Anton Krupicka: Farewell to Winter According to the popular adage, the ride should be about the journey not the destination. However, with traces of winter snowfall still blanketing Boulder’s iconic Flatirons and still more signs of the lingering winter season holding onto the high peaks, a recent overnight trip to a local hot spring proved to be about both the journey and the destination too. For my partner, Anton Krupicka, and myself, the journey provided two longer days of riding to season our legs for the forthcoming demands of Spring and Summer rides. Split across the weekend, our 145-mile (233km) round-trip route clocked in plenty of climbing (16,000ft/5,000m) and took us from our doorstep in Boulder, Colorado to the state’s original gold rush town of Idaho Springs. Our destination – a small hot spring at a quaint historic hotel – provided ample motivation to brave higher elevations and enforce two consecutive full-days on the bike. The route opened with bucolic miles out of Boulder with the accessibility of low-traffic gravel routes being one of the area’s greatest gifts to cyclists. The foothills that border Boulder to the west and compose the Front Range are riven with canyons of varying grades and, even though it is the longest continuous local climb, Lefthand Canyon offers one of the more modest grades, averaging around 4% for the full 18-miles required to reach the Peak-to-Peak Highway. True to the forecast, we were greeted by a stiff western breeze, which then turned to punctuated gusts low down in the canyon. Fortunately, the close canyon walls soon acted as a shelter, rather than a funnel, and we were heartened by our progress as we soon found ourselves on the final steep pitches through the small community of Ward, without much worry paid to the wind. The climb took us to the Peak-to-Peak Highway – an iconic, undulating bi-way that boasts sweeping corners and impressive views of the Indian Peaks range. In warmer seasons, you’d be hard pressed to pass any stretch of this classic road without spotting other riders, but today in late winter, we covered the 12 miles (19km) into Nederland without seeing any moving vehicles. Nederland sits at 8,200ft (2500m), versus Boulder’s temperate 5,300-foot (1600m) and we were glad to stop at cafe Salto for hot sandwiches, soup, and coffee. We rode out the 20 remaining miles to reach Central City with our heads mostly down due to a fierce wind. We took the descents much slower than usual, and I spied Anton unclip a foot on a couple of the corners, lest a powerful gust initiate a spill. The sun was already obscured by the surrounding peaks as we reached Central City and the last climb of the day. An 1,800-foot rise took us out of town, from pavement back to gravel, and to the aptly named descent down Oh My God Road which, with its slinking s-curves and unobstructed views of Mount Evans, is indeed divine. Once the sun had disappeared, though, we could have cared less about the divinity of the OMG descent as we reached our hard-earned destination of Idaho Springs. Teeth near-chattering, we hit the first gas station in town and immediately downed a hot chocolate, while holding our hands over the hot dog roller. In short order, we made it to the hotel, had a pizza delivered, and were soon pruned-skinned and thoroughly warmed by our stint in the tub—a luxurious end to an invigorating day on the bike. We started day two with an incredible breakfast at the Main Street Restaurant, a lowkey diner that serves up eye-popping plates, such as our three-egg omelets, slab of hash browns, and two slices of banana bread (which we pocketed for later). Well-fueled, we started up Little Bear Creek Rd— an addition to our route which would add a 3,500ft (1,050m) climb and earn us views of the high mountains strung along the Continental Divide enchainment. Ice-crusted roads turned to clean snowpack higher up and we cruised the serpentine corners talking casually while enjoying the muffled crunch of our tires on the surface beneath. Rolling at around 11,200ft (3,400m), we had reached the literal and psycho-emotional high point of the trip, where we pointed out the familiar profiles of known peaks—Evans being the closest, of course, and then, in the receding distance, Grays, the pyramidal Torres, James and Arapahoe Peaks, and furthest still Longs Peak, perhaps the most iconic of the Front Range and—at 40 miles from Boulder—our “local” mountain. At Echo Lake, we turned back northeast for the 15-mile (25km) return descent to Idaho Springs. While the wind so far had been non-existent and the sun was shining high, the sub-freezing air temperature made the downhill into town painful. Being nearly nauseous with the cold, we opted for a second round of coffees at the Frothy Cup. Afterall, if you can’t stop for a second cup in Winter, when can you? Fortunately, the rest of the day was warm, and our spirits high. Our return ride included much of the same roads we had taken to arrive. A sweat-inducing climb up Oh My God Rd brought us back to Central City and from here we opted for an unsealed shortcut back to the Peak-to-Peak Highway. Whilst this stretch had a hefty grade, it was low traffic and offered a backroads feel that we both appreciated. A blustery western cross breeze characterized the next 12-mile stretch until we eagerly turned east, making our foe a friend in the form of a tail wind through the rollers of the downward-trending Magnolia Road. Aside from some unexpected slush lingering on Magnolia’s shaded, infamously-steep corners, the rest of the ride passed without incident. Rolling back into town in the early evening, it felt like we had pulled one over on Old Man Winter by sneaking up to 11k’ and were thereby gifted the motivational lift that summer would be here before we knew it. Further Riding Caravan: Anton Krupicka I enjoy the adventure of cycling, especially bike packing. For me though, it’s just being in the outdoors, seeing beautiful landscapes and using your body. VIEW MORE Coins Cachés: Boulder, Colorado Nestled on the eastern aspect of the foothills of the Colorado Rockies, Boulder is a unique and idyllic hub for outdoor recreation—including cycling. VIEW MORE A Traverse Across the Pyrenees Each summer, I set off on an adventurous trip with good friends who are up for a challenge. This year we tackled the Pyrenees. VIEW MORE A Mont-Blanc Gravel Tour I find myself constantly craving nature. I’ve thought about doing a Gravel tour of Mont Blanc for so long, so this seemed like the perfect time. VIEW MORE

Ride of the Month: Searching for La Primavera The joy of the new season is difficult to put into words, patiently waiting through winter for spring weather, its arrival signals a kind of revolution. The Italians have, unsurprisingly, a beautiful name for springtime – La Primavera. In the world of cycle racing, La Primavera may also refer to Milan–San Remo, the ‘spring classic’ and one of the most prestigious events of the season. Known as the longest (almost 300kms) and arguably most beautiful of the one-day monuments, to win this trophy is to have your name chiseled into history. But only if you’re a man. Female road racers still only get to watch Milan-San Remo on the screen, or perhaps wearily cheer their male counterparts from the roadside. There was, for a few years in the early 2000s, something called the Primavera Rosa, a shortened version for the ladies which ran before the gentlemen’s event; Trixi Worrack was the last woman to win that race, in 2005. Currently the women have the Trofeo Alfredo Binda in Lombardia (Binda is a celebrated male racer who won Milan-San Remo twice, funnily enough) on the same weekend as Milan–San Remo, and it is always hotly contested, with the masterful Marianne Vos having won there four times. But it's no ‘Classicisima’, it cannot compare to the spectacle of racing from the confines of industrial Milan out to the beauty of the Ligurian coast. Now, in 2022, with the women’s peloton having their own version of some of the biggest races on the calendar like Paris-Roubaix and the Tour of Flanders, they want to see Milan-San Remo on their schedule too. Of course, that’s not to say the women’s sport cannot or should not have their own specific events, but to achieve parity, things must be equally distributed; opportunities open to all. Whilst the governing body of world cycling, the UCI, and race-organizers, RCS, get their act together, the roads are still free for us to explore the route in question. ‘The growth in women’s cycling justifies adding bigger races to the calendar. There should be equal chances. With such a strong number of Italian females at the top of the sport now, Milan-San Remo would be a beautiful addition. Nothing is too long or too tough, women are capable of competing on the same parcours as the men, which was demonstrated back in October at Paris-Roubaix. Everybody wants to see more of those thrilling occasions.’ – Stefanie And so it was, in early March, four of us, in Café du Cycliste colours, took off in search of the elusive Primavera, passing over three borders, beginning in Nice, across to Monaco, and up into Italy. We weren’t looking to ride all 298 km of Milan-San Remo, but instead rode along the coast as a sort of pilgrimage up to the two famous climbs of the race – the Cipressa and the Poggio. We rode as a happy unit and chatted about how great it would be to one day share stories of female racers battling to victory again on these roads. Instead, as we crossed the border into Italy from Menton we talk about riders like Vincenzo Nibali and Julian Alaphilippe, men who have had the honour to race up the Poggio di San Remo. We take the cycle path in Ospedaletti and on towards San Remo itself – riding eastwards from Nice we must first pass through San Remo before arriving at our intended targets of first the Cipressa climb, and then back to the Poggio. With views of the sea always at our side, we each in turn suffer but camaraderie and the promise of spring gives us the energy to punch our way up. As we each arrive we see the famous phone box marking the top of the climb. We all take in the view and share a photo before the famous twisting descent back into San Remo. Further Riding THE TOUR DES ALPES MARITIMES The Tour des Alpes Maritimes is an early test for hill racers. But we ourselves are not here to race. We’re here to discover what the Riviera has to offer the amateur cyclist. VIEW MORE LE SAUT DES FRANÇAIS Exiting Nice from the north side, this ride provides a healthy mélange of architectural and natural landmarks, with a side of local legend. VIEW MORE CHRISTMAS IN PROVENCE In Provence, Christmas lasts 40 days. In the small village of Luceram, nativity scenes have become a sacred tradition for its inhabitants. VIEW MORE URBAN GARDENING IN MONACO A ride that goes further than the normal nourishing experience, climbing the iconic Col d’Eze en route to Monaco in search of a model turned urban gardener. VIEW MORE THE RESILIENCE OF THE HINTERLAND In October 2020, Storm Alex hit the valleys in the hinterland around Nice and the whole landscape was permanently altered. VIEW MORE

