Fuel for a Nation Every morning, without fail, a cake stand sits on the Café du Cycliste bar laden with freshly baked croissants and pains aux chocolats to fuel the first cyclists through the door. These morceaux of delight come from Boulangerie Lagache, just five minutes north of the Port on Rue Arson. The Maître Artisan (master craftsman), Monsieur Lagache has a good track record; in 2011 he won the award for the best baguette in the Département of Alpes-Maritimes. We decided to rise early with the bakers and find out what it takes to make breakfast for a large and expectant neighbourhood. To view the preparation work, the folding and kneading, the mixing and the glazing before the ovens were loaded. Then we would profit from the empty roads by climbing Mont Chauve, the mountain that towers above the Baie des Anges, for a view of a fully lit yet almost completely asleep Nice. Bread and cycling; it could be argued that these are two staples of French life. Of course, those at the serious end of the cycling scale professionals and amateurs alike used to hollow out the baguette and simply eat the outer crust on the misunderstanding that it helped them stay lean. Nowadays, professionals avoid it altogether, or so they would say – we have witnessed one local professional end a five hour ride with a pass-by the boulangerie for a ‘recovery baguette’. Everybody loves French bread. Steeped in history, boulangerie is a métier of passion. In France, where some regard the price of bread as the short term trigger to the revolution and therefore the birth of the Republic in 1789, du pain is a source of conflict. The boulangerie profession must feed the people, but also has to be regulated to maintain standards and to prevent the artisans of yeast and flour working around the clock, seven days a week. So Boulangerie Lagache is shut every Tuesday because the government demands it. Legislation was passed in 1920 to prevent the boulangers starting before 4am. “It is forbidden to employ workers making bread and pastry between ten in the evening and four in the morning.” Four o’clock in the morning is early enough for even the hardiest of cyclists. There is no half-wheeling at this hour, especially with Mont Chauve on the menu. A touch over five kilometres at a steady 8% gradient is a testing enough breakfast. The things we’ll do for a pain au chocolat. Because, of course, not all bread is savoury. The croissant is to the sweet-toothed weekend warrior what the baguette is to the hungry post-workout professional. A guilty pleasure of layered dough and butter that puffs with excitement when ready. Just don’t tell anyone an Austrian invented it. It’s crescent shape isn’t dissimilar to that of the curves of the Mont Chauve mountain which are traversed by the road the first set of hairpins before the barrier and the second, tighter set that take you to the Fort on the peak. Here we take in the view of Nissa La Bella and her contours that are exposed by street lights. With low cloud and no moonlight the sky and the sea merge into one dark mass. Beyond the range of the bike lights who knows what is out there - that's part of the thrill of riding in the dark, if done with a friend. The cold air begins to speak up, and it’s time to descend back towards the warmth of the ovens and the gifts that they give. Since modern legislation was introduced, you must have a level V diploma (CAP: Certificat d'Aptitude de boulanger) or higher to be certified as a boulanger. As with most walks of life, qualifications on a piece of paper are only the start. Monsieur LaGache has been a Maître Artisan for over three decades and that experience is evidenced by the queues out the front door when we arrive back in front of the boulangerie. These are the best baked goods in this particular corner of Nice. A bag of croissants and pain au chocolat are collected and we race to La Prom in the hope that the clouds have cleared and the sun will set the bay alight. It doesn’t happen but that’s alright, we have the best of French baked goodness to tide us over. Footnotes: Thanks to all the staff at Boulangerie Lagache for all their co-operation and for their trés trés bonnes viennoiseries .

What lies above, beyond the beach. "There are so many amazing little climbs all over the place, and so many interesting roads that just make you want to explore. It seems to be perfect territory for Forrest Gump riding — just setting out and seeing where you end up." - the Climbing Cyclist on riding the Côte d'Azur. Like Forrest Gump just kept on running, us velocipides just want to keep on rolling : round the next corner, over the unbeaten path, through the col. Quick city exits and quiet roads that keep on winding and climbing and crossing borders into principalities, Italy, or simply the next valley. Keep on keeping on. The Riviera might evoke a packed hullabaloo of tourists fighting for space on busy coastal roads as they make their way to the sea. The fact is, if you choose your route correctly, you can be up and out of Nice in less than ten minutes, and at 1,000m above the Mediterranean in less then sixty minutes. Up there, in the depths of l’arrière-pays, time can stand still like a sun-worshipper with a 30€ a day front row beach transat. Between the Mediterranean and the highest peaks lies a plethora of valleys overlooked by perched villages built in pastel colours, each one offering the obligatory boulangerie, brasserie and free fountain water to top up your bidons. Layers of folded earth crust, laced with french road engineering that surely justifies some of the taxes paid by the French citizens. Choose to stay in the compact folds of the collines, or venture further north where the valleys are deeper because the peaks are higher. The Roya valley, the Bevera valley, the Veusbie valley and the Tinée valley. Take the last one to end up at the foot of Europe’s proclaimed highest road*. The beach bums don't have to be forgotten; you can nearly see them on a clear day from 2,000m above sea level if you venture round the Boucle de l'Authion - the 14km loop above the 24km climb to Col de Turini. That's nearly 50km of climbing if you start from Nice. Up, ever up. And after the snow line is reached or when the sun is on its descent over the western peaks of L'Esterel national park, all that is left is to turn around and freewheel back to Nissa la Bella. The roads are waiting. The roads are calling. The roads are empty. For more information on the routes and climbs of the Côte d'Azur, check out WHERE WE RIDE

