de Seigne which awaits us is substantial and relatively difficult because of the stony paths which lead to it. The playful descent on the French side, before embarking on the short ascent of the Cormet de Roseland is offered as a reward. The night in Beaufort at the foot of the former Imperial Gendarmerie marks the end of a long and demanding day in and out of the saddle. Beaufort – Chamonix: on the slopes The shortest of our stages on the Tour but demanding for the long ascent of the Col du Joly (22km +1250m). We start the day at a thunderous pace and due to the very steep slopes of more than 26% we are already cooked as we reach the Voza pass. Here we encounter a view of the Aiguille de Bionnassay which rises to 4052 metres, just under four kilometres west of Mont Blanc. The descents on the ski slopes on the Contamines side require you to stay focused, here too you would see yourself having more success on a full suspension mountain bike. Hikers who climb the slopes on this sunny Sunday seemed intrigued to see us tumble down on these loaded bikes. The 10km on the banks of the Arve mark the last part of this extraordinary journey and the salt left by perspiration on our jerseys and shorts attests to these three days of effort in a place that is both mythical and sublime. Further Riding What is gravel cycling? It’s off-road and on-road. It’s riding and not riding. It’s racing and not racing. It’s everywhere and nowhere. Can it be pinned down? VIEW MORE Tracing the Torino-Nice Rally A legendary gravel ride travelling from Italy to France. Sophie Gateau and Mathias Riquier explore the route ahead of the start of the Rally this September. VIEW MORE Roc d'Azur Three fierce female riders, Holly, Charlotte and Maria, take on one of the greatest gravel events in the world. VIEW MORE Tracks and Trails in the Ariège Five friends explore routes shared with the incredibly diverse range of four legged and airborne residents of the Ariège by bike. VIEW MORE

The Traka : Girona and CDC GT It’s not hard to see why some people believe Girona to be Europe’s premier cycling destination. There is of course a point of bias in this sentence, when one is attached to the Côte d'Azur, to its extraordinary routes where the most beautiful passes dip their toes into the blue of the Mediterranean, to the softness of its climate, with the unparalleled atmosphere of its perched villages. But Girona also has the personality and the physical assets to court cyclists from all over the world. A few dozen kilometres away from the bustling and noisy resorts of the Costa Brava, once you enter the old town you take the pulse of this city whose heart beats for cycling. Here, beautiful bike shops have sprung up everywhere, and bicycle tourists from all over the world roam the narrow streets alongside those who, seated on the terraces of trendy cycling-themed bars, measure their belonging to the wheel-world by the performance of their Instagram notifications. Girona is definitely ‘the place to be’ when you are a keen cyclist. Long before the arrival of US Postal and its infamous leader Lance Armstrong, other professional cyclists like Johnny Weltz had chosen the city as a training and vacation spot. Cheaper than the Côte d'Azur, the small Catalan town has been attracting pros and amateurs for several decades. Ensconced in the heart of a landscape that is full of possibilities, Girona’s location and laidback atmosphere make it irresistible. Today aficionados of every bike discipline will find their holy grail here. On tarmac, quiet roads meander towards the heights, crossing through picturesque medieval villages and past immense flowery fields and verdant meadows. For mountain bikers, it seems that every exit from the road is a natural wonder. But it is undoubtedly the Gravel enthusiasts who speak best of the region. The surrounding hills are riddled with wide paths, the countryside is dotted with trails as far as the eye can see. From here it is possible to reach the sea some 40km away by riding only on beaten earth and return by a route of the same topography. Unsurprisingly the offroad race – Traka – has established itself here as the benchmark European race in the gravel discipline. Without yet reaching the number of participants in the American races, this 2022 edition of Traka welcomed more than 800 participants from 35 different countries, competing in one of the three races offered in the program: 100, 200, and a whopping 360km. In the cool of the early morning, the competitors gather on the starting grid, satisfied to see that the sun pointing its nose above the gloomy clouds. The excitement is palpable, eager to do battle, these two years of interruption have seemed like an eternity. The girls of the CDC-GT – Café du Cycliste’s new racing team – are in the starting blocks, and Traka is for them the first race of an international tour on the Gravel circuit. The Seigla, the latest generation of Lauf bikes, have been delivered to them a few days before, and they too are waiting to be unleashed at the gun. This race marks the start of the competition for these top-of-the-range frames from the Icelandic brand. The bikes will keep their promise today, and they will see two girls raise their arms to the sky. The first bump a few kilometres after the start makes the selection, then groups are formed and the race is on. It’s a good day’s racing ahead of them. The countryside is coloured with moving bodies and machines everywhere, as if a painter, a student of pointillism, was trying his hand at an animated canvas. Cyclists swarm the territory, they cross the land for miles around, raising characteristic clouds of dust. Zoom-in to the finish area and faces, jerseys, bikes are covered in mud. As for the Café du Cycliste Gravel Team, Annabel Fisher will never be tested at the head of the 100km loop and crosses the line in 1st, Maria Ögn Guðmundsdóttir will take 3rd place on the 200km course. And Danielle Larson will fail 15km from the finish line after breaking her rim when she was in 5th place. Next stop – the United States for Unbound, in the court of the giants of the discipline, a month from now. Further Riding CDC GT Café du Cycliste’s first official racing team. Bringing together three dedicated riders, all hungry for big adventure on mixed terrain. VIEW MORE María Guðmundsdóttir Maria grew up in the Westfjords of Iceland, Isafjordur. She is a bike coach, psychologist, and the 1st woman on the Icelandic national cycling team. VIEW MORE Danielle Larson Danielle is based in Bentonville, Arkansas. She is an ex heptathlete and competitive ballroom dancer but cycling is now her profession and passion. VIEW MORE Annabel Fisher Annabel is based in Switzerland, near Geneva. Having raced at university, she returned to cycling for the Tour de Yorkshire in 2018 and never looked back. VIEW MORE

The Night Rider In this heady corner of the globe, temperatures can reach 40°C during the day, with a humidity level of 90%. Sweat trickles through every pore. Without making even the slightest movement there is an unpleasant sensation of permanent dampness. It’s what the British might call ‘close’. As you ride out here in daytime under the beat of the United Arab Emirates sunshine, the UV index reaches new heights. The rays work like the grill of a giant toaster, burning bare skin in a matter of minutes. The air-conditioned buildings of urban luxury here are real refuges, without which it seems impossible to survive. But further in the desert, the natives seem to master the phenomenon of heat and humidity, dressed in white, exploiting every corner of shade, every slightest draft. In the Middle East, from June to September, riding a bicycle means using the home trainer and said air conditioning, giving up on the outdoors, unless, that is, you choose to ride at night. The idea is not so absurd, and many seize upon it to continue riding on the outside, even if it means living against the grain of the rest of the air-conditioned world. The height of extravagant infrastructure, here in Dubai, kilometres of cycle paths are illuminated throughout the night to allow cyclists to ride, transforming the adventure of a night ride into a real attraction. It’s a fascinating notion, ​​pedalling through under the stars when a good part of the city is sleeping. Here, to hope to ride at a reasonable temperature of 28°C, you have to roll out well towards midnight. But at this time traffic slows down, and can even disappear. The city becomes an amusement park where the night is never really present, thanks to electric beacons buzzing above, and below. But the experience seems artificial, and quite lonely, with no one else around. Despite the effort made pedalling, it feels like a dream. Seeing the yellow road markings scroll for miles under the wheels is reminiscent of the irreplaceable feeling of racing day after day, where you have to fight against the repetition of fatigue, and the elements. Like those hallucinations that come to you when your mind seems on autopilot, when your body is nothing more than a machine, responding only to the order to roll as fast and as far as possible. Just as at the races, in this lonely atmosphere we can’t stop; sleeping is for those who don’t ride, sleeping is for the uninitiated. In the distance the lights of the tallest towers in the world mingle with the stars. From here the halo of megawatts might be mistaken for the moon, and the moon mistaken for a street lamp. Around me the sand returns the heat it has stored-up during the day, and being in motion on the bike is the only way to benefit from a little air. As soon as you stop the machine, the atmosphere quickly becomes heavy, and as the British might say, ‘very bloody close’. 70 kilometres in a little over two hours. Not really a long outing by an ex-pro’s standards but it's almost a luxury here at this time of year. A luxury that requires staying awake, a luxury that will probably become a regretful ache or two when the alarm clock rings in a few hours from now… Further Riding Jebel Jais – A Mountain in the Desert What might you expect from a bike ride in the desert? The United Arab Emirates is a burgeoning cycling scene in a place you might not expect. VIEW MORE Ride & Create: Izu Ani Izu Ani is a well-known chef on the Côte d'Azur, he has a habit of appearing at the Café du Cycliste in the port of Nice like magic. VIEW MORE Jérôme Cousin: From the Peloton to the Desert Less than a year ago, Jérôme Cousin was still a professional bike racer. Now, pedalling in the desert, Jérôme’s only onlookers are the occasional farmer and his camels. VIEW MORE Audax Lookbook: Light and Long The devil is always in the detail, especially when the ride is long.There are no half measures on full days, no short cuts to big distances. VIEW MORE