Ride of the Month: The Tour des Alpes Maritimes The Tour of the Haut Var, or to give it its official title the Tour des Alpes Maritimes et du Var, has been running since 1969. The winner of the inaugural race was none other than Raymond Poulidor, icon of French cycling in the 1960s and 70s. ‘Pou-Pou’, as he was affectionately known, had other success at the spring races, winning one day prizes Milan-San Remo in Italy, Flèche Wallonne in Belgium and stage race Paris-Nice, twice. The Tour du Var is seen as a warm-up to the more prestigious Paris-Nice, known by some as the ‘Race to the Sun’ (or a ‘roll to the beach’ for others). This race in the Var is an early test for punchy hill climbers and mountain goats, with its three voluptuous stages telling you who has been training well during the off-season, or not. More recent winners of the event are Colombian Nairo Quintana and Thibaut Pinot, Burgundy’s top grimpeur. But let us slow down the pace for now, we ourselves are not here to race. We are here to ride and discover precisely what the Riviera has to offer the amateur road cyclist – beauty in abundance. For this month’s ride we take the route of stage three of this year’s Tour des Alpes Maritimes (won by Quintana last Sunday) – from Villefranche-sur-mer to Blausasc. It’s a testing parcours, 113 kilometres with 2300 metres of climbing – so it’s no stroll on the promenade. It’s a beautiful crisp spring morning, and with legs and arms fully covered, and sunglasses firmly on, we set off from Villefranche’s old town. Rolling with the steady, mellow pace of a coastal breeze, the heart-rates of our riders soon crescendo as we reach the mythical, lung-busting Col d’Èze. If you can reach the top in under half an hour, you’re either in fine form or your eyes are deceiving you. The Col’s apex rewards with views of the ocean and the Cap-Ferrat peninsula; and a refreshing recovery on the descent, gulping in the fragrant Mediterranean air. La Turbie is the crossroads that every Riviera rider stops at to refill bidons. Its iconic fountain is just one piece of a mosaic of cobbled streets, olive trees and tranquil hillside buildings. Villages such as Peille perch cosily, and you can see snow on top of the mountains beyond. You may also spot the idyllic training ground of French Ligue 1 club AS Monaco, former employers of Thierry Henry and Kylian Mbappé. The green turf happily hugs the hillside above the sea. We are challenged by switchbacks on the descent from Peille, swooping through olive tree groves, and riding past Blausasc, the location of the finish line and home to yet another picturesque hillside church. Rolling on we take in the rock forms and azure blue that gives the coast its name, punctuated by the yellow fire of the mimosa. And then another climb, Col de Nice, 17km, with an average of 2.3%, with a couple of 9% steep sections. But the col brings us to another beautiful commune, Berre-les-Alpes, where the olive trees are replaced by chestnuts. A chilly descent down to Contes, and maybe a stop at Boulangerie Lefebvre to refuel – we still have the toughest part of the route to come. The Col Saint Roch isn’t the most famous climb in the Alpes Maritimes, but it is devilishly hard. It’s dual personality – with a smooth easier first section, and then a steeper and tougher second part – can catch you off guard. The first half ends at Coaraze, possibly one of the most beautiful of all the hillside villages in the Côte d’Azur and infamous for being a place where the villagers once caught Satan by gluing his tail to the flagstones. Once you leave Coaraze, you may feel your own tail is being dragged to the tarmac, with 12% gradients testing energy and resolve now with roughly 80km in the legs. Reaching the top at 2000m above the sea, our intrepid riders think about continuing the ride up to Col de Turini, for another 15km of alpinism. But the choice was made to turn left down towards L’Escarene, enjoying switchbacks of the Monaco Rally before heading at speed into the valley and down to Blausasc for coffee and pastries. Ride of the Month LE SAUT DES FRANÇAIS Exiting Nice from the north side, this ride provides a healthy mélange of architectural and natural landmarks, with a side of local legend. VIEW MORE CHRISTMAS IN PROVENCE In Provence, Christmas lasts 40 days. In the small village of Luceram, nativity scenes have become a sacred tradition for its inhabitants. VIEW MORE URBAN GARDENING IN MONACO A ride that goes further than the normal nourishing experience, climbing the iconic Col d’Eze en route to Monaco in search of a model turned urban gardener. VIEW MORE THE RESILIENCE OF THE HINTERLAND In October 2020, Storm Alex hit the valleys in the hinterland around Nice and the whole landscape was permanently altered. VIEW MORE

ANTON KRUPICKA My introduction to running was racing on the track at school. I went to university here in Colorado, and moved to the town Boulder, in the mountains, and that’s when I became interested in racing ultra-marathon. In 2006 I did the Leadville Trail 100 and was fortunate to win there and that launched my career as a professional ultra-runner. I've been lucky enough to race all over the world over the past fifteen years. The Leadville Trail, The Western State 100 here in North America, then internationally, I've been to Ultra Trail du Mont Blanc twice, then Lavaredo in Italy, which I won. I've been all over the world doing races – Australia, South America, and South Africa. But I still love racing at home here in Colorado. A race I did in Gran Canaria sticks in the memory, you traverse the entire island and there was a full moon during that race. We spent all night running across the island – it was a magical experience. I ride my bike more than I run now. Cycling is nice because it doesn’t injure my body and you can cover distances that aren’t possible on foot. I prefer gravel cycling. When you have wide tyres it opens up the options, more trails to explore. It's good to go on the road to connect trails or segments but in general I like to stay off the road. Obviously the nice thing about running is that it’s simple, there’s no mechanical devices to hold – it's just a pair of shoes, a pair of shorts. But I do enjoy the adventure of cycling, especially bike packing, the multi-day trips. For me though it’s just being in the outdoors, seeing beautiful landscapes and using your body. I think a love for the outdoors is something that develops as you go through life but for me I think the origins of it, growing up in a farm in Nebraska where I had a lot of land to explore, I certainly gained an intuition for being in nature. At the moment, I'm riding four or five days a week. Sometimes I run and ride in the same day but generally I run three or four days a week and ride my bike five days a week. Climbing is another activity I like. Right now it’s winter in Colorado but generally I climb a couple of times a week. It's just another way of being outside – you highly engage with your surroundings. instagram @antonkrupicka strava Anton Krupicka “ Where I Ride? Whilst competing internationally I’ve had the chance to bike around Chamonix, a little bit in Italy and also in South America. But I love the riding here in Colorado. One day I’d like to do some kind of international bike tour. ” “ What I Ride? I prefer gravel cycling. When you have wide tyres it opens up the options, more trails to explore. It's good to go on the road to connect trails or segments but in general I like to stay off the road. ” “ Why I Ride? I enjoy the adventure of cycling, especially bike packing, the multi-day trips. Cycling doesn’t injure my body like running and you can cover distances that aren’t possible on foot. ” Related Stories Coins Cachés: Boulder, Colorado Nestled in the foothills of the Colorado Rockies, Boulder is an idyllic hub for outdoor recreation—including cycling. VIEW MORE Farwell to Winter It is said that the ride should be about the journey, not the destination. However, for Anton Krupicka and Hailey Moore, a recent trip in the Colorado mountains proved it’s about both. VIEW MORE Mount Blue Sky Mount Blue Sky sits at an elevation of 14,265 feet (4,348m) above sea level. The road to the summit happens to be the highest paved road in North America and presents a pretty compelling opportunity to cyclists. VIEW MORE BACK TO THE CARAVAN