L'ANNÉE 2018 "Ride as much or as little, as long or as short as you feel. But ride" - Eddy Merckx Every time a cyclist rides, they create a story. Long or short, at home or abroad, there is always a tale to be told. Before we hit reset the digital kilometre counter, we take a look at some of the stories that the road presented to us in 2018. From south of Marrakesh to as far north as the Arctic Circle, exploring new roads, gravel roads, fly fishing and fig hunting. Here are our notes from the field. #1 - BACKDROP OF THE YEAR The return of Morocco. Snow covered Atlas Mountains and a visit from the locals. It is an on-going love affair between Café du Cycliste and Morocco. You only have to go 50km south west of the nation's capital to be at the feet of the Atlas, where multi-coloured rollers meet snow-covered backdrops and endless empty roads disappear over vanishing point crests that lead to the peaks above 2,000m. #2 - RIDE OF THE YEAR Rolling on the edge of the 'Île Magique', off-season but still in the sun The first of Le Week-End Prolongé series was a roll-on, roll-off ferry ride to explore the northern roads of Corsica. It was a father-son affair which, of course meant the gloves were off any time weakness was shown. But riding the dramatic west coast of Cap Corse after the Best Charcuterie In The World, towards the sunset on Nonza beach was a cycling memory that will live forever. #3 - AUDAX OF THE YEARDue North, from Nice to London to join the Café du Cycliste dots with an on-saddle sommelier to guide by the glass through the regions. Audax can be whatever long distance audaciousness you want it to be. This year we challenged three riders to put the Audax range to the test in a shop to shop adventure from Nice to London. The seven day, 1,200km voyage gave plenty of time for musings on what is long, why is long, and how is long. Plus the opportunity to raise a glass in every region of la France. #4 - PRODUCT OF THE YEAROcéane, a culmination in Riviera style that has evolved since the beginning of la Belle Époque. Inspiration and escapism from the Côte d'Azur. Inspired by the French Riviera, Grace Kelly and the glamour and sparkle of life beside the Mediterranean. The Océane jersey was a limited edition pièce de résistance of the summer. Shelves were emptied as quick as monsieur Richie Porte climbs Col de la Madone. Shot in the sun on Cap Ferrat, apparently the most expensive real estate in the world. #5 EVENT OF THE YEAR The Fête des Zinzins : a celebration of craziness on all three sides of Col de Turini Group riding the Brevet des Zinzins. First approach from L'Escaréne, second from Sospel and third and last from La Bollène-Vesubie. From half-wheeling to survival of the fittest to the rise to top of the cream of the climbers. Nine strong riders, 170km on the horizontal axis and 4km on the vertical axis. Only five men finished but everyone plus more will return next year. #6 - MOUNTAIN OF THE YEAR This year our badges for cols went global. The snake that is Sa Calobra proved the most popular. Sumitting mountain roads delivers many rewards, but another one doesn't do any harm. Badges are now available for a selection of les Montagnes du Monde, from Taiwan to NYC's Bear Mountain and including the Tour classic Tourmalet. With more to come in 2019 make sure you claim a deserved badge of honour. #7 - OFF ROAD ADVENTURE OF THE YEAR Magical misty river scenes were the reward for a pre-dawn gravel start to go fly-fishing with Solenne Fly fishing was not only the new excuse to ride but also the reason to stop and enjoy nature's finest offerings. On the last day of the fishing season, le serpentine river, up a dead-end road out of the Allos valley, was a special start to a great day out. #8 FUEL OF THE YEAR Fuel is one of the key parts of a good ride. Even better if it's picked from the Mother Tree of Col d'Eze We all know how important fuel is during any ride. We've had an over-dose of tajine in the Atlas, savoured the Best Socca In The World, but what is better than picking fresh figs off the Mother Tree on a late summer's evening ride up the Grande Corniche? If we had to pick only one source of fuel, the fruit of the Garden of Eze would be our choice of the year. #9 - LIGHT DELIGHT OF THE YEARA burning sky in the crisp cold of the Arctic Circle. We chase sunrises and sunsets all over the world, but this year we found the best one in Alta, Norway. #10 - LLAMA OF THE YEARThe boss of the Col de Tourmalet Somewhere on Col de Tourmalet this Llama is having a great and relaxed time but wondering why the guy on the bike never moves.

Nissa La Bella Nissa La Bella is the official anthem of our home town. Sung every week at OGC Nice football matches and in schools around the town, it's an ode to where we ride. Viva, viva Nissa la Bella ! O la miéu bella Nissa, Regina de li flou "Long live Nice, long live beautiful Nice Oh my beautiful Nice, Queen of all the flowers" Seen through the eyes of photographer Benedict Campbell, to have another view and another angle is to find another way to love our home town.

There is no plan. I’m from the Southwest of Ireland. People always talk about the weather here, it’s the first topic of any conversation and it fits snugly into the small-talker’s comfort zone. We live in a maritime climate, at the mercy of the pagan weather gods. In any one day we can experience sun, torrential downpours and howling winds, so it’s no wonder it dominates our behaviour, our moods, our outlook on life and our plans. I’ve always been drawn to extremes, to landscapes and cultures that are, by nature, tough. In my own way, I guess I’ve been trying to understand how people forge a life in these wild, weather-beaten locations. This curiosity has brought my wanderings by bike to some of the most far-flung islands in the Northern Hemisphere: Iceland, the Faroes, the Hebrides. My recent trip to the Isle of Jura in the Inner Hebrides of Scotland, is one that will definitely stay with me forever. Organized by Pannier.cc, we were in the company of Chris McNally, cycling illustrator extraordinaire, his sister Wren and photographer Chris McClean. It was going to be a good trip, fun people, up for adventure, it doesn’t get better. The island has only one road that stretches 30 miles from south to north from the ferry. There are no prescribed adventures on this island, you need to make up your own. And make up our own, we did. After riding 10 miles from the ferry to our camp spot in a beautiful location overlooking the sea, we tucked into a warm dinner, enjoyed some of the local whisky then retreated to our tents in howling winds and lashing rain. Not the warmest reception...but we woke to blue skies and a whole day of exploring ahead of us. The thing about ‘planning’ bike adventures is...plans never really work out how you imagined them to - and that’s just it - the ‘plan’, no matter how well thought out, is a figment of the imagination. The plan usually goes out the window when you roll away from your empty camps pot and all the unpredictable stuff starts to happen. Like bad weather, getting lost, getting lazy...and so on. We had ‘planned’ to ride as far as a shack on the tip of the island where George Orwell took refuge to write but, we lost so much time buying whisky in the Jura distillery, buying heads of cabbage and food for our camp dinner in the only shop on the island, then chatting with a farmer and his wife who are diversifying with a gin business, that we simply ran out of time. So, stuck at a crossroads, we were forced to choose between George Orwell and a deer stalkers Bothy (recommended by the gin-making farmer who has probably never ridden a bike). We decided to forgo Orwell and head for the bothy which was...according to Komoot, about 10km away. Apparently ‘trail’ in Scotland covers an extremely varied plethora of interpretations. I’ve experienced what are categorised as ‘gravel’ trails by locals to be singletrack worthy of a full-suspension mountain bike. And on the Isle of Jura, it's no different. This ‘trail’ was a line through the bog, slightly darker than the rest of the bog, created by men in rubber boots holding guns, looking for deer. What ensued was over an hour of pushing our laden bikes (the cabbage and gnocchi) over and around mounds of bog and sea grass while being feasted on by midges to the point that we couldn’t stop moving. Even.for.one.second. We did have to stop because we needed to discuss the fact that we were only moving at 4kph and at this rate it would take us 2 more hours to get to the bothy even going downhill - never-mind getting back up over the hill and riding the 30 miles the next morning to catch the ferry. Again...we aborted the plan, returned to the road and had some whisky. The whisky must have made us come to our senses, for it wasn’t until we each had our fair share of the aptly named Jura brew called ‘Journey’ that we settled on the best plan of the day: find a camp spot in a little cove, build a fire and make some cabbage salad and gnocchi. That sounded like a good plan...and it sure was! Footnotes: Photography : Chris McClean / Text : Fiola Foley @ Komoot