Jebel Jais – A Mountain in the Desert What might you expect from a bike ride in the desert? Sand in your face, crosswinds dragging at your wheels, and an unbearable heat? Not quite. We visited the United Arab Emirates (UAE) to discover a burgeoning cycling scene in a place you might not expect. Instead of the obvious images of bling cars, skyscrapers and palm trees, Dubai has a welcoming feel for cyclists looking to find warmth in winter and some training rides at elevation. Beyond the cycle paths and city limits is a playground of rolling roads with silky smooth tarmac, and very distinctive mountains. You might also see the odd camel or oryx on your ride too. Since 2019 the WorldTour has come to Dubai and the UAE for the premier race in the Middle East, the UAE Tour. The stereotypical image of a peloton battling in the echelons on flat roads is countered by a number of climbs in the region, notably Jebel Jais. Located in the Al Hajar mountain range, the stark geological structures set against the hazy desert sky give these roads an otherworldly appearance. The highest summit in the UAE, the climb was the finish for stage four of this year’s race, won by current Tour de France champion Tadej Pogacar, and rider for the UAE Team Emirates, no less. We tackled Jebel Jais early one Tuesday morning in March, to avoid traffic out of Dubai and the heat at the bottom of the valley. Beginning from Ras Al Khaimah, where we parked up, the first few kilometres we saw construction sites and trucks carrying rubble down the mountain. This is another constant alongside fancy cars in this part of the world – building work. But that was virtually the only traffic we saw on the road. Perfection. Jebel Jais is a 35 kilometre climb with a smooth average gradient of 4.1% and all the way up and down, there were mountain goats (caution on the descent as they often cross in small groups) scurrying about. We discovered riding in a group helped against the inevitable desert winds rolling through the valley, but the smooth grip of the road helped us along. The road was wide with perfect black tarmac, and switchbacks offering scenic views of the surrounding mountains and rock forms. The top of the climb takes you up to 1608 metres above the sea, and when we got there we felt very far from the ocean indeed. Where the climb ends you will also find the highest restaurant of the UAE with iridescent Bentleys and stretch Hummers parked outside. You can also find the longest zip-wire in the world here, if you decide that is a sensible form of transport. The road actually continues up into the mountains from here but is closed to the public as Sheik of Al Khaimah has a palace tucked away there. Once over the summit you cross the border into Oman. Temperatures are of course much cooler at 1600m, making our coffee break under the sun very enjoyable. On the way back down we see Emirati rider and teammate of Tadej Pogacar, Yousif Mirza, climbing at an impressive pace. The change in temperature is very sudden, and arriving at the bottom a wave of hot air crashes down on you, and you realise you are back in the heat of the desert. With thanks to our wonderful partner Pedal CC Dubai for logistical support and provision of bikes. Further Riding The Lozère: Hellhound on the Trail Lozère in the Massif Central is typical of France Profonde. Connected by quiet and winding roads, there is very little traffic, a cyclist’s dream. VIEW MORE The Camargue – Between Sky and Sea There are places in the world that are sanctuaries for nature, where wildlife is untouched by modern life. The Camargue is one of those special places. VIEW MORE Exploring the Morvan With Sophie Gateau The Morvan isn’t easily explained. A mountainous massif lying in the centre of the undulating Burgandy region. VIEW MORE Tracks and Trails in the Ariège Five friends explore routes shared with the incredibly diverse range of four legged and airborne residents of the Ariège by bike. VIEW MORE

Jérôme Cousin: From the Peloton to the Desert Less than a year ago, Jérôme Cousin was still a professional bike racer. He’s ridden in some of the world’s greatest races, including the Tour de France. Now, pedalling in the desert, riding a bike loaded with luggage, Jérôme’s only onlookers are the occasional farmer and his camels. Without time checks, without the team car, without the race director shouting instructions through a megaphone, this is the antithesis of his old life. And he seems to enjoy it. To get to the United Arab Emirates everyone flies to Dubai, the city of all the luxury superlatives, the city whose buildings touch the sky, the city that would make Vegas look like a trailer park. But 150 kilometres away, towards the Gulf of Oman, Shawqa is a place known to intrepid hikers and mountain bikers, who venture into the sands for a few hours during the winter season, when the temperature does not exceed 30 degrees. Shawqa will be the launch pad for a two-day ride in the desert for Jérôme, with a minimum of luggage, lots of water, and the only constraint being finding a place to sleep for the evening. The goal on day one is to reach Al Dhaid, just over 100km from here. And reach it before dark. A little more than a thousand meters of elevation are on the menu too, according to the internet. What the itinerary found online did not reveal, however, was the huge stretch of road that cut through the desert and completely changed the topology. Yes Jérôme, you will have to adapt, you will have to carry, you will even have to ride on the side of this highway. The day is long. Navigation in the desert, even with electronic assistance, has its share of surprises. Sometimes there are half-built roads, elsewhere farms have settled in the middle of what until now constituted a bike path. Yet on some sections the paths are rolling, very fast in places, the perfect gravel riding terrain, you might say. The landscapes are breath-taking too. Thirsty, hot and hungry, the fruit stalls are a godsend, the spicy chicken and vegetable rice dish would be well worth two Michelin stars, he thinks. Maybe he’s more generous on an empty stomach. Arriving in the evening at the entrance of Al Dhaid, the atmosphere is lunar, Jérôme floats in the serene evening air. The sunset colours the sand orange, the desert keeps all its promises. The only hotel in the village will refuse the dusty bike traveller. “Complete” repeats the young employee in a well-worn suit, ogling the bicycle and its rider. Things get complicated… The Indians who run the restaurant offer Jérôme a bed in their two rooms, there are already seven of them living there but there is a place for him if he wishes. Generous people – travel confronts us with the reality of different lives, and some which appear much more difficult than elsewhere. Leaving Al Dhaid in the early morning, after a few kilometres, some camels appear. It's race day on the Al Dhaid track and hundreds of camels are preparing to start what is one of the greatest Bedouin traditions. Here, rich owners are ready to spend fortunes to acquire perfect animals, capable of running fast and winning these prestigious races. The camels are ridden by astonishing little robots that can be operated remotely to make them voice command or whip their charges. They’ve replaced the children who until the 2000s took enormous risks to ride the camels to victory. The show is fascinating. The ground has now become too soft, impossible to ride seated on the bike, Jérôme must get off and push for several kilometres. Time to stop in a local store for water, sweets and a photo with the grocer curious to see this traveller crossing the desert alone, on a bicycle. The last kilometres after crossing the Oman border are gruelling. The rolling track has turned into a stony path like that along the bed of a river or up the side of a mountain. Off the pedals again and again to push the bike. The heat has become oppressive, the water cans are emptying dangerously. The last refuelling seems a long time ago. But suddenly the journey has ended where it began, and the bottle of water he left in the car is boiling, impossible to quench this incredible thirst. Jérôme finds a gas station, and water, cold quenching water. A reward that you might take for granted under different circumstances. A loop of almost 200km which in two days literally transports you to a different time, and maybe a different planet. Further Riding #whatisgravel It’s off-road and on-road. It’s riding and not riding. It’s racing and not racing. It’s everywhere and nowhere. Can it be pinned down? VIEW MORE Coins Cachés: Boulder, Colorado Nestled on the eastern aspect of the foothills of the Colorado Rockies, the city of Boulder is a unique and idyllic hub for outdoor recreation—including cycling. VIEW MORE Badlands: The Ultra Distance Gravel Race Sophie Gateau tackles Badlands, an unsupported off-road race through Andalusia, made up of around 725km and 15,000m of altitude gain. VIEW MORE Tracks and Trails in the Ariège Five friends explore routes shared with the incredibly diverse range of four legged and airborne residents of the Ariège by bike. VIEW MORE