Ride of the month: “Le Saut des Français” Exiting Nice from the north side, this ride provides a healthy mélange of architectural and natural landmarks, with a side of local legend. The route leads up into the mountains without any particularly challenging climbs, before wrapping things up with a peaceful descent back down to Nice. Highlights include an artificial waterfall overlooking the bay and an infamous cliff hugging the side of the Vesubie valley. After navigating the way up through Nice Nord, pass under the motorway to find yourself at the foot of the mountains. The first port of call on the winding road is the Cascade de Gairaut, an artificial waterfall built in the 19th century to mark the introduction of the Vesubie canal. The waterfall was designed to oxygenate the drinking water that passes down into the city, or into your bidon. With the smooth sound of cascading water in your ears, enjoy the splendid view of the “ Baie des Anges”. The route then flows up towards the eccentric abode of a local favourite. Ben Vautier, known simply as Ben, is a Nice-based artist whose signature handwriting can be seen scrawled across tram stations and even public toilets all over Nice. He is most famous for his scrawlings, often brief meditations on life such as ‘Il faut manger. Il faut dormir.’ His main residence does not disappoint. Standing proudly against the rolling green hills, it resembles a giant haywire papier-mâché. A mishmash of hundreds of colourful pieces are plastered across the front of his house, featuring lone bike wheels, various handwritten slogans, and other sculptural curiosities. Leaving the chaotic beauty of modern art behind, snake around the foot of Mont Chauve, passing a constant stream of houses nestled into the side of the mountain. Follow the road until you reach Aspremont. Ruins are all that is left of the château that once defended this village. However, the view from them over the Var towards Antibes is magnificent. Continue along the meandering mountain road until you approach the medieval village of Levens. The number of cars will begin to thin out significantly, allowing you to ascend the gentle climb without any great difficulty. The village itself features a charming bell tower sitting atop a rocky outcrop, overlooking both the Var and Vesubie river valleys. The traditional homes and cobblestone streets that wind down from the top of the hill are waiting to be explored and provide the perfect backdrop for a quick coffee or ice cream break. Picking up again and heading further into the mountains, you will pass through Duranus. Upon leaving the village, you will find yourself on the side of a spectacular cliff, now the subject of a local legend. In 1792, Nice was not yet French. Faced with French republican troops trying to flee the region, local resistance fighters from the County of Nice formed a militia named the Barbets. Captured prisoners were made to jump over 200m to their deaths into the Vesubie valley. The cliff has since taken on the eerie name the Saut des Français. This section is best tackled in the afternoon when the route, etched into the steep rocky face, is bathed in sunlight. Once you hit Béringuier, take a left and begin the smooth descent towards the Var. Returning to civilisation, a bike lane allows you to spin south at pace, providing the wind is on your side. Once you hit Saint-Laurent du Var, follow the cycle lane along the water’s edge and take the Promenade des Anglais as your victory lap as you return to the centre of Nice. Further Riding CHRISTMAS IN PROVENCE In Provence, Christmas lasts 40 days. In the small village of Luceram, nativity scenes have become a sacred tradition for its inhabitants. VIEW MORE URBAN GARDENING ON THE ROOFTOPS OF MONACO A ride that goes further than the normal nourishing experience, climbing the iconic Col d’Eze en route to Monaco in search of a model turned urban gardener. VIEW MORE THE RESILIENCE OF THE HINTERLAND In October 2020, Storm Alex hit the valleys in the hinterland around Nice and the whole landscape was permanently altered. Chris retur VIEW MORE THE MONTS D'AZUR A 1300m climb to explore the wild animal reserve of the Monts d’Azur and ride the thrilling descent down the other side, through tunnels cut in the rock. VIEW MORE

Nissa La Bella Through the Seasons A city by the sea but not only. A place in the sun but not just. Nice is like no other and riding is in its soul. The hills and highs, the cols and climbs. The back country that spreads out in three directions and goes up, up and up. It is a cycling paradise twelve months a year and always, always, worth a visit. Three hundred and sixty five day fun. 1. Nice - Quai Lunel - Pointe de Rauba-Capeu; January 2. Sospel; February 3A. Mont Ventoux; March 3B. La Bonette; March 4A. Esterel; April 4B. Nice - Mont Boron; April 5. Nice - Vieux Nice - Cour Jacques Chirac; May 6A. NICE - Promenade des Anglais; June 6B. Gordolasque; July 7. Nice - Promenade des Anglais; September 9. Roubion - Col de la Couillole; November 8. Galibier; October 10. Galibier; December

Christmas in Provence: The Nativity Scenes in the Village of Luceram In Provence, Christmas lasts 40 days. Starting on the day of Sainte-Barbe, on the 4th of December, and lasting until Candlemas day on February the 3rd. During this festive period, many local traditions and customs take place. These include planting “Christmas wheat” in three cups on the day of Sainte-Barbe, the Christmas “big supper”, which is a special dinner, with thirteen desserts, eaten before going to midnight mass on Christmas Eve as well as Christmas markets. One of the most beautiful traditions, in which Provençals have become famous over the years, is nativity scenes and Les Santons (“little saints”), which remain more popular in the villages than in the cities. A few kilometres from Nice, on one of the roads leading to the Turrini Pass, is the small village of Luceram, strategically located on a mountain outcrop and where the tradition of nativity scenes has become a wonderful tradition for its inhabitants. This is our “Ride of the Month” destination for December. Leaving the Café at the Port in Nice on this first day of winter, Marie and Audrey look up at the uninviting sky. Rain and snow could both make an appearance today, with the snow-capped peaks visible from afar on the Mercantour side. Their route will take in the Saint Roch pass and up through the Paillon valley to reach Bendejun and Coaraze, which is the last village before the Col. From the Port of Nice, this will involve an ascent of almost 1000 metres before descending on the drops to the medieval village of Lucéram, which is very crowded this time of year and for a good reason. After Bendejun, the “route du soleil” takes cyclists through many varied landscapes. Shortly after leaving the coast, the temperature becomes much cooler and humid as the bikes reach the banks of the river and the rich forest undergrowth in between Contes and Bendejun. The atmosphere then becomes much more Mediterranean in the final 10 kilometres, where the imposing trees have disappeared and are replaced by a rocky landscape with much drier and sparser vegetation. At a few hundred metres before the pass, it’s always satisfying to glance back and admire the tight switchbacks that have been conquered magnificently. This route is yet another wonder in the cyclist paradise that the remote countryside of Nice offers. There is what sounds like an ever-increasing commotion as you approach the tiny village of Lucéram. The laughter and children’s games echoing from the narrow streets confirm the rumour: the Lucéram Christmas nativity scenes trail (“Circuit des Crèches”) is teaming with visitors. This is a unique and magical spectacle with no less than 450 Christmas nativity scenes of all different shapes and sizes, made by the locals, in every nook and cranny of the village. The place is unique because the entire population seems to have devoted themselves to individual expressions of creativity. The tradition of Christmas nativity scenes that first used les santons seems to have been established in the 13th Century by Saint Francis of Assisi, who in 1223, before celebrating Christmas mass, organised a live Nativity scene in a village in Italy. It’s about recreating the birth of Jesus over two thousand millennia ago in a stable in Bethlehem, a small town 10 kilometres from Jerusalem. This biblical story is about Mary and Joseph, the parents of Jesus, who couldn’t find a room to stay in, so took refuge in a stable, at which point Mary gave birth to Jesus in a manger, which the crib represents. This remarkable historical story features shepherds and three wise men who came to worship the newborn child. But here in Provence, you see a different nativity scene with small, handcrafted figurines (les santons) of the village baker, beekeeper, fisherman and more of the region’s villagers used in nativity scenes to depict Provençal life. As a result, Les Santons have become the Provençal symbol for the Christmas season. These miniature clay figurines are handcrafted by local artists, with fairs and markets entirely devoted to them as the Christmas holidays approach. In the narrow cobblestone streets and medieval archways of Lucéram, Christmas nativity scenes are everywhere. Audrey and Marie decide to get off their bikes and walk deeper into the village to take a better look. There are nativity scenes in every nook and corner of the village - on windowsills, fountains, porches and sometimes entire cellars, chapels, and even the communal oven. The smallest could fit inside a hazelnut shell or oyster shell, and the largest are several metres long and can fill an entire room or even the village square. This is an out of the ordinary, magical show of collective celebration, friendly and inventive. With the smell of mulled wine and stewed gnocchi floating around in the air, it’s time to return to Nice. The generous portions of wine and gnocchi served here are a good omen for this rather unusual descent. But, unfortunately, the bitter cold has started to set in, so Marie and Audrey must ride home fast to Nice. Further Riding URBAN GARDENING ON THE ROOFTOPS OF MONACO A ride that goes further than the normal nourishing experience, climbing the iconic Col d’Eze en route to Monaco in search of a model turned urban gardener. VIEW MORE THE RESILIENCE OF THE HINTERLAND In October 2020, Storm Alex hit the valleys in the hinterland around Nice and the whole landscape was permanently altered. Chris returns one year later. VIEW MORE THE MONTS D'AZUR A 1300m climb to explore the wild animal reserve of the Monts d’Azur and ride the thrilling descent down the other side, through tunnels cut in the rock. VIEW MORE COL DE VENCE The Col de Vence is an unforgiving climb, renowned for it's desert-like landscape, beautiful views of the Mediterrean Sea and the absence of an escape from the blazing sun. VIEW MORE