Les Courses Disparues #6 : Tour de Corse “THIS GUY HERE IS THE ONLY BIKE RIDER WHO EVER MADE ME SHIT MY PANTS" It took over 100 hundred years for the Tour de France to finally pass through Corsica. On paper, it’s a cyclist’s paradise; endless coastal roads; snow-capped spring peaks; and sunshine to accompany you for much of the year. On newspaper, it was deemed too edgy; too much of a risk for the organisers of the world’s biggest bike race. However, no parchment can quite convey how mesmeric these roads really are. Ask any rider who was at the start line five years ago; there’s nowhere quite like it. The hundred years which preceded this historic départ were, of course, not “sans vélos”. Whilst the Tour de Corse will perhaps resonate more with fans of four wheels than those of two, the course cycliste was a popular amateur event before the Second World War, first running in 1920. Then some 32 years after the amateur race had ended the pros finally descended upon l’Île de Beauté. The plan to entice the professionals away from their mainland comforts was concocted by Henri Angelotti and Francis Ducreux. Somewhat of a maverick, Ducreux would devote much of his post-racing career to organising races in Africa, while Angelotti was a native Corsican with a passion for the sport. They began by organising a one day crit around Bastia, paying a small fortune to attract the likes of Merckx and an aging Anquetil. Following another successful edition in 1969, they finally launched the Tour de Corse two years later; with none other than Monsieur Jacques as race director. It was set up as an early season stage race, a bit like the Critérium du Dauphiné, which allowed it to cover almost the entire island, visiting Ajaccio, Porto Vecchio and ending in the north at Bastia. It took them nearly a decade to attract the big teams like Peugeot but once they did, some of cycling's patrons and the next generation of Neo-pros came and wrote their stories on the sinuous roads. Amongst the Peugeot riders was the young Irish neo-pro, Stephen Roche. He was so fresh to the scene that before the first stage he was being mistaken by stewards as Robert Millar’s driver. But having just finished third at G.P. de Cannes and second at G.P de Monaco, Roche was in the process of making sure everyone would know his face soon enough. In Monaco he’d been ordered to let his team leader Jean René Bernadeau to take the win, so the Irishman was confident he could challenge in Corsica, even in a loaded field. The entry list included Bernard Hinault, the young Greg Lemond, and a similarly debutant Laurent Fignon. Although perhaps his biggest challenge would come from within his own team; Jacques Bossis, Michel Laurent and, the Aussie, Phil Anderson were all viable candidates for the win. Following two tight stages on the opening day, the key stage for Roche would come on day two, from Ajaccio to Porto Vecchio. Bossis attacked early, quickly gaining a minute. Seeing an opportunity, Roche decided to jump across to his teammate. With 120 kilometres still to go they worked together until it was clear they would maintain the gap to the finish. Knowing that he would take the leader’s jersey Bossis allowed Roche to take the win over the line, small change for what had happened in Monaco a few days earlier. A routine stage into Bastia was followed by the decisive ten-kilometre time trial up Col de Teghime, that sits on the spine of the ridge separating Bastia and Saint-Florent. With Hinault in third, but still within striking distance, Bossis quite naturally feared the Badger more. Roche, however, had more to prove and climbed more than 40 seconds faster than Bossis to take his first pro win. If the racing world missed his island victory, the Irishman sealed the deal with a win at the Paris-Nice two weeks later thus ensuring that when he returned to Corsica the following year, he was one of the stars of the peloton. This new status allowed him to gently remind the organisers that he had still not been paid for an autograph session from the previous year and advise that if the money was not received, he would withdraw from the race. Ducreux had to admit, “This guy here is the only bike rider who ever made me shit my pants”. Money was promptly paid. The winner of the time trial up Col de Téghime was Michel Laurent, thereby jumping ahead of Hinault on the podium. Laurent was the most successful rider in the history of the Tour de Corse, finishing on the podium a record five times, whilst winning it twice. In fact, he’d finished ahead of Hinault before at the Route de France and clearly the potential was there to make the top level. But maybe he was only a one-week racer, or maybe he didn’t have the killer instinct of Hinault and Roche. Either way, despite victories at Paris-Nice and the Dauphiné, Laurnet never made it to grand tour success. Back in Corsica that killer instinct in Hinault was ignited and once more, during the final running of the event in 1982, the time trial up Col de Teghime was critical. The story goes that Henri Angelotti in his role as commisaire, knowing Hinault was behind on Roche’s time, drove up alongside him shouting “Vas-y!” as if he was approaching the end of the course. Hinault got a whiff of victory, stood up on the pedals and began his final effort with over a kilometre to run. Other riders might have popped once they realised the greater distance to the line, but the fire had been ignited in Hinault. He held on to win the stage by seven seconds and the event by five. Financial strife eventually brought an end to the the Tour de Corse. Since then the centenary edition of the Tour de France and the Critérium International have brought global attention to the island. But with the latter no longer in existence, Corsica can once more rest easy. We have to thank it for the stories made whilst careers were being forged on the sinuous roads that traverse this mountain in the sea. But there is a tranquillity often hard to find in more popular cycling spots, which leads us to think perhaps it’s for the best that the circus no longer descends upon this beautiful island. Leaving it untouched for others to discover. Read more about the races that gone but not forgotten in our Courses Disparues series.

Brevets des Zinzins de Turini The Zinzins de Turini is an open challenge for those who love to climb. All participants must abide by the prescribed set of rules. RÈGLEMENT The aim is to scale the Col du Turini by at least three of the principle routes (Sospel, La Bollène-Vésubie and L’Escarène via Luceram and the 'lacets' Baisse de la Cabanette). The climbs must be completed in a single day (of twenty four hours) but may be done in any order and on any date that suits the rider. SÉCURITÉ & CONTRÔLES Each participant is considered to be unsupported and must pay close attention to and obey all local, municipal and national traffic rules and regulations. Each participant must ensure they have any and all relevant insurance cover. The route card is included with any Café du Cycliste Audax product purchase. Cards are also available at Café du Cycliste in Nice. During the period June to September, the card should be authenticated by being stamped by any business owner or local official in Sospel, La Bollène-Vésubie and L’Escarène as well as at the summit. Outside this period, or where this method proves impossible, authentication is permissible by photographic proof or via Strava. HOMOLOGATION At the finish of the day, the participant should present their original route card to the organisers (at Café du Cycliste) to be verified. On successful completion, each participant will be awarded the Col du Turini badge. The times of authentication must be marked on the route card as well as the date of the attempt. The absence of any single required control may lead to a refusal of verification. MEN'S AUDAX COLLECTION WOMEN'S AUDAX COLLECTION