The Lozère: Hellhound on the Trail Lozère in the Massif Central is typical of France Profonde, or ‘deep France’. Its sparse population, with small sleeping villages and an untamed landscape feels like another world. Connected by quiet and winding roads, there is very little traffic, a cyclist’s dream. The Department’s volcanic geology and high altitude make it even more intoxicating, almost prehistoric. The hills really do have eyes. One question, why is it so deserted? Riding here you feel the weight of something mysterious, something powerful. Whenever the opportunity arose, we took detours onto gravel but riding in January, we encountered snow and ice. This made for some treacherous terrain which was at times impossible to navigate clipped into our pedals. Vicious blasts of cold air nipped at our legs and made the fingers sting. But the four of us rode with the nervous energy that comes from being in the wild in winter, rumbling along a route as if we had the hounds of hell chasing us. The adrenaline kept us moving, and as we began to find a rhythm, we became distracted with ideas and stories. There was one story which seemed to lurk in the shadows, waiting for us to discuss –The Beast of Gévaudan. Legend has it that in June 1764 a young farm-girl, whilst watching her flock in the Gévaudan (or Lozère as it is known today), was ravaged and killed by a wolf-like creature. Sheepherding is a dangerous business at the best of times, but this attack was brutal. There were further sightings, attacks and deaths, with every incident suggesting this was no ordinary animal. The people of Gévaudan were traumatised, with attacks becoming more frequent. Captain Jean-Baptiste Duhamel, head of the infantry at Clermont-Ferrand, tried to round up local farmers to hunt down this mysterious predator but it was reported that the reluctant volunteers couldn’t get close to the animal as it was superior in cunning, and that its terrifying appearance stopped them dead in their tracks. It may also have been because the hunters didn’t have carbon frames, 40mm tyres or disc brakes to chase said creature with. Duhamel described this terrifying beast as big as a horse and with red and black fur. Another witness claimed that it could walk on its hind legs and that its skin could even withstand musket fire. It was also said that some volunteers, desperate to lure the creature, dressed up as women. Indeed, legend goes even further to suggest that the Bête du Gévaudan became so difficult to capture that Louis XV sent his personal bodyguard, François Antoine, to assist the faltering locals. But Antoine couldn’t bag the bastard either. A giant wolf? A pack of wolves? An escaped tiger from the zoo? Or was it a blood-thirsty werewolf-farmer? Some historians suggest that the story was fabricated by Royalist newspapers, drumming up support for the king in rural France. We took it to represent the hunger fast approaching our bellies, and the darkness encountered by many cyclists when the calories are low. So, after exhausting our knowledge of this terrible tale, we pedalled as fast as possible on the paved road back to our lodgings, to satiate our very own beast. In October of 1767 a huge wolf was shot and killed by a local farmer near Langogne, and it is said that human remains were found inside the animal’s stomach. Perhaps this was the Beast. Perhaps not. Some people were convinced that the Beast of Gévaudan simply disappeared into the hills. Did we ride a little quicker than usual that day? Did our hunger get the better of us? Riding in the Massif is always an adventure beyond the ordinary, but when you are here, perhaps with no one else around, you start to imagine things. To think the beast lives on in the mountains here makes this place even more magical, if a little sinister. Further Riding Exploring the Morvan The Morvan isn’t easily explained. A mountainous massif lying in the centre of the undulating Burgandy region. VIEW MORE Tracks and Trails in the Ariège Five friends explore routes shared with the incredibly diverse range of four legged and airborne residents of the Ariège by bike. VIEW MORE A Tour of the Volcanoes of Auvergne Sophie Gateau explores the Auvergne region, where there are probably more cows than humans per m2, armed with our camera, a tent and a knife. VIEW MORE Tracing the Torino-Nice Rally A legendary gravel ride travelling from Italy to France. Sophie Gateau and Mathias Riquier explore the route ahead of the start of the Rally this September. VIEW MORE

Coins Cachés: Lago di Como Right where the Lombardian flatlands and Italian alps converge lies Lago di Como, the third largest, and possibly most celebrated lake in Italy. Nestled below mountains of grandeur, the lake’s shores are home to numerous villas, housing infamous aristocrats and movie-stars. But beyond the glamourous waterside, there are roads leading to hundreds of wonderful divergences, all accessible by bike. Like a giant pair of hands laid out, thousands of lines move off into steeper, lesser-known territories. Through woods, planes and hidden Italian villages, there is certainly a route for everyone. Being home to the prestigious autumn race, the Giro di Lombardia, with many Italian professionals calling it their playground, the region is steeped in road racing heritage. Indeed, there is a chapel dedicated to past heroes of the sport, the Madonna del Ghisallo, on the pass of the same name. If the patron saint of cycling resides here, you’ll generally feel welcome as a rider, carefully being overtaken by friendly local motorists and pro-teams alike. Its two major seaside cities, Como and Lecco, are easily accessible by train or car from either Bergamo or Milan. We decided on one of the lake‘s smaller and more central towns, Dervio, for our base. All the towns along the eastern shore of the lake are connected via railway, which opens-up even more possibilities. Alpe Giumello Although Alpe Giumello is one of the highest points (almost 1600m above sea level) accessible by paved road around Lago di Como, it’s still an unknown gem. Beginning in Italian style with a coffee in our hands and the sun on our faces, we reluctantly saddle-up and ride with the shoreline towards Bellano. Right at the northern end of this little town we take a turn, away from the water and right into a series of switchbacks. With every meter the view opens up, and towards the top we see nearby Lago Lugano and the 4000-meter peaks of the Monte Rosa. Arriving at the pass of Alpe Giumello, just 250m shy of the peak, completing a 1330m climb feels good and we decide to treat ourselves to some traditional brasato al vino con polenta (beef and grits) in one of the alpine huts, before descending deeper into the backcountry. Crossing through several small hillside villages on our way back, where again we enjoy switchbacks, bathed in the evening sun and taking in a stunning view across the lake towards Dervio. Maloja & Bernina The Maloja Pass is the main road connecting the Swiss city of St. Moritz and the Italian municipality of Chiavenna. It therefore suffers from higher traffic compared to alternative mountain passes in the region. Nonetheless, it’s an incredible road to traverse as it offers a stunning change in landscape, and culture. We depart from Dervio at dawn, leaving the lakeside towards the north. In the shade the air is cool, but as we cross the main river Adda and into the Valtellina valley we are greeted by sunshine and a strong headwind rushing down from the mountains. After a coffee, a croissant and a quick roll through the cobbled streets of Chiavenna, we continue towards Maloja; passing through several small villages along the road which slowly change in appearance, from typical northern Italian to a more Swiss aesthetic. The road winds and turns into tight switchbacks, and that’s when we hit Maloja Kulm and get a stunning vista back into the valley. With the sun now at our backs we ride through St. Moritz and south towards our second climb of the day – the Bernina Pass. Only 600m of climbing stand between us and the top, which seems like nothing compared to the 2000m already in our legs. As the sun lowers behind the surrounding peaks and the sky slowly turns crimson, we hurry down the 2000m descent towards Tirano, where we catch the train back to Dervio. A long day in the legs but recovery comes in the form of hot pizza and cold beers. Bellagio & Brunate Turning our attention towards the south, we packed our explorational spirits into our jersey pockets and headed along the lakeshore to Varenna. Here we had a quick look around before boarding the ferry to Bellagio. From there our main route would begin, eventually bringing us up to Brunate, a small town located right above Como. Riding rolling roads and with the warm sun on our faces really didn‘t make us think of winter as we continued our way along the lakeside. Steadily heading south through Casate, Nesso, Riva and Torno to name a few of the numerous little enclaves along the way, before finally arriving at the city of Como. Worth a visit just on its own, we decided to have a look around before hitting this day’s comparably smaller climb up to Brunate and its lighthouse located just above. And whilst riding through Como’s little alleyways and piazzas, we every so often caught a glimpse of our goal to the east, high above the city. Being