Alba de Silvestro I was a downhill skier but I moved to alpinism because I was looking for something more. I was running for training during the summer and I was doing well competing in local races. A friend said Skimo was perfect for me, combining skiing and running. I tried just for fun and fell in love with this sport - it’s a beautiful way to explore the mountains. Now I compete in the World Cup, an international Skimo circuit, in which there are three different stages. The first one is sprint. The second one is vertical, it's 20 minutes only uphill - you have to push very hard. Last is the individual race over varied terrain which is my favourite. I have never won the World Cup as I am not a sprinter, and the sprint races are very important. But I have won several stages, with my first victory being three years ago in Andorra. The best part of skimo is that you don’t need the lifts or the slopes, you can go whenever you want, to places which no-one else can reach in the mountains. For me, it is not just about the racing for me but a love of nature and the outdoors. Now I live in Albesaggio and train in San Giuseppe but I grew up in the Dolomites near Cortina which is my favorite place to ski. San Giuseppe is good for skimo, but nothing can compare to the beauty of the Dolomites. If I had to summarise skimo in three words they would be beautiful, freedom and mountains. The similarities with cycling are endless. The uphills and downhills, the fun, the endless opportunities to explore so many different roads and routes. The feeling of satisfaction when you reach the top of the climb and get ready for the descent. For me there’s only one difference between cycling and skiing, it’s just the season – one is for winter and the other is for summer. instagram @albadesilvestro strava Alba De Silvestro “ Where I Ride? I usually ride around Albessagio as there are a lot of good climbs like in Valmalenco and Chiareggio, also Di Gera e Di Campomoro which was in the Giro d’Italia for women. I also love training in Corvara, where we can climb Passo Pordoi, Valparola, Passo Gavia - I think it’s the best place for cycling in the world. ” “ What I Ride? I really like road cycling and I am riding three or four days a week during the summer. I also like MTB but I'm definitely lacking a bit of technique so it can be quite unnerving. ” “ Why I Ride? For me, I feel you can really explore with a bike. I don’t cycle with the intensity that I ski or run with so it is much less stressful. Sometimes I push hard in some climbs to see where I can go, but that’s all. It’s my passion. ” Related Stories BIKE TO SKI At 1600m up, deep within the Mercantour National Park, surrounded by snow-covered peaks, the pick-up truck is being loaded two by two. VIEW MORE SUMMIT SYMPHONY What better way to finish the winter season on the Côte d'Azur than by combining hours in the saddle with a day in the snow on two skis. VIEW MORE Tackling Kühtai, a Tyrolian wonder Snow has just started to whiten the top of Kühtai - a mountain which holds a special place in my heart and the perfect location for a pre-ski season climb. VIEW MORE BACK TO THE CARAVAN

Tackling Kühtai, a wonder of the Austrian Tyrol, with Sarah Bacher As we move into autumn, snow has started to whiten the tops of the Alpes de Stubai massif which surrounds the valley of Innsbruck. For this year’s winter season, I decided to settle in Innsbruck. I still have a month’s preparation left before things really get started, but I’m already so looking forward to letting it rip. Seeing the first flakes fall gets me impatient and I’m so excited by the thought of getting on my snowboard and hurtling down my first descent. This town was unveiled to the cycling world during the 2018 World Championships, but I already know it pretty well. My path ended here many times when I came to ski in the surrounding ski resorts. Lots of my friends live here too, including Louisa, who’s accompanying me on today’s outing. The advantage of Innsbruck is that its terrain is really versatile. You can cycle along the flat bank of the Inn River, just as you can venture up the neighbouring mountain slopes, where summits can reach over 2000m in altitude. Louisa and I met at school. It served as a specialist school for skiing. We have kept in touch ever since. At the time, I was already partial to snowboarding and Louisa to skiing. Unfortunately, she suffered several knee injuries and had to quit racing . She then discovered a love for cycling, which leads us to the here and now. It’s going to be awesome to share my training sessions with an old friend on Tyrol’s superb roads. It’s Louisa who will serve as our guide today, and her advice is going to be important for me as I climb the giant of the Alpes that is Kühtai. These last few months I’ve put my cycling on the back burner a bit because my training has already started. Each day, I train for two hours. I spend this time out running to work on my balance and core strength, or at the gym, doing weights. On other days, I spend my time revising my lessons online. Since September 2021, I’ve been studying for a university course about dietetics. The programme focuses on top-level athletes and I will complete it in 5 years instead of 3. This winter, with training, travelling and competitions, I won’t be able to dedicate as much time to cycling as during my off season. Kühtai has a special place in my heart because it’s there that I participated in one of my very first competitions. I was 10 years old when I took a trip across to Austria to battle against all the other young skiers from the country. Each year in fact, a series of competitions bring together all the junior winter sport competitors, an opportunity to spot the future talent. I won third place at my first competition and it’s a fond memory of mine. It all started from that moment and things quickly snowballed. I was worried that today’s weather wouldn’t be on our side because autumn in Innsbruck can be quite unpredictable - the weather can do a 180 on you. But luckily, we had sunshine all day long and the temperature was mild, at about 12 degrees (except at the summit, where the snow was waiting for us and where the thermostat showed sub-zero). We tackle the climb at a good pace: 23 km of up-hill riding is on the menu. Louisa advises me to keep some gas left in the tank to get through the long and hard 1km climb at 15% (with parts at 20%) which starts at kilometre 11. We reach this wall that rises up straight in front of us – it’s really quite impressive. Once we’re passed that, the kilometres go by quicker, just as the landscape becomes more and more breathtaking. The last 4 km are the icing on the cake – the beauty of the place makes us almost forget the 18 km of hard work our legs have already endured, not to mention the cold wind that freezes our cheeks. We pass snow ploughs heading in the opposite direction and the descending cars have snow on their roofs, all signs that we’re getting close to the summit. Soon, snow is added to the frame and borders the road, making our ride even more epic. And there we are! We reach the summit. We stop for only five minutes, immortalising the moment with a picture in front of the “Kühtai 2020m” sign, before wrapping up to brave the glacial descent. I always enjoy the descent, I like the feeling of freedom, the sensation of flying. It reminds me of snowboarding. But today, the cold paralyses my fingers and tenses my muscles, which makes it less pleasurable than usual. Thankfully, the magnificent views and the sun warm us up a little bit. This ride will surely be the last one of the year for me, the cold and the snow are coming quickly. I turn my sights towards the imminent winter season. But this little escape has already given me some ideas for new cycling adventures next spring, and why not Innsbruck – Nice ? Further Riding Sarah Bacher: an Introduction As a snowboarder hoping to make the Freeride World Tour, cycling for me is a great endurance training but also another exciting way to explore the mountains. VIEW MORE Caravan A collective of like minded sports people bonded by a shared love of cycling. Their reasons for riding are varied but they all have a common passion for exploring on two wheels. VIEW MORE Guillaume Néry: A Traverse Across the Pyrenees Each summer, I set off on an adventurous trip with good friends who are up for a challenge. Last year, we bikepacked through the Alps and this year we tackled the Pyrenees. VIEW MORE A Mont-Blanc Gravel Tour with Etienne Hubert After the last few months of training and the Olympics in Japan, I find myself constantly craving nature. I’ve thought about doing a Gravel tour of Mont Blanc for so long, so this seemed like the perfect time. VIEW MORE