Fly fishing at La Serpentine & Val d'Allos A fisherman retires from the water’s edge, collects his equipment and begins walking back to his car. On the way, he crosses a farmer who, seeing the rod, net, sling, rucksack and various other accessories smiles at the man facing him. “You know there are no fish in that river?” The fisherman responds; “Why did you have to tell me that!? You’ve just ruined a great day’s fishing” A fisherman retires from the water’s edge, collects his equipment and begins walking back to his car. On the way, he crosses a farmer who, seeing the rod, net, sling, rucksack and various other accessories smiles at the man facing him. “You know there are no fish in that river?” The fisherman responds; “Why did you have to tell me that!? You’ve just ruined a great day’s fishing” To fish is to play nature’s algorithm. Algorithm is the modern-day internet buzz word. Google, Facebook, every trading company on the stock market has their own world-beating secret super computer trick. If you don’t have an algorithm, you can’t demand the big bucks. Nature's algorithm came first, and it's still the one fly fishermen (and us cyclists) love to play the most. No river, no lake, no fish, no fly behaves the same way on any given day. Things change with every cubic metre that flows every second down the river bed, every single day. And that is the point. To fish is to be in nature, to stay in nature and to try to understand nature. Whether we can fully comprehend all the variables is a rhetorical question and one that keeps outdoor lovers coming back for more. To fish is to rise early and be there before the sun lights up the river. Up in the mountains, across the departmental line from the Alpes-Maritimes and into the Alpes-de-Haute-Provence there is a river that flows from a glacier lake into an amphitheater that is a slice of nature's finest offering. A waterway that twists almost as much as the Col de Turini, hiding in the mountains somewhere around 2,000m and surrounded by peaks that extend much, much higher. It is known as La Serpentine, and it rests just below Lac d'Allos, one of France’s most spectacular natural lakes. To fish is to read the river and the environment around you. Where is the sun, is there a blanket of valley floor fog, what is the water temperature, what is the stream flow rate? Where are you on the river; the small pocket flow in the beginning or the traditional runs, riffles, rapids and holes where the river plunges down the mountain side? Are there boulders providing shelter and feeding opportunities for fish in the fast flowing water? Riding the environment is also reading the environment and it is a familiar experience. From the Allos valley up the side road, through the forest and past the tree line to the car park at the trail head that leads us to the river. The climb reminds us that dead-end side roads are usually steeper than the cols that connect the valleys. The rewards are worth the pre-dawn effort. It is pure pleasure to read the environment at La Serpentine. Look up to the towering peaks of Mont Pelat, look down at the dying flowers that have turned from bright purple to ochre brown to indicate the end of both the fishing and competitive cycling season. But look mostly at the magical gradient of colours and textures from the autumn valley floor to the brilliant yellow and blue sunrise lit sky and thank yourself for that 5am rise. To fish is to think like the fish. It is the art of imitation. For a fly fisherman that starts with the fly. You might think the type of fly is the only variation but you would be wrong. For a start we must consider at what stage in the fly's life the desired fish are interested. The nymph, the emerger, the adult. Or the streamer, the bait, the grasshopper. We're told some fishermen can get caught in a fly-tying obsession so badly that they forget to actually go fishing.... At La Serpentine the experienced fisherman (maybe not the cyclist) would recognise the overhanging edge and the undercut of the river's flow which provides the perfect hiding place for the trout. It's relatively shallow, relatively slow moving water. Would you take a nymph instead of an adult fly to tempt an aggressive fish out from beneath the banks? To fish is to perfect your cast. Like fly tying, this is in itself an art form. Search the internet or the never-ending fly fishing guide books and you'll find full dissertations on the methods and the masters of this element of piscary. How will you cast to get a fly pattern that might resemble the real thing? Where will you land the fly? How will you get a good drift towards the hungry prey? Even amateurs can have fun, with the backlight of the sunrise, making shapes with their lines. The leader and the tippet snake their way through the air like the water cuts through the ground. At La Serpentine the swoosh is the only noise that compliments the sound of the river. Like planning a ride, you cast far or short, fast or flowing and see what it brings. To fish is to select your equipment. Rod, reel (or no reel), backing line, leader, tippet, hook, fly, fly box, waders, polaroid sunglasses, net, knife...the list is endless. Preparation is key for success at the water’s edge. For cyclists, Tenkara fly fishing makes a lot of sense. A rod with no reel, a line tied to the end and all foldable into a tube that fits easily on a rear rack or across a handlebar pack. Lightweight and flexible for any opportunity that arises on a gravel ride. To fish is to explore your region and beyond. River basins of the main waterway, fed by the more minor rivers, each river has its different sections. From the source to the sea, rock pools to rapids through boulders. Rivers are a whole book in themselves. Which is why gravel riding and fishing go hand in hand. Away from the road and its temptation of speed, the lure of going far, the ever watchful Strava eyes, gravel slows things down. There is an argument to say the slower you go, the more you appreciate your surroundings. And it forces you to look at different parts of the map. From the Lac d’Allos road, further south there is a dotted line leading to the Cascade de la Lance. Once all the fish are aware of our presence at La Serpentine it is time to change it up – a faster river, more pools, a completely different feeling. To fish is to forget. From one river to the next, from sunrise to sunset, from hiding in the reeds to standing in the pool. Immersing yourself in the activity and its setting. Concentration on the moment to the exclusion of all other things. Like the focus required to climb an hors catégorie climb at the end of a hard ride or to pick a line between the roots and the rocks on a steep chemin. To keep turning the pedals and understand how to conquer the road ahead. To fish is an excuse. An excuse to buy equipment. An excuse to spend hours on maps looking for new locations. An excuse to go to the mountains. An excuse to be by yourself. Does that sound familiar? If nothing else, to fish is another reason to ride.

CERVELO R5 “one of the very best-handling bikes on the market” VeloNews An exceptionally high performance road bike that all starts with a unique geometry built to maximise pedalling efficiency. The R5's careful balancing of stiffness and weight results in a bike that accelerates quickly but is stable and predictable at speed. Rent the R5 and experience our local climbs like Col d’Eze and Col de Turini, both featuring in the 2020 Tour de France. Each bike is rented with a toolkit, a rear light and a complimentary bidon. Subject to availability and if required, the rental can also include pedals, a Specialized helmet and shoes. Cost / Day: 85 Euros Sizes: 51, 54, 56, 58 BOOK A CERVELO R5 CERVELO ÁSPERO “pure speed with exceptional handling” Peloton Magazine A new kind of gravel machine engineered for pure, unapologetic speed even on the roughest of routes. Leveraging vast knowledge from road racing, the Áspero delivers predictable control no matter how unpredictable the conditions are. Rent the Áspero and discover the routes away from the roads in the Alpes Maritime, like those featured in our Riviera Gravel series. Each bike is rented with a toolkit, a rear light and a complimentary bidon. Subject to availability and if required, the rental can also include pedals, a Specialized helmet and shoes. Cost / Day: 75 Euros Sizes: 51, 54, 56 BOOK A CERVELO ÁSPERO