this close, yet so far up meant only one thing – a lot of switchbacks and super steep roads. We quickly stopped for a motivational pizza. Turn after turn brought us higher up to Brunate, never really breaking free of the buildings and residences. Finishing with several stairs up to the tower left us carrying our bikes to the top, from where the whole area opens-up and one could probably see the Dufour Peak on a good day. With the sun setting fast during these winter days we quickly turned to our descent which brought us through the village of Civiglio, down very fast roads back into Como, from where we took a train home to Dervio. Colma di Sormano A maximum 27% gradient and over 300 meters of climbing in just under two kilometres, that is the Muro di Sormano. But riding it turned out to be so much more than just numbers. Escaping the bustling morning traffic in Lecco on the eastern shoreline, a harsh headwind thankfully becomes a tailwind as we direct ourselves towards the town of Asso. Diverting from the main road into Asso, we experience a wonderfully authentic northern Italian town, with tight cobbled alleyways and cafés on every street corner. We roll on up through Rezzago and Caglio, stopping right before the Muro di Sormano. We mentally prepare ourselves for what’s to come. The ’Wall’ is infamous for its stubbornly steep slopes, and we take a collective deep breath before clipping in and moving on up. Only a few metres further along and we’re already stood on our pedals, grinding out every bike length. Each metre is generously marked by graffiti – the total height written right onto the road itself. We ride over more art from adoring cycling fans – motivational quotes and the names and times of legends who have raced up here. A drive-through gate at the end indicates the top of this brutal climb, affording us a view over the whole region as we catch our breath. A fast descent brings us back down towards the north into Nesso, where we snake round switchbacks down to the lake and wind further down towards Bellagio. There we reward ourselves with some aperitivi and watch the sun set on the lake before taking a ferry back to Varenna. Madonna del Ghisallo It would feel wrong not to include the famous Madonna del Ghisallo in a guide to riding around Lago di Como. And we decided to make this our final day’s route. Being one of those decisive climbs in the Giro di Lombardia since the race began in 1905, its top is usually heaving with cyclists, all visiting the chapel marking the summit. Starting with a morning coffee in Bellagio, we made our way up the climb, which starts right outside the city limits and leads with varying gradients south towards Civenna, before the final switchbacks to the top. From there one can either take the main road down through Asso to Lago di Pusiano or take a detour at Barni as we did. Bringing us further up to the Ristorante la Madonnina di Barni, from where we ride over the eastern branch of Lago di Como to Lecco. Pressing on from there took us down a deep descent into Lasnigo, latching on to the main road to Asso. With the sun on its way down again, we tried to avoid the main highway as much as possible and turned into Civate, passing through quiet streets. This led us to Santuario di San Martino, a church with incredible views of the lake and surrounding mountains – this was a little parting gift at the end before we rode back into Lecco to catch our train. Further Riding Coins Cachés: Boulder, Colorado Nestled on the eastern aspect of the foothills of the Colorado Rockies, the city of Boulder is a unique and idyllic hub for outdoor recreation—including cycling. VIEW MORE COINS CACHÉS. SALZBURGERLAND Whether you are looking for a steep satisfying climb or a gentle Sunday ride, the Bavarian Alps have so much to offer, both on and off road. VIEW MORE COINS CACHÉS. CAMBRIDGE Explore roads less ridden along the flat, exposed Fenlands, over Belgian berg-like climbs and through the iconic backstreets of Cambridge. VIEW MORE COINS CACHÉS. JULIJSKE ALPE A hidden cycling paradise filled with high mountains, rolling hills, forest trails, and coastal rides. Stunning scenery best explored on two wheels. VIEW MORE COINS CACHÉS. ARIÈGE The Ariège rests on the border with Spain and Andorra and is a region rich in history which remains one of the most unspoilt areas of France. VIEW MORE

The Camargue – Between Sky and Sea There are places in the world that are sanctuaries for nature, where wildlife still seems untouched by modern life. The Camargue is one of those protected places, where the footprint of humanity is hard to find. The Rhône Delta forms the topography of this mesmerising habitat, a transition between the sea and the mainland. Its animal and plant life is exceptionally diverse. Birds are the VIPs, approximately 150,000 pass through every year, and the Camargue is home to 30,000 pink flamingos. The area is mostly flat, but a gravel bike is the vehicle of choice, as versatility is needed here. The mileage can be made more arduous if the mistral or the tramontane start to blow, and you will feel it in your legs, wheels and bones. Gusts can reach 100 km / h. On such a day a gravel bike is the wrong choice, instead a sailboat would be a much better option. Aigues-Mortes is an emblematic city of this vast territory. Its medieval walls are found in middle of the marshland, and only the salt mountains of the Salins du Midi exceed the tower of Constance, the highest point of the city’s imposing fortress. The city first appears in the history books in 1248, when Saint Louis supposedly set sail for Egypt and then Palestine on a crusade, departing from Aigues-Mortes. It is freezing cold in the alleys of the city this winter morning. We roll out along the embankment of the Canal du Rhône à Sète, the sun becomes more generous as the bikes begin to move at speed. Some sections of this route take us over boardwalks above the salty marshes, the wooden slats rumbling beneath our tyres. A road sign indicates 5km to reach the Tour Carbonnière, a 13th century tower, while the first flamingos appear in the surrounding ponds, undisturbed in their dozens. These imposing birds are an impressive sight. Feeding only on small organisms, the flamingo spends most of its time with its head underwater, making characteristic circles as it searches for snacks. With a hooked beak, the flamingo filters the salt water it receives, using its tongue to push the mud out of its beak to keep only what it wishes to eat. It is in what it ingests that lies the secret of its colour: pigments from Artemia Salina –a species of shrimp, and Dunaliella Salina ¬– a pink algae, are deposited on their skin and on their feathers giving them they’re iconic colouring. Their flights in formation over the marshes is breath-taking. This wonderful show needs plenty of time for an extended pedal-break, to drink in the surroundings before moving onwards. The last kilometres of the loop, which counts on the computer to just over 60, brings us back to the route’s starting point. As the horizon turns orange we stop at the beach to watch the sun slip into the sea. Further Riding Exploring the Morvan The Morvan isn’t easily explained. A mountainous massif lying in the centre of the undulating Burgandy region. VIEW MORE Tracks and Trails in the Ariège Five friends explore routes shared with the incredibly diverse range of four legged and airborne residents of the Ariège by bike. VIEW MORE A Tour of the Volcanoes of Auvergne Sophie Gateau explores the Auvergne region, where there are probably more cows than humans per m2, armed with our camera, a tent and a knife. VIEW MORE Tracing the Torino-Nice Rally A legendary gravel ride travelling from Italy to France. Sophie Gateau and Mathias Riquier explore the route ahead of the start of the Rally this September. VIEW MORE

Boulder, CO Nestled on the eastern aspect of the foothills of the Colorado Rockies, the city of Boulder (population ~100,000) is a unique and idyllic hub for outdoor recreation—including cycling. With its proximity to a network of canyons that weave through the hills to the west, and open, rolling gravel with views of the mountains (and Boulder’s iconic Flatirons) to the east, Boulder is a town that offers riders a wide variety of terrain to travel on two wheels. Boulder was founded as an outpost for prospectors who flocked to the area in the mid 1800’s and many of the canyon roads featured in the following routes were forged to facilitate these early settlers’ quest for gold (in fact, a very popular destination for cyclists is to the town of “Gold Hill”). And while the hunt for rare minerals was relatively short-lived, Boulder’s climate and landscapes (and Colorado’s broadly) continued to attract people drawn by the allure of an invigorating mountain lifestyle—not so different from today. Fortunately, in 1967 (as Colorado’s population continued to grow), Boulder residents had the foresight to vote into law a Greenbelt surrounding the city. By approving a slight increase in sales tax, the city was able to acquire some 30,000+ acres to remain undeveloped, and thereby maintain an undeveloped perimeter around the city for recreation and wildlife habitat. This, in large part, is why there is access in most all directions to superior riding just minutes from downtown. Trails to Moxie Bread Co. ALL-ROAD Sometimes a coffee and a pastry offer the best excuse to get out for a spin. This route delivers that—at the Louisville bakery Moxie—but takes riders there via scenic gravel paths, two-track and single track with sweeping views of the foothills and Flatirons that make up Boulder’s western skyline. The rockiness of the two-track is fairly short lived and the singletrack is quite smooth so any all-road or gravel