La Vélodyssée

La Vélodyssée : An Atlantic Adventure.

If there is an ideal route for embarking on your first bike-packing adventure, the Vélodyssée is in an excellent option. The 1200 km route which runs adjacent to the Atlantic Ocean connects Brittany to the Basque Country and gives riders of all abilities a true taste of the diversity of France and all its topographical richness. The Vélodyssée is also the French slice of the Euro Vélo, an 11,000 km route tracing the Atlantic coastline across Europe – from Scandinavia to western Portugal.

The slow travel formula, without any time constraints, is what most people opt for. And there is no need to have the latest bike or high-tech equipment to live the adventure. Many families and groups of friends approach it quite simply by exploring the kilometres at their own pace. Self-propelled tourism.

Our formula this August is a father-son expedition. 10 days to connect North to South in complete autonomy. There's a bit of a challenge in having 13-year-old Tim pedal an average of 130 kilometres a day. The kid’s legs are not so used to cycling, he’s rather more accustomed to swimming pools. So, the risk of seeing the experience turn short when fatigue is felt could be a possibility. But youthful energy prevails, and Tim completes the journey without compromise.

The summer heat wave of 2022 that has swamped everywhere in Europe seems to have bypassed Brittany at the time of departure from Roscoff. A first night of wild camping on a fine sandy beach, lulled by the rhythm of the waves will give a perfect start to the journey. Freeze-dried pasta, a piece of sandwich left over from the train trip for our dinner, the tone is set for our odyssey on two wheels.

The crossing of almost 400 kilometres across the tip of Brittany mainly takes an old railway line converted into a gravel path, then along the banks of the Nantes-Brest canal. The city of Nantes punctuates this first part of the trip, and the Loire and its estuary are a link that marks the switch to the ocean.

By reaching the ocean, the atmosphere changes, much like the temperature which does not stop climbing as we head south. The tourist season is in full swing here too, and a large population from northern Europe has migrated for a few weeks to the coast. Renowned seaside resorts are crowded and sometimes long to cross on the bike.

But soon we make an incursion inland, the route following ancient tracks through deserted landscapes of lagoons and immense pine forests far from the hustle and bustle of the beaches. Arriving in the department of Landes, a few kilometres below Bordeaux, the riding is marvellous. A small ribbon of asphalt splits dense forests of conifers which offer a highly appreciated freshness, the scent of pine awakening our tired eyes. This adventure is a real journey into the French terroir. The first three days familiarised us with buckwheat pancakes and Breton cider.

Approaching Oléron and further from the Arcachon basin, we enter the undeniable stronghold of oysters and other marvellous sea creatures. The colourful houses of the fishermen are places that invite you to taste. If you want to combine these seafood specialties with the white wine that accompanies them so well, book this break for the end of the day, when the sun goes down and the sweetness sets in. This wraps up a day on the bike wonderfully and provides a smooth transition to the following day’s adventure.

The Vélodyssée is also an immersion into the heritage of France: From Brittany to the Landes and then to the Basque Country, traditional local houses mingle with beautiful bourgeois residences built in the most prestigious places. The near-300 locks that line the Nantes to Brest canal invite you to take repeated breaks to survey the expanse, and a little lower down, the Castles of the Dukes of Brittany fascinate with their imposing structures.

Further on, in Rochefort, crossing with the bikes on the last transporter bridge still in service in France is an unparalleled experience. The curiosities continuing up to the magnificent city of Biarritz are not lacking on the route, and the bicycle is a means of approaching everything intimately, crisscrossing the places where vehicles are not allowed to go.

The gravel bike is the most suitable machine for this experience we concluded. In any case, a bike with a tyre section of at least 40mm is recommended, especially for the upper sections of the route. The part extending from the Arcachon basin to Hendaye can be done on a classic road bike (25mm tires minimum). The profile is mostly flat, in any case with no elevation that could discourage a novice.

Logistically, it is easy to refuel throughout the course, no need to carry lots of food, this is France after all. The small restaurants, snack bars and pizzerias found in the campsites are good solutions for eating hot cuisine and not too expensively. Out of season, a considerable number of accommodation options, some very characterful, are offered on the course, a lighter way of riding that many will appreciate.

Whichever formula you choose, the Vélodyssée is a journey that leaves an indelible memory, reaffirming the power of the bike as an essential companion for travel and adventure. So, when are you leaving?

Info and routes (GPX files) here.

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