Where we ride - Local Climbs Explore some of the most celebrated climbs in Europe. And a few less celebrated but no less good. LA MADONE D'UTELLE ALTITUDE: 1174 M LENGTH: 15.30 KM ASCENT: 894 M AVERAGE GRADIENT: 5,8 % MAX GRADIENT: 8 % START: SAINT JEAN LA RIVIÈRE VIEW MOREVIA STRAVA COL DE TENDE ALTITUDE: 1863 M LENGTH: 7.40 KM ASCENT: 587 M AVERAGE GRADIENT: 8.0 % MAX GRADIENT: 18 % START: TENDE TUNNEL VIEW MOREVIA STRAVA COL DE LA MADONE ALTITUDE: 925 M LENGTH: 13.30 KM ASCENT: 920 M AVERAGE GRADIENT: 7.0 % MAX GRADIENT: 12 % START: MENTON VIEW MOREVIA STRAVA COL DE TURINI ALTITUDE: 1604 M LENGTH: 24.00 KM ASCENT: 1244 M AVERAGE GRADIENT: 5.2 % MAX GRADIENT: 9.3 % START: SOSPEL VIEW MOREVIA STRAVA COL DE VENCE ALTITUDE: 963 M LENGTH: 9.70 KM ASCENT: 643 M AVERAGE GRADIENT: 6.63 % MAX GRADIENT: 9.0 % START: VENCE VIEW MOREVIA STRAVA COL DE BROUIS ALTITUDE: 879 M LENGTH: 11.90 KM ASCENT: 531 M AVERAGE GRADIENT: 4.46 % MAX GRADIENT: 7.3 % START: SOSPEL VIEW MOREVIA STRAVA COL DE LA BONETTE ALTITUDE: 2802 M LENGTH: 25.80 KM ASCENT: 1652 M AVERAGE GRADIENT: 6.4 % MAX GRADIENT: 15 % START: SAINT-ÉTIENNE-DE-TINÉE VIEW MOREVIA STRAVA COL D'ÈZE ALTITUDE: 507 M LENGTH: 10.00 KM ASCENT: 490 M AVERAGE GRADIENT: 4.9 % MAX GRADIENT: 10 % START: NICE VIEW MOREVIA STRAVA MONT VENTOUX ALTITUDE: 1912 M LENGTH: 22.70 KM ASCENT: 1622 M AVERAGE GRADIENT: 7.2 % MAX GRADIENT: 10.8 % START: BEDOIN VIEW MOREVIA STRAVA COL DE BRAUS ALTITUDE: 1002 M LENGTH: 10.30 KM ASCENT: 662 M AVERAGE GRADIENT: 6.43 % MAX GRADIENT: 15 % START: L'ESCARÈNE VIEW MOREVIA STRAVA MONT VIAL ALTITUDE: 1549 M LENGTH: 17.60 KM ASCENT: 1195 M AVERAGE GRADIENT: 6.79 % MAX GRADIENT: 12.5 % START: VESCOUS VIEW MOREVIA STRAVA

Where we ride - Rides Where we ride is who we are and what we do. All of our clothing is inspired by the roads and routes, both on our doorstep and slightly further afield. VENCE & COL Take the piste cyclable west and then climb the side of the Var valley and over to the pretty artists town of Vence. VIA STRAVA ANTIBES Simply take the cycle path west along the sea front, keeping an eye out for rollerbladers and for cars filtering on and off the main road. ASPREMONT & LEVENS A lot of ups and downs in a short ride here, with the reward of great views over the Var valley, the Alpes Maritimes and the sea. BRAUS & TURINI Two of the big boys of the Alps Maritimes – the beautiful Col de Braus and the imposing Turini. After warming up on the gentle Col de Nice, Braus takes you up sculpted switchbacks to 1,002m. DURANUS & ST. BLAISE Take the cycle path from Nice and then at Saint Laurent du Var take up the Var valley cycle path. It climbs slowly to where the Var, Tinée and Vésubie river gorges meet. THE ESTEREL & TANNERON This route takes you into the Esterel national park west of Cannes. Take a train to Cannes and ride out along the sandy beach or, if you want a long (160km) ride, simply head out along the cycle path from Nice. ÈZE & MADONE This is one of the classic rides of the region, which takes in two legendary climbs and hits you with a 10% slope right at the start while you're still in the middle of town. GILETTE & BONSON The cycle path on the western side of the Var river is an easy and flat route into the arrière pays, the deserted hinterland behind Nice. MORTOLA Head out of Nice towards Monaco, cliffs to your left, sparkling sea to your right and then ride a portion of the famous F1 Grand Prix course in Monte Carlo.

Fête des Zinzins Fête des Zinzins. A celebration of the Brevet des Zinzins de Turini for a select group of cycling assassins. Assassins trained to kill cols with their legs using only carbon, a bit of forged aluminum, and a lot of force and determination. These are those willing and, maybe-hopefully-possibly, capable of three times Turini. Scaling each side of the mountain triangle, that is no mean human feat. Kieran, Valentin, Saif, Pierre, Sonny, Thierry, Matthew, Nico et Denis. Each to a man possess the correct amount of mental (dys)functions when it comes to two-wheeled challenges. Tenacity, curiosity, audacity...and maybe a little crazy - French translation : zinzin. It’s almost an hour’s riding from the Café to the first control stamp at Pan d'Aqui, L'Escarène - the boulangerie beside the bridge. The bread had been cooked, the question on everyone's mind was how well done their legs would be by the end of the day. 'Bien cuit, bien sûr’ Old bornes are the best bornes. This one, at Lucéram is an in-house Café favourite, apart from the remaining distance indicated. It's a full 27kms for the FIRST climb from L'Escarène via Lucéram. Do not rush, let the mountain rhythm come to you. The twisting and turning really starts between the Pas de l'Escous and the Baisse de la Cabanette. That’s a 'pas', then a 'baisse' before the premier arrival at the col. It takes a lot of research and debate to distinguish between these three terms relating to peaks, points and passages in the mountains. Multi-layered folds of the earth's crust criss-crossed with mazes of quiet roads linking the perched hamlets to the valley villages below are part of what make Turini so special. It takes a brave Zinzin to race another on this Brevet. This group is crazy, not stupid and so riders find their place on the road based on pace. Pierre, Matthew and Nico show their form at the front, Thierry and Denis share memories of previous adventures, the Micheline brothers Valentin and Sonny admire each other's cycling jerseys, whilst Saif and Ivan appreciate the place as it's Saif's first visit. What a way to introduce yourself to Turini. Through Peïra-Cava and into the freshness of the alpine forest on the cooler north side of the mountain. The first arrival at the col is barely acknowledged given the task ahead. But then the stamping of the cards amongst the pinball machine collection that resides in the bar attached to Hotel Les Chamois is a clear yellow and black marker of the achievement so far. When pondering a challenge based on climbing it's all too easy to forget the other not so insignificant part of the ride. Down to Sospel takes approximately 45 mins which is an indication of both the length and complexity of the southern facing side. It requires both effort and concentration and is no small part in the challenge of this Brevet. The group lines out for the hairpins nestled below the Notre dame de Menaour. Sospel is known more as a mountain bike town. Today it's central fountain is zinzin. Denis is feeling the heat. Maybe it's the fatigue of the new baby in the house and not just the high 20's barometer reading. Immersion in the water is the only option. Water, food, cards stamped, the group turns around quickly, eager to get the second ascension in the bag because two thirds is better than one half. After the fact it is common perception that the 24km climb from Sospel is the hardest. Changes in pitch, the heat of the Gorge du Piaon, the rough road surface after Moulinet, the painted kilometre count-down in the unrelenting 8% of the forest at the top all contribute to a testing second climb. Counting switchbacks in the forest becomes difficult as the trees block visual reference points and the gradient never relents. Tiredness affects judgement and the col is hidden from view. Why do humans always push their limits this way and in others? To create a sense of control over themselves, or their surroundings? Is it a kind of self-destruction? Simple endorphin addiction? There is logic (but also a certain lack of fear) in the statement that you cannot know where the limit is if you never go past it. On this particular day for some of the Zinzins, two climbs was the limit. The beauty of an open brevet, however, is that it will always be there to be ridden when time, weather and form allows. There is no number to be pinned, no entry fee to be paid. Just an old-fashioned card to be stamped in an old-fashioned manner to justify some good old-fashioned simple mountain riding. And thus the selection for the third and final up-and-down was made, with Pierre, Matthew and Nico still all looking frustratingly fresh and even excited at the prospect. The third descent has been referred to in Cyclist Magazine as 'the best in the world'. Consistent surface, corners with predictable radii and good visibility for a majority of the road all mean that speeds are as a high as the fun factor. La Bollène-Vesubie is the sleepiest of the three base towns of the Turini. Perched two kilometres above the Vesubie valley it could be tempting to stay and then roll down beside the river back to the seaside. However, with a Brevet card five-sixths full, abandoning now is not an option. Settle in and pedal for somewhere between one to one-and-a-quarter hours to Zinzin glory. The remaining group make it look easy. At this stage rhythm is there. Bodies and minds have accepted this mountain and the effort required to climb it. At the top there is even the energy for a race to the summit between wheelie-pulling Nico and Matthew. Pierre trails by a few seconds but pulls a Contador-style pistol in front of an infectious smile, letting out a bit of his internal crazy in a moment of finish-line happiness.   RIDERS' NOTES Discover the Brevet des Zinzins de Turini HERE Komoot Route Footnotes: Photography : Matt Wragg

