Dead end climbs are often overlooked and undervalued. Until you try them. Sure, cols are beautiful and going over the top gives a real sensation of conquering a mountain. Not to mention the practicality of linking one valley to the other. But. Maybe that is the beauty of the dead-end climb – it’s not for practicality but rather for the sheer hell of it. And experience shows, at least here in the Alpes-Maritimes, that actually they are some of the most interesting ascensions to be found.

August’s ride of the month is one such folly. So we go back towards the Turini, the location of June’s Tour de France themed ride of the month and base ourselves further up the Vesubie valley in Saint-Martin-Vésubie.

Saint-Martin-Vésubie is also known as the Suisse Niçois. It has long been a base camp town for alpinists, who are to thank for the first climb because it goes to La Madone de Fenestre. You may confuse that name for ‘fenêtre’ - the French word for window - but that would not be inappropriate. The top of this road offers a window view into the heights of the Mercantour National Park.

First you have to get up there, and the road to La Madone de Fenestre is described by local riders as one of the sternest tests. As is often the case, the statistics don’t tell the full story. After leaving the town and being lulled into a false-flat sense of security, the road suddenly goes straight. And up. And up. A constant 10% average is noticeable. The only sensory distraction is the sound of the Vésubie river crashing beside you. It’s maybe because the road follows the river route so strictly that it’s difficult – the path of least resistance on the way down must mean the opposite for the way up? Breathing is… heavy.

Criss-crossing the river, past landslides and through the alpine firs, you eventually pass a sign near the top to indicate you are entering the Mercantour National Park. Magic is just around the corner. After a couple of hairpins, the Refuge de les Madone de Fenestre comes into view. Not only is there a refuge, but also a chapel and an old hotel, now used as a communal base by randonneurs and alpinists who explore peaks that form an amphitheater above. The age of the group of buildings is a hint of the pioneering of the past when Count Victor de Cessole, the ‘inventor of the Alpes-Maritimes’ and his friends were the first to climb to the top of each of the Mercantour’s major peaks.

Reach the top, stop and look up. Green disappears and is replaced by grey. If it’s a sunny but cloudy day the light and shadows dapple the granite peaks for a mountain view as good as you’ll get anywhere in the alps. There is a café at the far end of the refuge. Stop for an Orangina because you might need it for the second climb of the day.

Back down the hill to Saint-Martin-Vésubie, then savour the 8km down the valley until you see the sign for Belvedère to the left. You might also notice signs for the Valley des Merveilles – the valley of marvels which holds Europe’s largest quantity of Bronze Age rock carvings. Knowing this adds a certain ambiance to the climb from Belvedère up the Gordolasque valley. It’s a valley known for its wild beauty. Before beauty comes effort.

Leaving Belevedère it’s obvious you are on another side valley, dead-end climb as the road is narrow and the traffic is practically non-existent. The trees extend to the adjoining peaks but this road goes above the tree line. There are long fairly straight sections in the 8km, interspersed with a couple of switchbacks, that lead to the Cascade du Ray. Get some freshness from the Gorodolasque river that gives the valley its name, as the water tumbles over the big rocks, and use that to complete the final part of the climb.

Pass the Hotel du Grand Capelet, named after one of the peaks above, and which with a bit of attention would not look out of place in a Wes Anderson movie. Picture-perfect chalets dot the last section of winding road that passes the Lac Long reservoir – a French tradition of exploitation of hydro-electricty that you may have noticed on the first climb.

The end of the road is at the ‘Parking du Contet’, which is the depart for randonneurs in this valley. There is a bridge just beyond the car park where fly fishing and river swimming are possible – just cast your lines first before you scare the fish away by diving in.

The valley almost resembles the American Rockies. Although this is a wild, lesser known climb it has some notoriety. Between Belvedère to here that they filmed the famous 1960s French TV show, Belle & Sebastien about the boy and his beloved Pyreneean mountain dog. It gained cult status, not least because of being shot in its authentic location and you can visit the ‘Cabane de Belle & Sebastien’ which is a mere 10 minute walk from the bridge.

So when the climbing is done, stand once again at this dead-end road that provides a window on the highest peaks of the Alpes-Maritimes and simply appreciate the view and the fact that you are there by virtue of pedal power.

Komoot Route

Coffee stop : At the Refuge de la Madone de Fenestre

Lunch stop : Saint-Martin-Vesubie has two boulangeries and the Brasserie Les Alpes serves salad, pizza, pasta and a plat du jour.

Read about other Rides of the Month and find the perfect route by season. Or discover more details about cycling on the Cote d'Azur with our Riding Guide to Nice.