bike should do the trick. Starting from downtown (routed here from a bike shop) connect a few of Boulder’s many bike paths to make your way south. At 11mi (17.5km), pick up the Community Ditch trail and follow trails for the next 11mi to Moxie in Louisville. The bakery occupies a refurbished house, one of the oldest buildings in town, and specializes in farmhouse breads and rustic pastries made using locally-sourced, freshly milled flours (some made from heirloom wheat). From downtown Louisville, a few more paved bikeways will bring you to Teller Farms, a gravel connection that boasts some of the best views of the peaks along the Continental Divide. Following Teller, turn west and cruise back to downtown. North Boulder Tour de Gravel ALL-ROAD This route serves up some of Boulder County’s finest, flatter gravel terrain. Staged from the center of town, the route heads north towards Boulder Reservoir and the surface turns to dirt at just 5mi/ 8km in. Keep an eye out for eagles and hawks as you circle the reservoir and crest a few rollers—these birds of prey love to haunt the skies in this area. Past the reservoir, the route continues to weave a line north, threading together low-traffic (though popular among other cyclists) bucolic county roads until its northern terminus in Hygiene. Hygiene is a small community (not much more than an intersection on the main street) but it is home to The Mountain Fountain, a small country store that caters to cyclists with a few cafe offerings and outdoor seating for hungry riders. The highlight of the route comes along the return trip south. After a short climb up Gun Barrel Hill, the wide gravel path narrows to the engaging and punchy two-track that makes up the East Boulder Trails. This section only lasts a few miles but in this direction it offers a fun and dynamic intermission. Be sure to check your speed on the descents as some of the turns are sharp! Two Quick Climbs ALL-ROAD At just under 18mi/ 30km but with 2200ft/700m of climbing, this route packs a quick punch via two short climbs just minutes from town. The first climb travels pavement on the ascent and switches over to dirt for a fast descent while the second provides the reverse—a gravel climb to a paved descent down one of Boulder’s most iconic roads. Staged from one of Boulder’s most reputable coffee shops, Boxcar Coffee, head west to access Sunshine Canyon. At 3mi/5km in, there is a short gravel cut thru that rejoins Sunshine Canyon but provides a little more time off tarmac (Timber Trail; mapped here)—take it if you want bonus dirt or continue on Sunshine. Turn off onto Poorman Rd (left) after just over 4mi/7km and 1000ft/300m climbed. This dirt connector weaves through stands of evergreens while offering a few views of the divide before the grade changes to a fast downhill. At the bottom of the hill, turn left of Fourmile Canyon Drive for a bit more descending. At the intersection with Boulder Canyon continue straight across onto the bike path and follow the path west until it ends at Chapman Drive. One of Boulder’s backyard gems, Chapman is a gravel road closed to motor vehicles that climbs up the backside of Flagstaff Mountain. At 2.5mi/4km up, the climb winds through the forested hillside to gain just under 1000’/300m, with the steepest sections at the bottom. Once at the top, turn left for the winding descent down Flagstaff. While this is a popular road for cyclists, it is more popular among tourists so keep an eye out for vehicle traffic when sweeping through the many hairpin corners. The route finishes by rejoining the bike path and closes the loop again at Boxcar, which shares a space with the gourmet deli, Cured, that specializes in cheese, charcuterie, wine and sandwiches. Grab a sandwich on baguette (and maybe another espresso) and call it a day! The Best Way to Nederland ALL-ROAD Bring your climbing legs for this one as this ride takes an indirect and, at times, steep route to the small mountain town of Nederland (elevation: 8,236ft/ 2510m). The route starts with gradual and scenic climbing heading west along the Boulder Creek Path. As this gravel path follows its namesake creek past rocky outcroppings to join Fourmile Canyon, see if you can spot any climbers doing laps at the backyard crag. The warm up continues on the lower paved section of Fourmile Canyon until abruptly turning left onto Logan Mill Road (9mi). The next 3mi include sustained steep climbing to gain 1200ft/ 365m but the views and position in the network of surrounding canyons make it worthwhile. A short reprieve brings you down to join Sugarloaf Road, and from here it’s another 14mi/22km and 2400ft/730m of climbing to reach Nederland. The climbing continues on Sugarloaf—with one welcome descent thrown into the mix—with the pavement eventually turning to dirt. Sugarloaf deposits you on the Peak to Peak HWY (which, should you want to skip the last section of dirt climbing, takes you directly to Nederland); turn left and follow it for just over a mile to pick up Caribou Road. Turning right on Caribou, a final gravel climb gives way to the landmark five-points junction. Take the option that points southwest to continue on Caribou and enjoy the victorious descent into Nederland. Nederland has a few cafes/ bakeries but the most popular choice among cyclists is undoubtedly Salto Coffee, with Crosscut Pizza vying for a close second. For a low-traffic and scenic route back to Boulder, take Magnolia Road. From downtown Nederland, turn left onto Big Springs Drive and ride the short climb up to Peakview Drive before briefly connecting back into the Peak-To-Peak HWY to gain the junction with Magnolia Road. Turn left onto Magnolia and enjoy the rolling gravel and open views. Be wary that when Magnolia returns to pavement, the final 5mi down makes for quite the brake-dragging descent with several hairpin turns and grades approaching 15%. Stay alert for a couple miles on Boulder Canyon until you can rejoin the Boulder Creek Path for a few leisurely final miles back to town. Triple Canyon Connector ALL-ROAD Starting off with a sustained climb up to the old mining community of Gold Hill, this route spices things up on the return by incorporating a few fun trail connectors. From downtown Boulder, head up Fourmile Canyon. Once on Fourmile the road climbs for nearly 9mi/14km, gaining some nontrivial elevation along the way, eventually turning to dirt and winding through a few small mountain communities before opening up to sweeping views of Boulder below. At the top of the climb, the Gold Hill Store (just west on Main Street from the junction) offers packaged snacks, drinks, and simple fare in the form of sandwiches, pie, espresso and other treats. Continue east and up a short climb on Sunshine Canyon Drive. After an initial snaking descent, don’t miss the quick left turn onto County Rd 83. Follow the road to its end and ride past a green gate on your left onto the Rowena Trail. The next 2mi offer mostly wooded, engaging singletrack with a couple rockier stretches that, depending on comfort level and tire size, should be mostly rideable on a gravel bike. Rowena brings you to Lefthand Canyon, which after the singletrack provides a long smooth descent. Turn right up Olde Stage Road, then make an almost immediate left onto the Joder Ranch Trail. The Joder detour includes a short slaloming climb along an open hillside, a quick descent into the trees followed by a climb over the ridgeline before a final fast gravel buzz back down to the plains. The final miles include more buff singletrack (stay alert for the cattleguards) and smooth gravel, before picking up bike paths back in town. Further Riding COINS CACHÉS. CAMBRIDGE Explore roads less ridden along the flat, exposed Fenlands, over Belgian berg-like climbs and through the iconic backstreets of Cambridge. VIEW MORE COINS CACHÉS. SALZBURGERLAND Whether you are looking for a steep satisfying climb or a gentle Sunday ride, the Bavarian Alps have so much to offer, both on and off road. VIEW MORE COINS CACHÉS. JULIJSKE ALPE A hidden cycling paradise filled with high mountains, rolling hills, forest trails, and coastal rides. Stunning scenery best explored on two wheels. VIEW MORE COINS CACHÉS. PAYS DE GALLES God's country explored on two wheels. Rides between two coasts, designed to explore routes and roads less ridden. Through the valleys and over the hills. VIEW MORE COINS CACHÉS. ARIÈGE The Ariège rests on the border with Spain and Andorra and is a region rich in history which remains one of the most unspoilt areas of France. VIEW MORE