DUE NORTH It must be a common thought amongst many cyclists faced with a point to point journey. "Why not do that by bike some day?" Turning two hours in a pressurised cabin full of recycled air with 100 plus strangers into a seven day, fresh air adventure across an entire country between three close friends. An adventure that distills cycling down to its core. From the minutiae of pre-ride planning to the moral fibre of our chosen sport or, dare we say it, our lifestyle. Turning two hours in a pressurised cabin full of recycled air with 100 plus strangers into a seven day, fresh air adventure across an entire country between three close friends. An adventure that distills cycling down to its core. From the minutiae of pre-ride planning to the moral fibre of our chosen sport or, dare we say it, our lifestyle. So what about joining the Café du Cycliste dots and connecting HQ on the Old Port to the flagship store in the City? Nice to London. Sun to the City.     It was a task deserving of our resident long distance expert, Matthieu, aka Manivelle.cc. A flâneur on a bike, Matthieu was instantly and slightly over-enthusiastically committed to the concept. Even it if means riding from sun, into headwind, into rain. It is London, England after all. But first thing is France. Or to be more or less precise, her many regions and the bounty that their diverse landscapes provide. And for bounty, of course, read wine. Enter Elisabeth. Très française, très gentil, très bien éduquée dans au vin. Elisabeth likes to dance, she likes to cycle, but most of all, she likes wine. Gregory makes up the triumvirate. Born in Lyon, living in Berlin, Europe is his playground. He says his accomplices are drinkers with a cycling problem, a statement which will be tested out on the road. Details. Pre-departure is all about the details. The equipment: luggage and luggage packing, tyres and tyre pressures, clothing and clothing accessories, spares and second spares. And a knife. Always take a knife. The route. Planning progress against preferred minor road choices. Planning around the weather. Planning the mid-morning, mid-day, mid-afternoon stops. Planning the over-night halts. And planning the drinks menu. The finest of each region. Bandol, Côteaux Aix-en-Provence, Chateauneuf du Pape, right up to Calvados before the channel hop. All has to be thought about. On the road. The cold snowy winter pushed the pencil line on the map west of any possible mountain traverses. A precautionary trajectory was made along the coast towards Fréjus before cutting north west on a few higher roads leading to the Rhone valley. Riding out any unexpected faults in preparation, and settling into the task ahead. A little over 230kms as a prologue. And a refreshing rosé to end the first day. Once in the valley for Day Two, it was a game of dare and double dare with the wind. As happens, the triumvirate lost. In other words, 228kms into a headwind. Had it been day five, it could have broken morale quite quickly. But as it is, an Audax a day keeps the doctor away, and London in sight. The following days promised small roads, winding between rapeseed fields and small villages with cafés with eccentric patrons. Behaviour changes on a multi-day brevet. From civilized humans, a certain devolution takes place, and primal behaviours begin to dominate. The days and the kilometres pass by with a disconcerting sweetness, but preservation of the body is the primary concern. Listen to its hunger, its thirst. Locate the good bakeries and shops where quick refuelling can take place - fruit, sweets, peanuts, the best grab and go snacks you can find. That way the length of the stops are minimized. Sweeping, curving roads wind out in front and behind, caressing the undulations of the landscape and slowly becoming hypnotic. The details are now buried in a pile of kilometres and a million pedal revolutions. It becomes difficult to know which day it is and where exactly you are riding. The beep of the Garmin indicates the next route marker. Follow with familiarity and trust. Due North is becoming embedded in the internal global positioning systems of the three riders and eventually long distance becomes a constant motion blur. They skirt the big cities, barely touching them. Outsiders, traversing a country without a steel cage and a motor. Our nation's capital is avoided and suddenly, in the blink of a long-distance eye, after saying goodbye to the Mediterranean a few days ago, there is Dieppe and the return of the sea. Euphoria seizes everyone. The port also realigns the senses. It must mean it is Friday, as planned. France has been conquered in the allotted six days and the only thing hidden from customs before boarding the ferry is the 1200kms in the legs. The bottles of cider and calvados, on the other hand, are fully declared. A new day in Newheaven. On the road it feels like relearning everything again. It's the first time all three cyclists have ridden in England. Everything is upside down and details try to sneak back into a consciousness that had become accustomed to the flow of France. The English version of cycle friendly, quiet paths resemble mountain bike pistes rather than pistes cyclables. Progress feels worryingly slow. Thankfully, with 150kms to go to London, three friends are riding to meet the trio. At East Grinstead, they come together for an escort into the City. And here it is. A surreal sixty minutes traversing London, trying to make it in time for the shop closing. With twenty minutes to spare there is champagne in the city, on the footpath outside Café du Cycliste London. Three French friends who don't really know yet what they've just done. There is nothing else for it but to go to the pub, wash it all down with a few beers and celebrate the fact that they pierced France like an arrow and hit bullseye, right on time, in central London. RIDERS' NOTES Strava File - https://www.strava.com/activities/1526572500 Footnotes: Photography : Manivelle.cc