URBAN GARDENING ON THE ROOFTOPS OF MONACO A few kilometers from the port of Nice, Monaco is our destination of the day. It may be one of the smallest countries in the world, but it’s also home to some of the biggest legends in the cycling world - Peter Sagan, Primož Roglič, Cadel Evans and Geraint Thomas have all made Monaco their home. On the menu today is Monaco via the Col d’Eze - a road made famous by the Paris-Nice race, however Rani, a cyclist and mountaineer, takes the road less travelled on the most improbable gravel paths. Rani is a researcher working at the University and leading the Master’s degree on land revitalisation, so she’s always in search of innovative solutions, like Jessica Sbaraglia’s Terre de Monaco - a start-up urban agriculture business responsible for the organic vegetable gardens sprouting up all over the rooftops of Monaco. The goal is to reach Menton by lunchtime, going off the beaten track along car-free backcountry roads. The first stop is Gorbio, a stunning medieval village perched on the side of a hill, with olive trees rising up all around the village. On this sunny day this vantage point offers panoramic views out across the Mediterranean, as the Turbie fountain helps quench the thirst from climbing the Col d’Eze. With the bidon filled it’s time to jump back onto the saddle and continue the journey. Ten kilometers further, as if balanced on the very edge of the cliff, sits the Maybourne Riviera luxury hotel, with its white modernist architecture providing a striking contrast against the deep blue sea. The right to disfigure such a beautiful landscape could one day be forgiven, but for now the building remains nothing more than a curiosity before descending on the drops at full speed to Menton and eventually to Monaco thirty minutes later. Bordered by France and the Mediterranean, Monaco is the world’s most densely populated country and to increase its living space the only way is up, literally, as Monaco’s towers increase in height. The tiny sovereign state of Monaco is widely recognised for being one of the most expensive and wealthiest places on earth, with one in three of its 40,000 inhabitants being a millionaire. Rani met Jessica, urban gardener extraordinaire, at the foot of the Odeon Tower - a 170m skyscraper, on top of which sits the world’s most expensive apartment - a symbol of Monaco’s exorbitant real estate market. Monaco may seem a less than ideal place for farming, yet Jessica knows the only way is up with her 450 m2 urban garden on the rooftop, with its fruits, vegetables, edible flowers, herbs, chickens and beehives. This is a garden unlike any other and it arouses the curiosity of Rani the researcher. For Jessica, founder of Terre de Monaco, nothing is impossible. She wanted to create urban gardens in Monaco and with the help of local businesses and a crowd-funding campaign, the first organic gardens started to spring to life on the rooftops of buildings and luxury hotels in 2016. Sprinting ahead to 2021, five spaces are being exploited with an area of 1600m2 now under cultivation, producing 4000 kilograms of fruit and vegetables. The model is simple, the produce is sold to the inhabitants of the buildings or to chefs from Michelin star restaurants at the large hotels with rooftop urban gardens - whatever is in the garden, they can cook next! What is really incredible is the utopia of revitalizing these small urban spaces using the values of organic gardening and permaculture - no pesticides or chemical fertilizers are used and this form of urban agriculture is an innovative framework for developing sustainable lifestyles. Jessica’s ambitions aren’t just confined to urban agriculture, she’s also inspiring school children in Monaco - almost 3000 children a year enjoy a fabulous field of awareness and awakening in these tiny cultivated spaces. The urban roof garden at the Monaco hospital also provides patients with a way to help boost their mental health, with many choosing to spend their time working there. The young entrepreneur also leads seminars, does consulting with top Michelin chefs and is looking to take her vision of sustainable urban agriculture abroad, including a new project at the huge Outlet Center in Belgium which has 10,000m2 of roof space that can be cultivated. “There are three of us running the business today,” said Jessica, who went on to say “this is the first time in 5 years that I’ve taken a week's vacation, it takes a huge amount of dedication and self-sacrifice to achieve the results you see here today.” For Rani, this innovative economic model for sustainable urban agriculture is something very unique to include in a University course. She plans to invite Jessica for conferences at the University to speak about her experiences and inspire the students. Back to Nice, another beautiful autumn day on the Côte d'Azur is drawing to a close. The bike rolls at speed on the Basse Corniche road where the ocean swell throws its spray towards the mesmerizing sunset. It was more than just a ride today. It was a chance to dream, to rethink our reality, and to consider how to transform the way we live in a place and consume. A sunset state of mind, which resonates with the words of Théodore Monod: "Utopia is not the unrealizable but the unrealized." Further Riding THE RESILIENCE OF THE HINTERLAND In October 2020, Storm Alex hit the valleys in the hinterland around Nice and the whole landscape was permanently altered. Chris returns one year later. READ MORE THE MONTS D'AZUR A 1300m climb to explore the wild animal reserve of the Monts d’Azur and ride the thrilling descent down the other side, through tunnels cut in the rock. READ MORE COL DE VENCE An unforgiving climb, renowned for it's desert-like landscape, beautiful views of the Mediterrean Sea and the absence of an escape from the blazing sun. READ MORE ROSE DE MAI Heading for the foothills of Grasse, and its Rose de Mai. Flowers in full bloom and early season climbs combine to produce a beautiful spring ride. READ MORE PARIS - NICE Paris- Nice didn't end as it should this year but the roads not ridden are still there. A local classic that says spring has arrived. READ MORE

A Mont-Blanc Gravel Tour with Etienne Hubert Tokyo is now behind me. The Olympic Games take months of preparation and involve strict constraints – weeks and months of self-sacrifice. The results weren’t quite what I was counting on, but there were new lessons to be learnt once again. Paris 2024 will no doubt be my last Olympic Games. I know that I’m still obsessed with the desire to give it my all and to win, so I’ll do everything I can to get there. But right now, I’m craving wide open spaces. After the last few months of training and my weeks spent in Japan, it’s impossible for me to get back to normal daily life without the crucial step of submerging myself in nature, reconnecting with life’s simplest things and, for a few days, pushing myself to tackle every difficulty thrown at me. I’ve thought about doing a tour of Mont Blanc on gravel for a long time. I’ve researched routes and gathered stories about it. As a map fanatic, I’ve dissected them to find the best route. For me, the ideal itinerary is the one which goes via as many paths as possible, and which veers off the built roads to get as close as possible to the paths. Gravel still has to mean rideable though, so that the epic doesn’t turn into an epic ordeal. I’m giving myself 3 days to do this – it needs to be a realistic time goal, given that, at the start of October, the days have become extensively shorter. I went on a quest to find friends who wanted to share this tour of Mont Blanc with me. Having friends on board for this kind of experience transforms it from a sport and nature mission to a true party. For Patrick, who lives in the Mont Blanc region, it didn’t take long to convince him. He had just completed the same tour by road, so the desire for something more original and, at times, a bit more hazardous really tempted him. And so, we set off. We packed light. I completely threw my usual principles out of the window, such as riding in total autonomy, bringing everything for my meals and nights with me – that’s to say, bringing the very minimum. This time, we reserved a few nights in small hotels that were still open at the end of the season. I hope I’m not becoming middle class, but I don’t think so. The whole length of the journey I imagined myself riding with a bit more gear, making my den wherever the path took me. Admittedly, the bike’s setup could have been a bit different because certain sections of the ride favoured bikes that are equipped with good suspension travel, as opposed to our semi-rigid gravel bikes, which were often more than mistreated. As for the route, we set out to complete an itinerary of 220km with 7500m of elevation gain over 3 days. The weather was supposed to worsen on the last day, but in reality, we had ideal conditions for the trip. The rain that was expected on the last day created a kind of debate, we talked about it with hikers and other cyclists on electric mountain bikes that we met. The glass half empty people promised us hell so far as the weather and the mountain terrain that awaited us were concerned. The glass half full kind predicted the best scenario possible. You should always listen to the optimists; these kinds of people help us move forwards in life. We had the best weather and the worst of the mountain terrain made us smile. We upheld our rhythm of 2500m of elevation gain per day, sometimes a bit more. Every chance we had we took the off-road option, even if it was very rough. We pushed, we carried, we also fell, but we always got back up, nothing too nasty. On the second day, we covered only 14km by 1PM, so we had to eat up 70km in the afternoon, followed by a pretty hazardous descent in the dark along the road going from Cormet de Roseland to Beaufort. We took time to lift our noses up off the handlebars and observe, appreciate, meet people. That’s what I like about this kind of adventure, and it’s why I’m never reluctant to go alone if no one wants to come with me: the people you meet are always great and never disappoint you. To embark upon a trip like this is to make yourself available and open to meeting people. And it always works. I have plenty of projects in mind – explorations by bike, on cross-country skis or by kayak. I’m even thinking about combining several of these modes of transport into one experience. I’m really into the combination of bike-cross-country skiing for this winter. I’ll start looking for a potential playground for this idea – a new Caravan story to come! Further Riding Étienne Hubert: an Introduction As a World Champion sprint canoeist, cycling has always been a key part of my training routine but also a great way to socialise and explore hidden routes. VIEW MORE Caravan A collective of like minded sports people bonded by a shared love of cycling. Their reasons for riding are varied but they all have a common passion for exploring on two wheels. VIEW MORE Guillaume Néry: A Traverse Across the Pyrenees Each summer, I set off on an adventurous trip with good friends who are up for a challenge. Last year, we bikepacked through the Alps and this year we tackled the Pyrenees. VIEW MORE The Morvan The Grande Traversée du Morvan ('GTM') was built into a route consisting of more than 400km of track through huge fir forests. It's so good it's certified by the French cycling federation. VIEW MORE