Autumn colours of Seoul Seoul is quite a unique city. On the one hand, it’s a vast modern-day metropolis with skyscrapers, high-tech subways, and K-pop music culture. But, on the other hand, it’s a city of Buddhist temples, palaces and rich history of having been the imperial capital of the Chosun Dynasty. Back then, it was guarded on all sides by walls and gates with its boundaries extending to Namsan mountain in the south and Bukaksan mountain in the north, which acted as fortresses to guard the city against foreign invaders. Located along the Han River, and in more recent times, Seoul has been recognised as one of Asia’s most liveable cities with the second-highest quality of life globally. It also contains no less than five UNESCO World Heritage sites. Furthermore, with the popularity of road cycling in Asia on the rise, numerous pro-cycling events take place here, including the 2020 Asian Track Cycling Championships held at South Korea’s Jincheon velodrome. But, on the menu today is a scenic ride that takes us along the city’s beautiful Han River, up and over the iconic Namsan and Bukaksan mountains, and through the very heart of the city’s rich culture and history as we ride past the Gyeongbok Palace, which was built during Joseon dynasty in the 14th century. The summer months in Seoul are hot and humid and the winter months can be cold and freezing. It’s November when we ride, and this is the most beautiful time of year, where the weather is cool and crisp and a time when the city comes alive in waves of autumn splendour. The foliage of dazzling reds, burning oranges and rich golds are everywhere and provide the perfect backdrop to our ride. As is often the case, we meet at the Bango Bridge, one of the most famous meeting points for Seoul’s cyclists looking to ride the “Nambuk” route, which takes in the Namsan and Bukaksan mountains. Korea is a country of mountains. While these mountains aren’t the most challenging or scenic in Korea, they’re certainly the most popular Strava segments, given their convenience for Seoul’s urban cyclists. It’s a great way to get in some decent climbing without travelling outside the city. Although the Namsan and Bukaksan mountains only stand at a mere 300 metres in elevation, by connecting the two, you get a decent 1000+ metres of elevation on your Strava for this ride. The road that climbs up the Namsan to the iconic North Seoul Tower is a steady 4-5% gradient and only open to bikes and tour buses which keeps our ride somewhat conversational as we take in a few scenic views of the city as we climb. We soon reach the summit and marvel at the North Seoul Tower, a national landmark and number one tourist attraction in Seoul, where hanging love padlocks on the tower fence is a favourite tourist activity. We soon find ourselves descending at speed down on the drops and through the heart of the old part of Seoul and onto Gwanghwamun Square. It’s here where you’ll find the gate to Gyeongbok Palace. This “Palace greatly blessed by heaven” was once the heart of Korea and the power centre of the Joseon dynasty. The palace was also the home of the last Korean imperial dynasty to rule the nation before it became a republic. We always enjoy riding around the palace, arguably the most beautiful and grandest of all five palaces, with many lotus ponds, gardens and ornate statues. From Gyeongbok Palace, we ride through Seoul’s oldest neighbourhoods and onto Ewha Mural Village. It’s here in this scenic setting where we take a short break to share some snacks and admire the paintings and murals at this popular tourist venue. With fresh legs and high spirits, we set off back to Gyeongbok Palace, where Bukuksan mountain acts as a majestic backdrop and a reminder of the second climb of the day that we are about to attack. There are more than ten different routes up the Bukaksan to Bukak Pagoda at the summit, but we take the Bugak Skyway, the most beautiful driving route in Korea as the road twists and turns up and around the mountainside. The skyway is forested by think greenery, which looks even more spectacular in its autumn colours. The skyscrapers and bustle of city life soon fade behind us as we reach the summit where the Bukak Pagoda stands up tall in all of its glory. With its traditional Korean design, this octagonal pavilion is beautiful in all seasons, offers fantastic 360-degree views of Seoul and is especially famous for its views at night. The descent down from Bukaksan is one of my favourites, as it’s not too technical, and you can get down on the drops and just let the bike go and enjoy a few nice sweeping bends down to the bottom. We keep riding until we reach Samchungdong, where we decide to stop for lunch at a traditional Korean restaurant and enjoy a delicious feast of pork, soup and a few side dishes. Coffees soon follow lunch in an old traditional Korean style building with a garden full of bamboo trees and ginkgo leaves. Then, it’s time to hit the road again and head back to the Han River, cruising through the city streets and taking a scenic route that just seems to hug the Namsan mountain, and before we know it, we’re back where we started at the Bango Bridge. Today’s ride was relatively short at 50km, yet we achieved almost 1000 metres of elevation. As cyclists living in Seoul, much like other city dwellers, we live busy lives, so the “Nambuk” route gives us the chance to fit 1000 metres of climbing into our ride. In addition, it also lets us escape the urban metropolis for a few blissful hours as we become at one with nature. The global pandemic has prevented us from doing many things we love, except for cycling, where the appeal also comes down to freedom. Riding around Seoul in November is always our favourite time of the year as we get to enjoy the most spectacular views of Seoul in its autumn colours. Further Riding Échappée Seoul The best day on a bike is to go for a quick 50Km ride through the heart of city. Where the old and the new coexist and riding by night makes it even more spectacular. VIEW MORE Montagnes du monde #11 Before the modern-day cityscape took its form the city of Seoul was guarded on all sides by walls and gates. Seoul’s boundaries extended to Namsan in the south. VIEW MORE South Korea South Korea has an ever increasing cycling culture but in a city of almost ten million people, it can be hard to find space. It takes a little Seoul searching. VIEW MORE Global Locale series: South Korea Almost the entirety of it, from Busan to Seoul. 530kms through a country that is not much longer than that. VIEW MORE

Winter on the slopes of Mont-Ventoux On July 7th, Wout van Aert hurtled down the north face of Mont Ventoux on the descent to Malaucène and raised both arms in victory after having climbed the “Giant of Provence” twice in the same day on this gruelling stage of the Tour de France. On that day, the sun had bathed the spectators in its warmth. Thousands of cyclists had climbed the roads of Ventoux to watch the peloton pass by in those hot days of July. Like polar opposites, on this winter morning, when we pass through Malaucène, the sun has not yet risen. So 15km higher up at the car park at Mont Serin, one of two ski resorts in Ventoux, we put on our touring skis. On a bike, ascending the Ventoux from the Malaucène side is a classic route, but the experience is a little more unique on skis. In winter, the Ventoux takes on the appearance of a high, fearsome mountain, where for six months of the year, the summit is closed to traffic. In April 2021, three months before the Tour de France caravan paid a visit, a cold snap of weather passed through France, with a temperature of -30 ° C recorded at the summit of Ventoux. In French, “venteux” means windy, and the wind whips the Giant of Provence each winter, especially with the mistral winds. On November 19th, 1967, the highest ever wind speeds of 320 km/h were recorded - more violent than a tornado. This other side of the Ventoux is much less known to cyclists, who are fanatics about the Ventoux worldwide. In the 17th century, the inhabitants of this region were able to take advantage of this extreme climate. On the southern slope of the Ventoux, the farmers in Bédoin, equipped with picks and shovels, collected snow and ice from 1000 metres above and stored it in an ingenious snow pit. The proximity of Avignon, the “City of Popes”, generated a strong demand for a commodity difficult to make back then, ice. In the South of France, around the Meditteranean, meat and fish were neither salted nor smoked, and ice was the only way to preserve them. Eating fresh food and drinking cold drinks is the prerogative of the upper classes. Ice also has healing qualities. It can help stop bleeding, alleviate pain and stomach aches. In Avignon, at the Palace des Papes, under its imposing vaults, were coolers to ensure the preservation of this precious commodity. All of the surrounding towns, Carpentras, Orange, Nîmes and Montpellier etc., benefited from the supply of ice from Ventoux. The Ventoux ice was transported on the back of mules; however, the ice could lose as much as 50% of its volume during the journey. It was not until much later that the railways arrived to make this trade more accessible to everyone. However, with the advent of refrigerators at the beginning of the 20th century, the business of Ventoux ice became obsolete. From the Bédoin side, much like from Malaucène, those cyclists who have successfully reached the summit of Ventoux know how rocky the slopes are on the barren, lunar landscape towards the top. While traversing the snow-covered road with skis, we come across ski lifts and marked trails. The very idea of creating two ski resorts here seems absurd, to say the very least. Those ski slopes away from the tarmac roads require thick snow cover and exceptional conditions to slide with skis. This doesn’t spoil our pleasure though. When we successfully arrive at the summit, the temperature is -1 ° C, but it’s still early in the day, and a few snowflakes are swirling around in the sky as it starts to snow. The famous red and white posts are impossible to distinguish as the mist is thick. It’s deserted at the summit, and there’s no one to compete with us for the glorious selfie under the famous Mont Ventoux sign. The cold stings our fingers as we tighten our ski shoes and start the 6km descent. However, our skis quickly pick up a reasonable speed, which surprises us slightly. The Ventoux is seriously steep, so it’s with good reason that the ascent has always demanded a special effort. In five months, the snow will be gone; the sun will warm up the forest, and nature will emerge from its hibernation. The Ventoux will transform into its summer version, and its routes will re-open to the public. The bikes will resume their everlasting ballet in this great universe, and cyclists can again measure themselves against the Giant and especially against themselves. Further Riding It's Ventoux time When the organisers announced that the Ventoux would be climbed twice in the Tour de France 2021 edition, it was certain that July 7th was going to be a historic day. VIEW MORE Ventoux Times Two Scenes from the road side of the Mont Ventoux on Stage 11 of the Tour de France 2021. VIEW MORE The White Ventoux Climbing the infamous 'Bald Mountian' is tough in the best conditions. Sprinkle some snow and add some cold and the challenge becomes even more extreme. VIEW MORE Ça peak There is always a way to escape the madding crowds, in this case it's gravel. Finding fun on Mont Ventoux's G-Side. VIEW MORE