Haute couture cap Madame Marnier-Lapostolle was simply seeking to downsize. Thirty-five acres of gardens, an Olympic-size swimming pool and room for 30 horses had become a bit of burden. She should have known the house sale might have caused a few ripples in the global property pond. It is after all Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat. And since M. Marnier-Lapostolle put up a price tag of 1.1 billion dollars for her too-big-to-maintain Villa les Cèdres, the small peninsula beside Villefranche is known as the most expensive real estate in the world. It didn’t used to be that way. Cap Ferrat and, in fact, much of the French Riviera, was just normal coast line where normal people had their normal holidays. One-piece bathing suits and big hair capped in bonnets to enjoy the sun and the sea. It took nearly 30 years after the original construction of Grand Hotel Cap Ferrat for the tide to turn from aristocrats wintering on the coast to artists and beatniks coming for summer sun in the early 1930s. The tide changed partly due to the filming of Don Quioxte by a German filmmaker. The film’s crew stayed in the hotel during the production and were so influenced by the beauty of the location that they returned with their families the next year. After the Second World War that came as close as destroying the lighthouse beside the hotel, the bohemians arrived in the summer in deliberate contrast to the wintering elite. At the start of the peninsula, where Villefranche simultaneously merges into Cap Ferrat and Beaulieu-sur-Mer, is Villa Nellcôte. It's here that exile by the tax man led to Exile on Main Street. Avoiding 93% income tax, the Stones turned the baroque building, also a former Gestapo HQ, into an open house party venue with a recording studio in the vast but damp and dingy basement. The Provençal air and sea views allowed the sparks to ignite and create one of the band’s most famous albums. Nowadays bankers and industrialists reportedly own most of the villas that hide amongst the cedar trees behind faux hedges and high walls. It’s ironic that the other original crown jewel of the Cap is the Villa de Rothschild, built by Beatrice Ephrussi de Rothschild from the original and famous banking family. Rumour has it that the Villa is currently being sold. If that is the case then Madame Marnier-Lapostolle’s sale might be surpassed. In between the villas and the super-yachts is the sentier littoral, the walking path which outlines the entire cap and links the bays and beaches. You can isolate yourself from the headlines and the temptation to peak through the holes in the high hedges and over the automatic gates and soak in the light that Matisse and others so adored. And with that light you can forget the attention grabbing headlines and speculative price-tags and enjoy the place for what has been described as 'an earthly slice of paradise'.

Due north: Sun to the city Since our London Store opened, it's been on the 'to do' list. The task? Join the Café du Cycliste dots and ride from HQ in Nice to the big smoke. It's a self-made Audax of sorts and a ride of contrasts. Traverse the mother land and soak in the wine and the paysage, hop the channel and ride the relatively short distance to the City and all it's English-ness. Who better to complete the task than three long-distance amigos. They were Born To Ride together - completing Chilkoot's longest event in 2016 from Vézelay to Barcelona. Since then, the trio have been everywhere and anywhere but not so much together. On Sunday they are reunited to head Due North. Meet the team: Matthieu aka Manivelle : long-distance lover, ambassador, graphic designer and general flâneur on a bike. He nearly bit our hand off when we first suggested the adventure. Since then he's be planning, drawing, rounding up the troops and generally whipping up a storm. Elisabeth : teacher, but more importantly a meticulous long-distance randonneur. Everything must be correct, organised, and prepped. Rumour has it she will be the beer and wine expert to ensure recovery is taken seriously each evening. Gregory : TCR NO.3 Finisher, Lyonnais living in Berlin. His instagram profile states 'why have abs when you can have kebabs'. We think Gregory won't be disappointed with the food options when he gets to London. The route card details a parcours measuring 1,400kms, consisting of seven days and one ferry. Their schedule, including drinks, is as follows: Day No. / Kms / Hydration J1 : 235 — Midi : Bandol • Soir : Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence J2 : 240 — Midi : Chateauneuf du Pape • Soir : Côte Rôtie J3 : 235 — Midi : Beaujolais • Soir : Givry J4 : 220 — Midi : Bière de Vezelay • Soir : Chablis J5 : 220 — Midi : Bière Crazy Hops • Soir : Jasnières J6 : 125 + FERRY — Midi : cidre • Soir : Calvados J7 : 160 — Midi & Soir : Bière » Arrivée Café du Cycliste London Look out for stories on our Instagram account to follow the journey.

Les Courses Disparues #5 : Mont Faron “COURTE MAIS DIFFICILE!” "Viens poupoule, viens poupoule, viens..." So sang Félix Mayol, the actor and singer who was Toulon’s brightest star for the first few decades of the 1900s. He returned to fire the starter’s pistol, releasing the riders to chase the summit of the town’s geographical crown and high-wire finish of our latest Course Disparue – Mont Faron Mayol may not have been on the same level as the A-list Hollywood stars that graced Cannes but that somehow suits the naval port of Toulon with its shipyards, rugby team and strong working-class identity. In its heyday 50,000 supporters would turn out to catch not only a glimpse of the City’s prodigal son, but also Europe’s finest riders. The founding newspapers l’Echo des Sports and Le Journal had done their job in converting their readership to the spectacle of bicycle racing on the Côte d’Azur. Originally a course en ligne in 1920, the first iteration of the race was run in the same format as a classic road race but with a twist. At only five kilometres in length but climbing 500 metres in the process makes the maths easy – one in ten and therefore one for the climbers. Mont Faron was their amphitheatre, standing dominant over Toulon. The parcours would take riders from the Maritime Hospital, up the narrow and winding road and past the “Trou du Diable”, a ravine over 100m deep and where the gradient would kick up to over 14%, before reaching the summit. A special ingredient of the Lost Races was the ability of amateurs to put themselves up again the big names. Louis Minardi was a local niçois climbing specialist, who raced for l’A.V.A.N Cycling Club. In 1930 he won both the race to La Turbie and the G.P de Nice. But few predicted he would be able to take on the pro riders from around Europe, including none other than the domineering Pélissier brothers. The other special ingredient of these races is that, being one day, and sometimes short format events, miracles can happen. From start to finish Minardi rode “complètement déchainé” – completely unchained. By the time he reached the Trou du Diable he’d already built a lead of over 100 metres and from there he didn’t look back and crossed the line a full 500m ahead of the chasers. Mont Faron proved to be a springboard for Minardi. He won at Mont Agel a few weeks later and took third place at the prestigious GP de Cannes. He would eventually make a name for himself on the “demi-fond” (middle-distance) circuit, becoming French champion in 1939. After the war, in 1952, a contre-la-montre event was added to the race schedule. The time trial parcours differed from the “course en ligne”; starting near Hyères further west along the coast, running flat through La Valette and into Toulon, then finishing with the famous 5km climb up Mont Faron. In all totalling around 26km, the flat départ and summit arrivée required a mix of flat out speed and controlled climbing that would make the race a unique challenge It’s well documented that l’Éternel Second, Raymond Poulidor, could climb with the best of them but his passage to the top step of the podium was blocked by Monsieur Chrono himself, Jacques Anquetil. In 1961 the Mont Faron race was a watershed moment for Poupou, during the season when he revealed himself as a true contender. He won Milan-San Remo in stunning style, surprising all the favourites; leaving Rik Van Looy perplexed as to who this young Frenchman was. At the Mont Faron chrono, Anquetil, Bahamontes, Bobet and Dotto were all on the starting list. Poulidor was going up against the masters of each trade. It was on the second part of the course, the climb, that Poulidor made his mark, posting a finishing time sixteen seconds ahead of the Spaniard. The results confirmed his potential and the headlines read: “Poulidor meilleur escaladeur que Bahamontes!” – “Poulidor, a better climber than Bahamontes”. The rest is history, although with hindsight perhaps the headlines should have read “Poulidor bat Anquetil contre la montre”. However, Bahamontes was the real King of Faron. He had an affinity with the races of the Côte d’Azur, taking his first professional victory in 1954 on the similar Nice - Mont Agel course en ligne, and following it up one year later with his premier win on Faron. Whilst some of the top riders elected to only ride the TT, Bahamontes enjoyed the prospect of a pure climber’s race, and would regularly compete in both, presumably to sharpen his early season form. It worked. He won the course en ligne three times and took four time-trial titles, and in the process put Poulidor back in his natural position. The Eagle spread his wings over Mont Faron. The final running of the Le Mont Faron in 1970 was a beginning for a young Bernard Thévenet, who took his first professional win. The race may have been lost but the climb remained iconic, featuring in the 1957 tour, the Paris-Nice many times (including a revolutionary descending prize just like recent and controversial Giro d'Italia project) and as a part of the furniture on the Tour Méditerranéen. But alas the road is too narrow and the races and their caravans are too large. Whilst it may have been deemed too “small” by the powers that be, it’s here, in our region, to be ridden and many can attest to the fact that it’s more “difficile” than “courte”. RIDERS’ NOTES A one-way system is now in place on the road up, over and down Mont Faron. If you want to ride your own approximation of the course en ligne, simply follow the Mont Faron STRAVA SEGMENT To enjoy the area we suggest you ride west towards Bormes-les-Mimosa and follow the route of Jean Bobet's beautifully described La Volupté. Read more about the races that gone but not forgotten in our Courses Disparues series. Photography : Antton Miettinen