Storm Alex: The Resilience of the Hinterland A year ago, on the 2nd October 2020, local authorities put Nice and its hinterland on red alert. Storm Alex, an Atlantic depression, was recategorized as a ‘volatile storm’ by weather reporters, which was heading towards the South of France. Schools in the area were closed for the day and businesses were asked to send their employees home. Nobody yet knew where and how the storm would hit. The coast endured more destructive storms than usual, but it was the valleys in the hinterland around Nice, in France and in Italy, that paid the highest price and were indefinitely marred by the uncommonly violent weather event. 18 people died, hundreds of homes were washed away, roads were destroyed, bridges were torn apart, and the whole landscape was permanently altered. To live in the back country is to choose a much harsher way of life than in urban areas. The economy there is fragile, it takes a long time to get around, supplies are harder to come by, comforts are very often limited to the bare minimum and access to technology for communicating is often unpredictable. Beyond the trauma that it caused, Storm Alex made daily life much more complicated for thousands of people – the majority of them became severely isolated. In Roya valley, the roads were heavily impacted for months on end. The touristic train of Merveilles, which goes from Nice to Tende, became the lifeline of the valley overnight. In some villages and hamlets, lanes and pathways were the only accessible routes. One year on, this region is still trying to get back to normal life – the resilience of the valleys has been tested to its limits. It’s October 2021, Chris is boarding the Merveilles train with his gravel bike, returning to the region a year after the storm. The aim of the day’s ride is to meet local residents and contemplate everything that is hopeful. After a two-hour journey alongside the mountain, the train arrives into Tende, just a few kilometres from the Italian border. There’s hustle and bustle in the little village bakery and the morning sun is just starting to shine into the alleyways – it’s going to be a beautiful day. On the menu today are two cols, Brouis and Braus, but that’s for later. Chris is using the first part of his day for a little detour around the village of La Brigue, where a chapel called Notre Dame des Fontaines miraculously survived last year’s floods. The parallel between Storm Alex and the history of this building is captivating. In the 12th century, very probably after an earthquake, the water sources in La Brigue dried up, leaving its inhabitants faced with the worrying situation of drought. Villagers vowed to build a chapel dedicated to the Virgin Mary if water returned to its sources. The miracle came true, and the chapel was erected on the site where seven streams sprouted from the rocks. The phenomenon is clear for visitors to see today. The little church remained intact inside and out, even though it was built on the edge of one of the streams which was turned into a river on the night of the 2nd October 2020. Though it appears to be a modest building from the outside, the chapel conceals a priceless treasure inside. It’s like looking at a smaller version of the famous Sistine Chapel: the nave of the building is home to over 200m2 of paintings dating from the 15th century. With its 26 frescos depicting the Passion of Christ, one can familiarise themselves with the beliefs and superstitions of the time. Flawlessly preserved, although never renovated, these paintings, which use a technique particular to ‘distemper’ painting, have stood the test of time with incredible freshness, giving visitors an absolutely marvellous sight to behold. The path which goes around the chapel is none other than the salt road, a superb gravel track on which we’ve already lingered, and where we’ll have to return. The fact remains that this little piece of road between Saint Dalmas de Tende and the chapel is bursting with intriguing things, enough to distract any curious rider: look out for the huge, abandoned lime kiln and the remarkable so-called Rooster Bridge. It would be a shame not to see them. To access the two cols which lead back to Nice, one has to follow the Valley de la Roya road for about 15 kilometres. A year on, the sight is still horrifying. Despite the important reconstruction work already undertaken and the round-the-clock activity of the specialists working there, the scars from the storm are still obvious and they are proof of the power of water. In Breil sur Roya, the road follows the col of Brouis. This place is testament to a different period in time – a monument dating from the Maginot Line stands here. The fort built on the col of Brouis consists of an artillery block which could station over 170 men, sent there to protect access to the col at the beginning of WW2. Awaiting Christopher in Sospel is the final challenge of the day, the col of Braus. The last 800 metres of climbing feels like a formality. Following that, the road slopes downhill towards Escarène, and quickly leads back to the outskirts of Nice. The days ends at the Port, and then, Nice’s Old Town, after an emotionally and historically rich expedition. Further Riding THE MONTS D’AZUR A 1300m climb to explore the wild animal reserve of the Monts d’Azur and ride the thrilling descent down the other side, through tunnels cut in the rock. READ MORE COL DE VENCE An unforgiving climb, renowned for it's desert-like landscape, beautiful views of the Mediterrean Sea and the absence of an escape from the blazing sun. READ MORE ROSE DE MAI Heading for the foothills of Grasse, and its Rose de Mai. Flowers in full bloom and early season climbs combine to produce a beautiful spring ride. READ MORE PARIS - NICE Paris- Nice didn't end as it should this year but the roads not ridden are still there. A local classic that says spring has arrived. READ MORE BACK TO BASICS If you’re looking for flat, look somewhere else. It may be close to home but it's time to climb. This is two times up and two times down. Really what riding is about. READ MORE

Guillaume Néry: A Traverse Across the Pyrenees It’s now a well-established ritual that, each summer, I set off on a trip with good friends who are up for accompanying me. Two years ago, my friend Fouad and I set off from Nice and trekked across the Southern French Alps on foot. Last year, we were spurred on by Audrey to do another trip to the Alps, this time by bike. This year, we tackled the Pyrenees and Audrey was, of course, part of the journey. I really could take on any journey with these two by my side. We head out with the sole objective of arriving. With no electronics or digital maps, we’re going old school. Armed only with a paper map and an itinerary that we’ll just feel out day to day, the idea is to do between 70 and 90 km per day with 1500/2000m elevation gain and complete the crossing from the Mediterranean to the Atlantic Ocean in the time (our goal is around two weeks). Our bikes aren’t the most modern, but they work and they climb if we pedal hard, and that’s all we’re asking of them. We’re more fortunate this year in terms of clothing because the Café sorted us out. We’ve quickly discovered how practical it is to have a jersey with pockets in the back. We really should have them on all our everyday clothes – I think it’s a trend that will hit the fashion market, and quickly. How come no one has thought of this before? Another concept I’m thinking about really looking into on the journey home: Birkenstocks with automatic pedal clips. Audrey is completing this expedition in sandals – she hasn’t brought anything else – but we agreed that at least with clips they’d be more efficient. We take on these adventures with minimal gear, our lives are contained in two saddlebags for several days. To get hold of a reserve of drinking water is a daily challenge. This minimalism makes us appreciate the comforts. If Fouad were sent to a desert island, I now know that he would bring his tin cup, his Italian coffee maker and his camping stove, seeing as coffee is key to his survival. Audrey, on the other hand, wouldn’t survive without a river to clean herself in at the end of each day. We’re also carrying things which we didn’t foresee taking when we set off. In the train from Nice to Perpignan, our paths crossed with a Ukrainian man who was kind enough to share with us a little piece of his culture, a speciality, absolutely amazing– thick pork rind covered with grilled pork skin. The dish leaves a very special sensation in your mouth, and it’s a brand new taste for me. We decided to enjoy it in moderation and make it last our entire trip. We won’t forget to take pictures with it in the most impressive places we travel through. Tonight, after a long journey in the saddle, we will lie down in the grass. We will get out what we’ve bought to eat and drink en route and simply enjoy the magic of the moment. We’ll tell each other that life here is really beautiful. We’ll lift our eyes up to the sky and hope it stays mild. If not, we’ll find a makeshift shelter, we’ll huddle together under the tarp we’ve got with us, and we’ll have an unforgettable experience. Then, we will set off again to attack more climbs, meet new people and make unforgettable memories. Life as I like it, existence as I see it. Further Riding Guillaume Néry: An Introduction Cycling has forged me into the athlete I am today, but it is so much more than just a way to train as it encompasses travel, exploration and discovery. VIEW MORE Caravan A collective of like minded sports people bonded by a shared love of cycling. Their reasons for riding are varied but they all have a common passion for exploring on two wheels. VIEW MORE Tracing the Torino-Nice Rally. A legendary gravel ride travelling from Italy to France. Sophie Gateau explores the route ahead of the start of the Rally this September. VIEW MORE Jurasick Park The PCR Gravier collective is back with its latest adventure – a grand traverse of the Jura mountains. But did they find any dinosaurs? VIEW MORE