Exploring the Morvan The Morvan isn’t easily explained. A mountainous massif, and perhaps an abnormality, lying in the centre of the undulating Burgandy region, surrounded by vineyards, villages set back in time and full of rich medieval history. Lying in between four French regions, the Morvan is the smallest district in France and loves to give the impression of being a fortress. Seen as an impregnable mausoleum in the sky, with its resistance past and a political symbol of French cultural identity. But, that’s not what draws us here. Travelling to the Morvan is like taking a step back in time, and for those who love cycling, it’s a rich treasure trove waiting to be discovered. Many cyclists are now rediscovering this isolated Regional Natural Park, which is relatively inaccessible, extremely rural and has temperamental weather, yet is easy to get to from Paris or Lyon. A little piece of no man’s land in the very centre of France. Elise, Sophie and I already know that our rain jackets will play an essential role in this Halloween weekend. As is often the case, our adventure begins with the diesel-powered Regional train service, where the experience starts as soon as we leave the station. With its winding cobblestone streets and traditional stone and wooden buildings, Avallon is considered the urban centre of the Morvan and the northern gate from which to enter the massif. From here, the Massif Central stretches down across the middle of Southern France, and this highland region, with its mountains and plateaus, covers about 15% of mainland France. In short, we are about to embark on a three-day labyrinth journey, made up of gravel tracks through thick pine forests, and twisting, deserted roads which are often covered with a strip of moss, autumn leaves and a nice layer of water to top it off. The downpour of rain on the hotel veranda at breakfast on the first day confirms our worst fears. We take an extra espresso for courage, and then we attack the first kilometre, which is often the hardest to conquer. Lormes, Km 30. As crazy as it may seem, the Morvan is almost even more attractive in bad weather. Our first climbs are short but steep as the gradients top 20%. The isolation and solitude already feel delightful and will only increase as the weekend continues. It’s rare to see any villages, and the tiny roads appear to have been beautifully drawn with ulterior artistic motives. We stop at a bistro, which is lively as everybody who lives here knows one another. Then, with full stomachs and high spirits, we hit the road again to attack our first sections of gravel, some of which have been flattened by previous rainfalls. As we approach the central part of the Morvan, we find ourselves riding past a network of large artificial lakes created in the 19th century by damming several tributaries of the Yonne and Cure rivers. Back to the rain, which is by now less severe than we expected, and will soon disappear and leave the landscape covered in a beautiful mist. We find ourselves passing through the tiny hamlets of Porcmignon and La Chaume, with their evocative sounding names, before we reach the commune of Brassy for our daily snack, where we sit down in the only open restaurant and enjoy the breeze. We have three more climbs left, the most striking of which is the one that takes up to the central square in Ouroux-en-Morvan. If we had come to find the most beautiful vista, this is undoubtedly the most iconic of them all. We can barely see the facades of the buildings, and the few cars that dared pass deserve a part in any Hitchcock novel. Not so much as a metre of flat, and we soak up the magnificent, isolated roads that just seem to meander up the side of the mountain. After a difficult night’s sleep in Château-Chinon, we are about to tackle the most significant chunk of the weekend, a large part of which will be on the tarmac. It takes us the best part of an hour to reach the Southern part of the Morvan via a winding route that takes us back to the North-East so we can ride on one of the most beautiful gravel sections of the whole trip, which crisscrosses at around 700 metres above sea-level. We have these stunning gravel tracks to ourselves as they take us past La Socrates Maquis, the main encampment of the Morvandelle Resistance during WWII. At Haut-Folin, we find ourselves at the highest point of the Morvan, at over 900 metres, back on gravel tracks again, and the mountainside offers up a maze of cross-country ski trails that just seem made for our bikes as we test them to their very limits many times over. Happy but exhausted, the hardest part is still ahead of us - Mont Beuvray. This is a huge physical challenge, with its seemingly unpassable slopes, the magnificent panorama of Celtic ruins, and eerie looking undergrowth. The view is impressive, but the dark clouds coming in from the west are less so. But, we survive and reach the spa town of Saint-Honoré-Les-Bains, which is quietly tucked away in the Morvan and renowned for its healing qualities. The warm welcome reinforces the good first impressions we receive at what must be the only pizza flea market in France. There’s a Tim Burton horror film on TV, which couldn’t give us a better Halloween feel to our trip if we tried. To portray an image of the Morvan being frozen in time would be false. We discuss this on the last day of the ride as we leave this special place, climbing up the winding foothills to reach the Nivernais, which takes us to the very edges of the Loire valley. As with every time we enter such a parallel universe, we are deeply touched by the desire to maintain a particular way of life, with its natural surroundings, an incredible sense of solidarity and warm welcomes. A bit of a cliché, maybe? Probably in part as we’re just passing through. The fact remains that times are changing, yet this region seems to succeed in the feat of staying true to itself and safely tucked away from all the problems in the world that we have right now. It also provided us with a limitless cycling playground. Further Riding A Tour of the Volcanoes of Auvergne. Sophie Gateau explores the Auvergne region, where there are probably more cows than humans per m2, armed with our camera, a tent and a knife. VIEW MORE Tracing the Torino-Nice Rally. A legendary gravel ride travelling from Italy to France. Sophie Gateau and Mathias Riquier explore the route ahead of the start of the Rally this September. VIEW MORE Badlands: The Ultra Distance Gravel Race. Sophie Gateau tackles Badlands, an unsupported off-road race through Andalusia, made up of around 725km and 15,000m of altitude gain. VIEW MORE Back to Brittany For bikepacking in between the brasseries. Are kilometers per beer a new cycling metric? VIEW MORE

Badlands: The Ultra Distance Gravel Race Badlands is an unsupported off-road race through Andalusia, made up of around 725km and 15,000m of altitude gain. The route begins in Granada, in the south of Spain, travels through two deserts, then snakes along the Mediterranean coast before climbing back up into the mountains of Sierra Nevada. It’s the start of September and we’re setting off early this morning. There are around 200 of us, we are like horses scraping the ground impatiently, ready to let it rip. It’s an impressive line-up – we are joined by a former Olympic champion and a mountain biking champion, the crème de la crème of extreme long distance, as well as a host of cyclists hungry for a new adventure. I signed up to this race with my friend Adrienne, and it’s rather different than what I’m used to. The photographs of the landscapes showcased by the race organisers made us want to see them up close. I have never ridden in the south of Spain, let alone in a desert. The day before the race, with temperatures already super high, I started to doubt my set up, so I added a third water bottle and an XXL-sized bottle of sun cream. The route starts midway up the mountains on an uneven track which zigzags through arid terrain. The olive groves become rarer as we go through the day. By 10.30, it’s already more than 40 degrees. We decide to stop, as soon as we find any kind of shade, to cool down. The scenery is sublime. We enter the National Park of Sierra Nevada, and we climb a scorched col. We meet a solitary golden cow who seems to wonder what we’re doing here. We ride along the white trails, taking advantage of the freshness of the lessening heat as the day wanes, and finally, we set up our bivouacs on a plateau under a sky filled with thousands of stars. The night is a lively one – a boar comes to rummage through the bushes by our feet, local farm dogs chase it away and, finally, a herd of goats with incandescent eyes pass by, rounding off the animal parade. The sun rises late in southern Europe in this season. We set off again in the middle of the night to get some hours of riding in the cool under our belts, before we must face the crushing heat again. After many twists along steep paths, we reach the strange town of Purellena, located in the Hoya of Guadix. Lots of cave homes are built into the hills in red clay. Orange dust is everywhere, and it gets into every nook and cranny of