Badlands: The Ultra Distance Gravel Race
Badlands is an unsupported off-road race through Andalusia, made up of around 725km and 15,000m of altitude gain. The route begins in Granada, in the south of Spain, travels through two deserts, then snakes along the Mediterranean coast before climbing back up into the mountains of Sierra Nevada.
It’s the start of September and we’re setting off early this morning. There are around 200 of us, we are like horses scraping the ground impatiently, ready to let it rip. It’s an impressive line-up – we are joined by a former Olympic champion and a mountain biking champion, the crème de la crème of extreme long distance, as well as a host of cyclists hungry for a new adventure.
I signed up to this race with my friend Adrienne, and it’s rather different than what I’m used to. The photographs of the landscapes showcased by the race organisers made us want to see them up close. I have never ridden in the south of Spain, let alone in a desert. The day before the race, with temperatures already super high, I started to doubt my set up, so I added a third water bottle and an XXL-sized bottle of sun cream.
The route starts midway up the mountains on an uneven track which zigzags through arid terrain. The olive groves become rarer as we go through the day. By 10.30, it’s already more than 40 degrees.
We decide to stop, as soon as we find any kind of shade, to cool down. The scenery is sublime. We enter the National Park of Sierra Nevada, and we climb a scorched col. We meet a solitary golden cow who seems to wonder what we’re doing here. We ride along the white trails, taking advantage of the freshness of the lessening heat as the day wanes, and finally, we set up our bivouacs on a plateau under a sky filled with thousands of stars. The night is a lively one – a boar comes to rummage through the bushes by our feet, local farm dogs chase it away and, finally, a herd of goats with incandescent eyes pass by, rounding off the animal parade.
The sun rises late in southern Europe in this season. We set off again in the middle of the night to get some hours of riding in the cool under our belts, before we must face the crushing heat again. After many twists along steep paths, we reach the strange town of Purellena, located in the Hoya of Guadix. Lots of cave homes are built into the hills in red clay. Orange dust is everywhere, and it gets into every nook and cranny of our bikes so that they start to squeak. Freaky insects, snakes and other unknown creatures will hear us coming from a mile away now.
At the end of the morning, we arrive at the first checkpoint, Gorafe. A wall, in the form of a mountain, towers before us. The route does a loop in the desert and we pass exhausted cyclists who are coming back from it. One of them tells us that this section is extremely difficult and that there are no waterpoints. We learn that several participants are suffering from heatstroke and there are a number of cyclists abandoning the race. For me, the aim of this adventure is to go as far as I can. Adrienne and I decide to short-circuit this loop, so as not to use up all our ammunition – too bad about the race since, effectively, we are disqualified from here on.
The course crosses an austere flat plain. It’s still over 40 degrees, there are some olive trees and almond trees planted in the rocky fields. The wind picks up. Even if it’s not in our favour, the faintest circulation of air becomes a luxury that we appreciate enormously under this suffocating heat.
We reach the village of Gor, in the middle of which a large fountain presides. Lots of racers cool off, take a nap or refuel before the next difficulty - a long col half road, half gravel which climbs up to 2000m. We attack the climb while the sun is setting and make camp in the middle of the long ascent. A sheepdog barks at us in the middle of the night, no doubt displeased with us settling too close to its herd. I think I’m going to have to revise my notes on ‘how to find a good bivouacking spot’.
We pedal onwards in the pitch black of the early morning. The end of the climb is a wide and gentle track – the sun rises in time for our arrival at the top. We enter the Sierra de Baza nature reserve. After crossing a dry zone without any trees, we reach the highest point of our journey, the summit of the col of Calar Alto. Many observatories have been installed here, no doubt the view is clear and unobstructed.
Next up, a 25km descent – one which should be ranked in the top 20 most beautiful descents – along perfect tarmac, with breathtaking views and no sign of a single car. It takes us down to the village of Gergal, the doorway into the Tabernas desert. We sleep just at its edge, as bivouacking is banned there.
Crossing a desert at sunrise is a magical experience – the amazing views come one after the other. We ride through sand in the middle of canyons and we walk, pushing our bikes on trails which line the cliff edges. We explore abandoned villages, and we go through places where several Western films were shot.
The next morning, we arrive at the foot of the ‘plastic sea’, a huge terrain covered with white plastic greenhouses which are used to make the tomatoes grow intensively. This part of the race leaves a bitter taste in our mouths.
The Mediterranean is finally in view. It is a deep blue and the water is clear. We couldn’t resist a quick dip before continuing our route along the coast. A path hanging over the cliffs takes us to Cabo de Gata, a nature reserve for birds and a site with volcanic origins. We see a lot of flamingos here.
The sun is setting, we still have 30km to go until Almeria, the big city in which we had planned to spend the night. But we are out of luck – this section is covered in sand all along the beach. It will take us about three hours to get through it. We meet two Swedish participants and we each weigh up our chances of completing the race before tomorrow’s 8 PM deadline. There are still 200 km left to go, with 4000m of elevation gain. All four of us agree that the challenge is impossible. It’s finally time, then, for a long overdue and well-deserved beer.
A Tour of the Volcanoes of Auvergne.
Sophie Gateau explores the Auvergne region, where there are probably more cows than humans per m2, armed with our camera, a tent and a knife.
Tracing the Torino-Nice Rally.
A legendary gravel ride travelling from Italy to France. Sophie Gateau and Mathias Riquier explore the route ahead of the start of the Rally this September.
7 Majors
Sophie Gateau takes on the challenge of the 7 Majors of bikepacking. The route is a 345 km loop with 10,000 metres of elevation change through the Southern Alps in both France and Italy.
Riding With Purpose #2.
Cycling the empty streets of Paris to deliver food to those in need, Sophie Gateau documents the capital city during the lockdown.
Back to Brittany
Bikepacking in between the brasseries. Are kilometers per beer a new cycling metric?