RIDE OF THE MONTH: An Escape to the Monts d’Azur Without doubt, some of us have the time and necessary skill level to complete this route in its entirety, starting from the Port of Nice. Personally, I decided to take the train to reach Grasse, taking in the nice beachside journey, and getting away from the surge of cars still clogging up the coastal roads in early autumn. Grasse station, in the perfume capital, is my starting point at precisely 212m in altitude. The road which takes me to Saint Vallier de Thiey goes through the old town before reaching the heights of the town. 300 metres of elevation gain separates the low parts and high parts. That’s to say that, leaving Grasse, I can already feel it in my legs. Saint Vallier de Thiey can be reached in a little under one and a half hours. In the village square, the bust of Napoleon and the bench on which he sat is a reminder of his return journey from the Island of Elba on March 2nd, 1815. Fans of his will appreciate it. The road that climbs up to Ferrier is a cyclist’s dream. The big hairpin turns, which dominate the bottom of the Napoléon road where I just came from, offer stunning views out to sea and tempt me to take a quick break – a photo here is a must. After climbing the col, I enter into the Préalpes d’Azur park, and, as I continue to climb, I eat up the miles to get to the col of Castellaras quickly. 35km and a little over 1300m of elevation gain are now between me and my starting point. Passing over the Thorenc plateau is like changing worlds, an amazing surprise is waiting for me. The Monts d’Azur nature reserve stretches over 700 hectares, and its purpose is to reintroduce ancient and remarkable species of flora and fauna, dating from the Neolithic Era. All of these species (mammals, birds, insects, fish etc.) live alongside each other in total freedom. From the road which runs along the reserve you will certainly see bison, wild horses, stag, deer, elk and boar. The reserve is an exceptional model of a ‘rewilding’ experiment, an initiative which makes sense for lovers of unspoilt nature and protected areas. You would have to come back without your bike to really profit from a full day, or even night here, which would make for an unparalleled experience. Along the plateau which leads to Gréolières, a little ski resort in the back country of Nice, I find myself going at a quick pace. Boosted by a current of hot air and the abundance of vegetation surrounding me, the feeling of freedom is crazy! And when I arrive on a magical road on the side of the mountain, strewn with tunnels carved into the rock, I tell myself that what I’m experiencing is absolutely extraordinary. The scenery changes every 10km and so I am plunged into new atmospheres, each one as unique and as thrilling as the next. The end of my route follows the Loup river. From the gorge to larger riverbeds in the valley, the river eventually flows into the sea. I follow it until its end, and, like the river, I join up with the Mediterranean Sea at Cagnes sur Mer. The river’s course stops here, but mine finishes another dozen kilometres further along, past the Promenade des Anglais, and, finally, into the Port of Nice. Col De Vence The Col de Vence is an unforgiving climb, renowned for it's desert-like landscape, beautiful views of the Mediterrean Sea and the absence of an escape from the blazing sun. READ MORE Rose de Mai Heading for the foothills of Grasse, and its Rose de Mai. Flowers in full bloom and early season climbs combine to produce a beautiful spring ride. READ MORE Paris - Nice Paris- Nice didn't end as it should this year but the roads not ridden are still there. A local classic that says spring has arrived. READ MORE Corniche D'or Early in the year it can be cold, even on the Cote d’Azur. The days are shorter, the sun is weaker and even the water seems less blue. READ MORE Col St Roch Joining the dots that are the perched villages of the arrière-pays niçois for a roller-coaster ride that peaks over the Col St Roch. READ MORE

Guillaume Néry Some of my first dives were along the Promenade des Anglais as a child. I remember the excitement and fear of seeing the pebbles go deeper and deeper and then almost disappearing out of sight. I found it fascinating, like I was going into my own little space. I started freediving at 14 and initially I was just focused competitions and records. In 2015, I tried to break my 5th world record but there was a mistake in the measurement of the cable. I ended up at 139M instead of 129M which was way too deep for me and I damaged my lungs on the way up. I recovered but it was a breaking point and my relationship with the sport changed. I stopped competing and I realised that freediving was an amazing way to see the underwater world, marine animals and explore new places. It's not just a sport, it's a lifestyle and you develop a relationship with the elements. It teaches you humility because when you dive deep into the sea you realise how small we are. Cycling has forged me into the athlete I have become. As a child, I wasn’t particularly into sports, but I always went out on my bike regularly. It has helped me develop strong thighs and a passion for endurance which are essential for deep diving. When I started to perform well underwater, I used the bike as a training tool because it is great for practicing breath work, energy saving and building muscle. In college I was going out on my bike around 5 times a week and even as my career progressed, I still rode at least twice a week. Over the years my relationship with cycling has changed as well. Now, I use my bike all time to get around Nice, not just for training, and recently I have fallen in love with bikepacking. Last summer I crossed the Alps with my partner and this year I hope to take on the Pyrenees. instagram @guillaumenery facebook @Guillaume Néry twitter @guillaumenery “ Where I ride Around Nice, I enjoy exploring the Esteron valley, up to St-Auban. But if I only had two hours to spare, I would ride the Col d'Eze or Mont Chauve. ” “ What I ride When I was younger I always trained on the road. Nowadays I love riding in the backcountry on small gravel roads where there are no cars. ” “ Why I ride Cycling encompasses several things which are important to me in life: travel, exploration and discovery; it has a strong connection with free diving and has given me so much more than just a way to train. ” Related Stories One Breath Around The World Turn out the light, put on your headphones and freedive with me around the world. VIEW MORE A TRAVERSE ACROSS THE PYRENEES Each summer, I set off on an adventurous trip with good friends who are up for a challenge. VIEW MORE Bike-packing in the Balkans Freediving champion and Caravan athlete Guillaume Néry saddled up with his partner to ride from southern Greece towards their home in Nice. VIEW MORE Diving in at the Café It took five magical minutes to understand the dimension of free-diving champion and Caravan member, Guillaume Néry. To watch him sit and hold his breath for five minutes was a drop in the ocean on the way to understanding what’s required in this super-human sport. VIEW MORE BACK TO THE CARAVAN

SARAH BACHER My mom was a snowboard teacher and in winter I was always snowboarding with my friends. It just always felt like it was the thing I wanted to do. I started in snowboard cross but my body wasn't built for that discipline. Too light, too many injuries, it was a tough time physically and mentally. Then I found snowboard free ride. In free ride it is like someone ripped up the rules. You can almost do what you want, perform the tricks you like, takes the lines you like. As long as you stay in the corridor the rest is up to you. It's liberating and each run is different. It suits me. I’m currently one level down from the Freeride World Tour, which is the same as the World Cup in alpine skiing. Of course my goal is to make it to the Tour but each year only one girl gets to join. The competition for ranking points is tough but that's challange. To improve, to get better, to realise my ambitions. I've always ridden, for pleasure and for training but it used to be a lot of MTB. Now I've switched more to road and for the endurance I need in winter, I enjoy it much more than running. You can go further, you can see more, you can discover endless new places. Like with snowboard, for me riding is more about the feeling I get than the effort itself. The excitement of being outside, the risks in a descent, the decisions I have to take and the sense of ' légèreté', that lightness of spirit when everything is working together perfectly. On a bike or a board, the mountains are always different. There’s always another way you can do things. In snowboarding and in cycling you can always pick another line. instagram @sarah_bacher_ strava @Sarah Bacher “ Where I ride Normally I ride at home in lower Austria or in Innsbruck. It always depends on what training I want to do. So for basic endurance I cycle by the river Danube and for more exhausting training I go into the mountains and try to get as much altitude meters as I can get. ” “ What I ride Anything and almost everything. Roads close to home, sweeps along the river, MTB in Schaldming or intervals as part of my endurance training regime. ” “ Why I ride In snowboarding and in cycling you go with the flow, you go wherever you want. I ride because I can pause and I don’t think about other things. ” Related Stories Tackling Kühtai, a Tyrolian wonder. Snow has just started to whiten the top of Kühtai - a mountain which holds a special place in my heart and the perfect location for a pre-ski season climb. READ MORE THE WHITE VENTOUX Climbing the infamous 'Bald Mountian' is tough in the best conditions. Sprinkle some snow and add some cold and the challenge becomes even more extreme. READ MORE BIKE TO SKI At 1600m up, deep within the Mercantour National Park, surrounded by snow-covered peaks, the pick-up truck is being loaded two by two. READ MORE BACK TO THE CARAVAN