our bikes so that they start to squeak. Freaky insects, snakes and other unknown creatures will hear us coming from a mile away now. At the end of the morning, we arrive at the first checkpoint, Gorafe. A wall, in the form of a mountain, towers before us. The route does a loop in the desert and we pass exhausted cyclists who are coming back from it. One of them tells us that this section is extremely difficult and that there are no waterpoints. We learn that several participants are suffering from heatstroke and there are a number of cyclists abandoning the race. For me, the aim of this adventure is to go as far as I can. Adrienne and I decide to short-circuit this loop, so as not to use up all our ammunition – too bad about the race since, effectively, we are disqualified from here on. The course crosses an austere flat plain. It’s still over 40 degrees, there are some olive trees and almond trees planted in the rocky fields. The wind picks up. Even if it’s not in our favour, the faintest circulation of air becomes a luxury that we appreciate enormously under this suffocating heat. We reach the village of Gor, in the middle of which a large fountain presides. Lots of racers cool off, take a nap or refuel before the next difficulty - a long col half road, half gravel which climbs up to 2000m. We attack the climb while the sun is setting and make camp in the middle of the long ascent. A sheepdog barks at us in the middle of the night, no doubt displeased with us settling too close to its herd. I think I’m going to have to revise my notes on ‘how to find a good bivouacking spot’. We pedal onwards in the pitch black of the early morning. The end of the climb is a wide and gentle track – the sun rises in time for our arrival at the top. We enter the Sierra de Baza nature reserve. After crossing a dry zone without any trees, we reach the highest point of our journey, the summit of the col of Calar Alto. Many observatories have been installed here, no doubt the view is clear and unobstructed. Next up, a 25km descent – one which should be ranked in the top 20 most beautiful descents – along perfect tarmac, with breathtaking views and no sign of a single car. It takes us down to the village of Gergal, the doorway into the Tabernas desert. We sleep just at its edge, as bivouacking is banned there. Crossing a desert at sunrise is a magical experience – the amazing views come one after the other. We ride through sand in the middle of canyons and we walk, pushing our bikes on trails which line the cliff edges. We explore abandoned villages, and we go through places where several Western films were shot. The next morning, we arrive at the foot of the ‘plastic sea’, a huge terrain covered with white plastic greenhouses which are used to make the tomatoes grow intensively. This part of the race leaves a bitter taste in our mouths. The Mediterranean is finally in view. It is a deep blue and the water is clear. We couldn’t resist a quick dip before continuing our route along the coast. A path hanging over the cliffs takes us to Cabo de Gata, a nature reserve for birds and a site with volcanic origins. We see a lot of flamingos here. The sun is setting, we still have 30km to go until Almeria, the big city in which we had planned to spend the night. But we are out of luck – this section is covered in sand all along the beach. It will take us about three hours to get through it. We meet two Swedish participants and we each weigh up our chances of completing the race before tomorrow’s 8 PM deadline. There are still 200 km left to go, with 4000m of elevation gain. All four of us agree that the challenge is impossible. It’s finally time, then, for a long overdue and well-deserved beer. Further Riding A Tour of the Volcanoes of Auvergne. Sophie Gateau explores the Auvergne region, where there are probably more cows than humans per m2, armed with our camera, a tent and a knife. VIEW MORE Tracing the Torino-Nice Rally. A legendary gravel ride travelling from Italy to France. Sophie Gateau and Mathias Riquier explore the route ahead of the start of the Rally this September. VIEW MORE 7 Majors Sophie Gateau takes on the challenge of the 7 Majors of bikepacking. The route is a 345 km loop with 10,000 metres of elevation change through the Southern Alps in both France and Italy. VIEW MORE Riding With Purpose #2. Cycling the empty streets of Paris to deliver food to those in need, Sophie Gateau documents the capital city during the lockdown. VIEW MORE Back to Brittany Bikepacking in between the brasseries. Are kilometers per beer a new cycling metric? VIEW MORE

Tracks and Trails in the Ariège I’ve always been fascinated by animal tracks and trails and the birds that fly high above them. I have spent countless hours watching birds and will follow the paths of unknown animals wondering where they’re going and where they’ve come from. The routes I ride often share the same terrain, the impressions in the ground a clue to who resides there and the songs in the trees a giveaway for the birds who make their lives there. The Ariège is home to an incredibly diverse range of four legged and airborne residents, from wolves and bears to eagles and vultures and a plethora of animals in between. Tomás and I came up with a plan to combine our love of nature and the bike and use it as a tool to widen the search area. We invited good friends Lucie and Lea along for the ride and using the skills of photographer Joe (a self-confessed natural world addict and a human encyclopaedia of Ariège flora and fauna), we plotted a mixed terrain journey into the wildest parts of the region, to seek out more of our indigenous neighbours... It’s a strange feeling when your destination is an unknown spot visible from your starting point but that’s the position we find ourselves in and for the next 24 hours we will journey across the Ariège; leaving Zero Neuf and the northern fringes of the region we’ll head to its high southern ridges and the border with neighbouring Spain and Andorra. We will ride, push and carry our bikes as we make our way to a mountain top rendezvous with Joe and a night under the stars. The topography of the Ariège is extremely varied and our route begins on a wide double-track chemin alongside the river l’Hers. We are moving over open farmland; this is passerine territory and home to deer and hare, badgers, genets, stoats and coypus. A kingfisher darts across the water as we ride by and kestrels hover above us searching for lunch. A stop in Mirepoix for bread and cheese and that means a visit to Chez Lucie; a wonderful fromagerie and delicatessen in the centre of town. After much deliberation, we opt for a local ‘tomme de brebis’ and a ‘tomme de chèvre’. We’ll pause for lunch alongside the river in the picture postcard village of Camon so that means the next section of the route is along a disused railway line and with more tree cover, the birdsong is a blissful mix of black caps and nightingales. As we near the high mountains, we ride through meadows filled with wildflowers and the sound of skylarks fill the air, a reminder of walks with my grandfather and one of my favourite bird songs. There are tracks everywhere, likely to be wild boar but it’s hot and they are deep undercover sheltering from the sun. I imagine them watching us wondering what on earth we are doing in their backyard. We head into the Gorge de la Frau, an ancient path connecting the Aude and Ariège, with 400m high walls of limestone on both sides. A protected area, this is the home of golden eagles, a host of other raptors and birds, rare flowers and bats amongst others. This is ‘hike with a bike’ territory and as we make our way slowly up the rocky slopes, our bikes balanced precariously on our backs, we are left in constant awe of the scale and beauty of this landscape; we are so very lucky to be here. We’re above 1,000m now and up on a magnificent plateau, orchids and butterflies everywhere. The landscape is changing and our mountain top destination and home for the night is looming above us. There are reminders everywhere that we are riding amongst the region’s wild inhabitants, their homes and hunting grounds, we are privileged visitors to their world. A short-toed eagle soars above us hunting for an evening meal as we make our way up to our route’s highpoint and our rendezvous with Joe and his partner Emilie. It is time to hang the hammocks, open a beer and watch the sun as it sets behind the high mountains and the frontier with Spain. True to Joe’s word, the mountain’s resident marmots are up by the time we are brewing our morning coffee. It’s a highlight of the trip watching them sunbathe flat on their backs and they’re certainly a unique breakfast companion. The tracks and trails we followed to reach this point had given us much and with our eyes and ears well and truly open, the joy of riding the bike was elevated to a new and enriching level. This is the experience, adventure and escape we can all feel when we immerse ourselves (responsibly) in nature. Further Riding Coins Cachés: Ariège The Ariège rests on the border with Spain and Andorra and is a region rich in history which remains one of the most unspoilt areas of France. VIEW MORE This Is Further The adventure race where ultra-endurance meets hike-a-bike and where pushing beyond the norm produced both an exciting battle for the win and dramatic fights simply to finish. VIEW MORE Tracing the Torino-Nice Rally A legendary gravel ride travelling from Italy to France. Sophie Gateau and Mathias Riquier explore the route ahead of the start of the Rally this September. VIEW MORE Jurasick Park The PCR Gravier collective is back with its latest adventure – a grand traverse of the Jura mountains. But did they find any dinosaurs? VIEW MORE