Travel deep: hiking the Mercantour
There are many different ways of travelling. In the spring and summer, it’s good to travel far, and travel fast; but in the autumn, with months of adventures in the legs, it’s time to travel deep. In the high backcountry behind Nice lies the Mercantour National Park; many of our favourite roads pass through it, like the Col de Turini and Col de la Bonette, both of which will feature in the final stages of the 2024 Tour de France. But because of the terrain and the park’s regulations – which forbid any development or construction, any off-road cycling, any hunting, mushroom picking and even dogs! – there are vast areas that are inaccessible even to mountain bikes.
These are trails and passes you can explore only by foot. We set off for a late-season hike in the last of the year’s sunshine, to deepen our knowledge of the spaces between the roads. The aim was to do a tour of Mont Bégo, a 2,872-metre-tall mountain in the heart of the park whose flanks are covered with bronze-age rock carvings. Why they are there, nobody knows, but these hidden valleys have been regarded as special – sacred even – for thousands of years. Away from the trailhead, we were quickly swallowed by silence and light.