Étienne Hubert I should thank my parents. They took me hiking from a very young age and gave me a love of the outdoors. And they put me in a kayak for the first time. My first memory is of just going around in circles. The sport is very technical, much like swimming, and it takes years to ingrain good habits on the water. I've been a junior and senior world champion and finished seventh at the Olympic Games but I'm still learning all of the time. Like any elite sport, there are good things and bad things along the way. You have to be very selfish sometimes and it is easy to find yourself cut off from real life, in a 'bubble' which is only about one thing. But I love the challenge of the journey, looking ahead to the next goal and wondering how and if I'll get there. Any victories along the way are always nice as well, of course. Cycling is a key part of my training routine but it has always been more than that. Sometimes I have to ride alone but if possible I like to ride in a group, it's a great contrast to my day job which can be very individualistic. When I was younger, I would spend time exploring by kayak and by bike with a group of close friends. This gave us all a taste for adventure and it is still there now. I've ridden across amazing landscapes in Patagonia, gone from Eindhoven to `Sedan on an old 'dutch style' bike and crossed through Andorra in the deep winter with plastic bags over my shoes. The next trip, by bike or kayak, is always the best. twitter @hubertetienne1 instagram @tonton_hub “ Where I Ride Around Paris I've discovered some amazing gravel routes. Often I ride with relatives in the Ardennes and I keep a mountain bike at my sister's in the Ardèche. ” “ What I Ride Maybe I'm not really a pure cyclist if I don't love the road. But I love dirt roads. I love rough tracks and out of the way places. ” “ Why I Ride Kayaking is an aerobic sport, you need a big VO2 max and training on a bike helps. Really though it is for the discovery, the little adventure of going from point A to point B. ” Related Stories A Mont-Blanc Gravel Tour After the last few months of training and the Olympics in Japan, I find myself constantly craving nature. I’ve thought about doing this tour for a while so this seemed like the perfect time. READ MORE Lake Émosson The professional canoeist and Caravan athlete, Étienne Hubert, is preparing for the 2024 Olympics in Paris, where he lives. Part of his process is to take himself away from the metropolis, just him, a tent, his bike and of course, his kayak. READ MORE Paris by Night Adventure is around every corner on a bike, even in Paris in winter. Olympic canoeist and Caravan member, Étienne Hubert, takes two kayaking veterans on a twilight tour of Paris. READ MORE BACK TO THE CARAVAN

Alexia Barrier When I was less than 6 years old, my parents moved to Nice and bought a 6m sailboat. I can still feel the sensation of the helm of that boat in my hand and, even though I had blisters, I knew I didn't want to let go. Offshore racing requires a huge amount of versatility that is not found in many sports. You have to be competent in many areas like navigation and technology so you can be as efficient as possible. It is often incredibly rewarding but also requires immense mental strength at points. The scariest moment of my life was during the Vendée Globe race, on December 25 2020. I was in the South Pacific and my mast bending in half because of a broken cable. Theoretically, it had to break, which would have meant the end of the race for me, but it held. Even as one of the best female sailors in the world, you always have to question yourself. You are completely at the mercy of the elements and it never goes the way you have planned. I love the extreme side of sailing but also the freedom of just being out in nature, which is also what I enjoy about cycling. Cycling is a big part of my training. It's endurance, cardio and great mental preparation as well. The stamina needed in those last pedal strokes of a Col help me a lot when I am struggling on the boat. The Alpes- Maritimes is definitely my favourite place to ride - panoramic views and lots of Cols which is great as I appreciate the challenge of a big climb. I also love riding around Barcelonnette, Col de la Bonnette and, of course, the legendary Mont Ventoux but my dream would be to go to Japan for 6 months and ride there. Being outdoors for me is a way to relax; it is the only place where I can chill out and reflect on things. instagram @alexiasailingteam twitter @alexia_barrier strava @alexia barrier “ Where I ride The Alpes-Maritimes, where I live, there is everything here! Although I love the challenge of Mont Ventoux or Col de la Bonette. ” “ What I ride I prefer the road, mainly climbing Cols. I don’t trust myself to explore gravel routes, I have no sense of direction on land. ” “ Why I ride I like to do all my training outdoors so cycling is perfect. Its good endurance preparation and can also be mentally tough, which is important for me. ” Related Stories I am not number Alexia is the 10th woman in the world to have finished the Vendée Globe race without stopping and without assistance. Cycling is her other passion. READ MORE The Highest Crit In The World Redline racing at 2,802m on the lunar landscape and steep slopes of the Cime de la Bonette. READ MORE ABOVE THE CLOUDS – Fuji’s B-Side Climbing through Fuji's forests away from the crowds for a view above the clouds. READ MORE BACK TO THE CARAVAN

TAKE ME TO THE RIVER #7 : LA CLUE DE LA CERISE I still haven’t seen any of summer. I’ve spent the past few weeks on the European circuit, where I did manage to pick up a few nice wins. The feeling of returning home knowing you’ve accomplished your goal is a beautiful one. Coming back to my house, my family, my mountains, the sunshine, is a pleasure that I always savour. Today’s ride is a celebration of these things. The plan? Head inland, hop on my mountain bike and explore new routes, hurtle down new paths, soak up the sun, the sensations and new adventures. I know these parts well - my long hours of training often brought me here. The winding roads of Bouyon and Coursegoules aren’t a secret to me anymore. I come here to find peace – there are hardly any cars. Many riders neglect these roads in favour of the more well-known cols overlooking Nice, but they are wrong to do so. I promised myself to come back to La Clue de la Cerise on a machine equipped with suspension and big tyres. It’s 11 in the morning and swimmers have flocked here early to get the best spots. It’s an extraordinary place, nestled in a valley. The water is heated upstream as its snakes over boiling limestone rock, and it offers an ideal temperature to those who brave the 1-hour walk down. I sped down its bumpy valley side in just a few minutes. For sure, I’ll swim on the way back. But right now, I’ve got to tackle the sloping path which isn’t very wheel-friendly. It’s dotted with big rocks which forces me to use my arms and push myself back up constantly. My aim is to reach Les Ferres, 600 metres higher up, before midday. I am literally soaked in sweat when I come out on the little tarmac road that leads up to the village, with two kilometres to go. Climbing the steep alleyways which lead to the village square, I can’t escape the thought that, in centuries before, my peers knew how to tame the climate – it’s noticeably cooler along these stone walls. I plunge my head into the fountain: ecstasy. My body cools to a more acceptable temperature. Now, for the rocky summit which towers over the village. A local recommends that I take a break at the little church en route, to catch a glimpse of the view over the village: it’s superb. The rocky cliff I ride along is as hot as an oven, it hasn’t rained here for days and choking dust blows up at me. I change path, heading towards a shadier northern slope which, to my surprise, runs through a forest of chestnut trees. Again, the path gets tricky, it’s punctuated with steps, which proves demanding on the arms. As soon as I reach the bottom of the valley, the heat is stifling. My face is covered in dust and trickles with sweat. I’ve lost my way. I have to carry my bike to reach the riverbed, climbing down a slope and holding onto the tree roots that poke out. I need to find a way out to get back onto the road where I left my car. But that’s a problem for later. For now, this deserted corner of the river, and the cool of its sparkling blue water, is waiting for me. Mount Tanneron Hidden wild swimming spots offer perfect relief as the mercury rises. Tanneron is home to one of the River Siagne's best kept secrets. VIEW MORE Gordolasque High summer means high heat means the search for high roads and high mountain river swimming. Go to Gordolasque. VIEW MORE Col St Roch Halfway up Col St Roch lies a hidden treasure known only to a few. The perfect place to take a minute and unwind. VIEW MORE Rochetta Nervina Across the border, up the valley and through the olive groves. The latest ‘Take Me To The River’ takes us into Italy for a dip and a doppio. VIEW MORE Ruisseau de Redebraus We reveal yet another secret of the Col de Braus. Discover wild swimming paradise just a few hundred metres below some of the most perfect switchbacks in the Alpes-Maritimes. VIEW MORE Les Gorges Du Loup When the heat gets too much, escape to l’arrière-pays for some fresh water wild swimming. Introducing a new series of riding to rivers, starting with Les Gorges du Loup. VIEW MORE

Nissa La Bella Strolling the iconic Promenade des Anglais, wandering the bustling streets of the Old Town or simply sitting and gazing out to sea. Whichever way you look, Nissa La Bella is mesmerising in summer. The Eglantine jersey is badged in honour of our hometown and available for both men and women. 1. Promenade des Anglais 2. Vieux Nice, Place Sainte-Claire 3. Marché du Cours Saleya 4. Cours Saleya 5. Promenade des Anglais 6. Negresco 7. Promenade des Anglais 8. Promenade des Anglais 9. Rue Rossetti 10. Pointe de Rauba Capeu 12. Rue Sainte-Claire 11. Vieux Nice, Place Sainte Claire. 13. Sentier du Littoral