ROTM MAY 2022

Ride of the Month : Provence Markets

There are two things which fuel the cyclist. One is food and water, the other is the topography and scenery. Both are necessary rewards for the miles spent pushing and panting. In Provence, the home of Café du Cycliste, we are spoilt with an abundance of beautiful ingredients, a world-renowned cuisine, and thousands of miles of mountains, trails and incredible rolling roads. Campagne et gastronomie de la Côte d’Azur.

May is the season of the markets in Provence, where a cornucopia of open air stalls appear each week in most towns and villages. We often like to go grunting and gathering, like the little Lycra-clad piggies we are, on our bikes to such markets – a great excuse to sample some saucisson, uncover archictectural gems and enjoy a coffee or three.

We depart our Provencal promenade, of course, from the Café du Cycliste shop in the port of Nice. A cappuccino, a black Americano and an espresso for our photographer. We smile at the sun gods, blessing us yet again with golden rays and the effervescence of springtime.

First we ride an easy tempo to the Basse Corniche, beginning to perspire as we reach Villefranche sur Mer with its stunning viewpoint over the sea, dinghies and yachts casting their shadows on the water. Somewhere in this vicinity was discovered the remnants of Stone Age tools. It’s fascinating to imagine prehistoric humans stalking beaches around here and lighting fires within their primitive huts. Then imagine them trying to logon to the WiFi or even zip-up their Café du Cycliste jerseys. Mind-boggling.

Our carbon fibre and alloy machinery brings us to Beaulieu-sur-mer and its Art Deco Grand Casino. Feeling lucky? We keep moving. We then take the obligatory race positions on the smooth blacktop into Monaco, bellies towards our top tubes alongside the F1 circuit to Menton. Riding by the lapping waves of the turquoise sea, with the smell of sun cream in the air, brings a sense of holiday time. Some people below are even having a little dip in the chilly May water too, brave.

This summer vibe – 35km into the ride – makes us want to stop for another coffee, before starting the toughest leg of the trip so we make our stop at a cute café, with a terrasse right by the sea. After having ordered our next round of cappuccino and Americano (water for the photographer this time), we sit at a table in the shade of a parasol. Maybe gelato would be better today. No matter, the stimulating aromas are rewarding. Sipping our coffee, admiring the views, this really is a taste of la dolce vita. Safety first of course.

Back on the bike, taking it easy, spinning the legs until we cross the limits of Menton. Then a sudden right angle turn into a narrow road at the bottom of the Mortola climb which can take us over into Italy. But not today. As we begin to climb this narrow road we see more of Menton below, offering a view of the old town with its colourful facades of reds and yellows, the church and the port. Flashing blue water comforts our eyes once more. Following this tiny road, our route takes us up to Castellar offering beautiful views of the mountains between greenery and rocks.

After Castellar, we join the road towards Castillon and Sospel but instead of going up, we take a left and turn back down toward Menton. Soon after, we reach the bottom of the famous Col de la Madone that we’ll only use for 3km before taking another left and a smooth climb that leads to Gorbio, a pretty typical perched village with quiet cobbled streets and medieval passages.

Then along a pine-tree-lined road we roll back down seawards to another perched idyll, the old town of Roquebrune Cap Martin. Here we finally reach our market, in the central square with a big olive tree. We hear it before we see it.

Today, market day, the tree is surrounded by stalls – from market gardener, fishmonger, to cheese monger and charcuterie. We take a quick browse, sample some Tomme à l'Ancienne, inhale the smells and adore the scenery. A quick tour of the old town (dismounting our bikes) through tiny narrow streets with cool, fresh air bouncing off the stonework.

A sleeping cat, the smell of lunch being prepared. We finish off the day by riding up to La Turbie via La Moyenne. It is a gentle climb above Monaco and leads us to out third and final coffee stop. Espresso all round, single shot. From La Turbie, a true cycling crossroad of the French Riviera, it is all the way down to Nice with a plunging view over the bay and Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, always good for tired legs.

March

In the world of cycle racing, Milan–San Remo is one of the most prestigious events of the season. To win this trophy is to have your name chiseled into history. But only if you’re a man.

January

Exiting Nice from the north side, this ride provides a healthy mélange of architectural and natural landmarks, with a side of local legend.

December

In Provence, Christmas lasts 40 days. In the small village of Luceram, nativity scenes have become a sacred tradition for its inhabitants.

November

A ride that goes further than the normal nourishing experience, climbing the iconic Col d’Eze en route to Monaco in search of a model turned urban gardener.