Bread and cycling; it could be argued that these are two staples of French life. Of course, those at the serious end of the cycling scale professionals and amateurs alike used to hollow out the baguette and simply eat the outer crust on the misunderstanding that it helped them stay lean. Nowadays, professionals avoid it altogether, or so they would say – we have witnessed one local professional end a five hour ride with a pass-by the boulangerie for a ‘recovery baguette’. Everybody loves French bread.

Steeped in history, boulangerie is a métier of passion. In France, where some regard the price of bread as the short term trigger to the revolution and therefore the birth of the Republic in 1789, du pain is a source of conflict. The boulangerie profession must feed the people, but also has to be regulated to maintain standards and to prevent the artisans of yeast and flour working around the clock, seven days a week. So Boulangerie Lagache is shut every Tuesday because the government demands it.

Legislation was passed in 1920 to prevent the boulangers starting before 4am. “It is forbidden to employ workers making bread and pastry between ten in the evening and four in the morning.”

Four o’clock in the morning is early enough for even the hardiest of cyclists. There is no half-wheeling at this hour, especially with Mont Chauve on the menu. A touch over five kilometres at a steady 8% gradient is a testing enough breakfast. The things we’ll do for a pain au chocolat.

Because, of course, not all bread is savoury. The croissant is to the sweet-toothed weekend warrior what the baguette is to the hungry post-workout professional. A guilty pleasure of layered dough and butter that puffs with excitement when ready. Just don’t tell anyone an Austrian invented it. It’s crescent shape isn’t dissimilar to that of the curves of the Mont Chauve mountain which are traversed by the road the first set of hairpins before the barrier and the second, tighter set that take you to the Fort on the peak.

Here we take in the view of Nissa La Bella and her contours that are exposed by street lights. With low cloud and no moonlight the sky and the sea merge into one dark mass. Beyond the range of the bike lights who knows what is out there - that's part of the thrill of riding in the dark, if done with a friend. The cold air begins to speak up, and it’s time to descend back towards the warmth of the ovens and the gifts that they give.

Since modern legislation was introduced, you must have a level V diploma (CAP: Certificat d'Aptitude de boulanger) or higher to be certified as a boulanger. As with most walks of life, qualifications on a piece of paper are only the start. Monsieur LaGache has been a Maître Artisan for over three decades and that experience is evidenced by the queues out the front door when we arrive back in front of the boulangerie. These are the best baked goods in this particular corner of Nice.

A bag of croissants and pain au chocolat are collected and we race to La Prom in the hope that the clouds have cleared and the sun will set the bay alight. It doesn’t happen but that’s alright, we have the best of French baked goodness to tide us over.