WHERE TO RIDE FROM NICE – ÈZE & MADONE This is one of the classic rides of the region, which takes in two legendary climbs and hits you with a 10% slope right at the start while you're still in the middle of town. The Grande Corniche is the highest road heading east from Nice, and is the scene of the Col d'Èze Time Trial, a traditional finishing stage of Paris-Nice. Sean Kelly held the record for climbing this for years, until Bradley Wiggins beat him in 2012. At the top, grab a coffee or refill your water bottle in La Turbie, then descend to Menton where the climb to the Col de la Madone begins. The Madone has been the training ground of Tony Rominger, Lance Armstrong and many others, and is a tough yet beautiful climb, quiet and never too steep, with great sea views into Italy. From the top of the Madone it’s a technical descent to the T junction near Peille and then a gentle downhill back to La Turbie where, after another coffee perhaps, you take the Moyenne Corniche back into town. key kit Dorothée Gilet. The road off the back of the Madone and valley ride back to La Turbie can be chilly at either end of the day. Pack a superlight gilet that will keep you protected on the long descent back to Nice. VIEW THE GILET RIDE INSIGHTS The Best Socca In The World is a matter of opinion but comes after a classic niçoise ride out west on the Grande Corniche over Col d’Eze to Menton before turning north and then east over the infamous Col de la Madone. READ MORE 1 - THE ROUTE DOWNLOAD GPX Please login or create an account to download file. 2 - RENT AND RIDE Travel light and book your bike. We offer a range of rental bikes, the R5 Cervelo road bike and the Aspero Cervelo gravel bike along with titanium road bikes from French marque Leon. Each bike is complete with pedals, tool bag and rear light while, if needed, each rental can also include Specialized shoes and helmet. VIEW OUR RENTAL BIKES 3 - THE CAFÉ Located on the Old Port, our café is the prefect pre and post-ride meeting place. With some routes that begin almost outside, excellent coffee and a full range of our clothing collections for men and women. There are weekly rides as well if you’d like to discover riding on the Cote D’Azur with like minded companions. You can find us at: 16 Quai des Docks 06300 Nice other rides When the ville of Nice decided to use #nicecyclingparadise to promote the grand depart of the 2020 Tour de France, there was definite method in the madness. If Paradise Lost has over ten thousand lines of verse, this cycling paradise found has almost as many routes, roads, stretches, views, climbs, cols, lacets, stops and starting points. Enough at least to satisfy even the most discerning cyclist. NISSA ALL-ROAD Linking two classic Alpes-Maritimes cols via a gravel ridge-line ride on a loop that takes you from portside to the heart of the mountains and back again. VIEW THE RIDE MONT CHAUVE Mont Chauve, known as Nice’s ‘bald mountain’, proves that nature constructed one of the best viewpoints the city has to offer. VIEW THE RIDE BONETTE Join the climb directly from the village and get ready for a day of zero flat riding by climbing and descending both sides of the mountain,. VIEW THE RIDE Cap d'Antibes A classic Cote d’Azur roll-out that hugs the sea heading west and arrives at one of the region’s most well-known towns. Ideal out of season when the heat is lowered and the town itself is quiet. VIEW THE RIDE Gilette & Bonson The extraordinary back country of Nice opens up behind the coast and this ride provides easy access. Enough climbing to be a challenge without being too daunting. VIEW THE RIDE Esterel & Adrets This route takes you into the Esterel national park west of Cannes. Take a train to Cannes and ride out along the sandy beach – or, if you want a long (160km) ride, simply head out along the cycle path from Nice. VIEW THE RIDE Mortola Ride a portion of the famous F1 Grand Prix course in Monte Carlo, and then climb out towards Menton, the last town in France, and over the border. It may be short but it includes two countries and into one principality. VIEW THE RIDE Vence It includes a col from our Montaignes a la Carte series as well as unforgettable views and a route away from the madding crowds. Climb the side of the Var valley and over to the pretty artists’ town of Vence itself. VIEW THE RIDE BRAUS & TURINI A ride that includes two of the majestic cols from our Montaignes a la Carte series. VIEW THE RIDE DURANUS & SAINT BLAISE Head up the valley to where three rivers meet, climb higher still and take the time to look around. VIEW THE RIDE Our Badges To celebrate the local climbs and the roads we ride, we’ve created a badge for each of our local cols, collected together in our Montagne à la Carte series. The hard part of collecting your badge is climbing the col. Do the ride and claim the badges for Col d'Éze and Col de la Madone. HOW TO CLAIM A BADGE

Les Courses Disparues #4 : Grand Prix de Cannes From the Palais des Festivals on the Croisette in Cannes to the Col de l’Ecre it’s only 34kms. Red carpet to 1,118m in a heart beat. Or several beats per minute if you are racing one of Les Courses Disparues on the Côte d’Azur, like Grand Prix de Cannes. This Lost Race has an illustrious list of winners. Le Roi René Vietto, Louison Bobet, Rudi Altig, Frans Verbeeck, Sean Kelly, Sean Yates and Laurent Fignon have all stood on the top step of the podium. Cannes has a reputation built entirely on 20th century villas from the Belle Époque, sunny sandy beaches and the red carpet of the Palais des Festivals. Like the film festival, the alure of the race was in no doubt partly because of its location and the entertainment provided to the touring elite. Given the location, you might be forgiven for thinking the race was one for sprinters. Indeed, Sean Kelly and the rouleur Sean Yates both took victories. But Yates only found success after a winter of exile in an apartment which he had decided would be a food-free zone. With its profil acéré – sharp, like sharks’ teeth - and distances of up to 200kms, it was a one-day classic climb-fest. Early years saw the race go west on the coast to the Corniche d’Or before returning through the hills and red rock of the Esterel national park. Racers then flashed back through the Croissette for the fans on their way east to Antibes before climbing to Vence, then above to Gourdon, just below the snow line. Then came the rush back to town, sometimes with the montée de Cabris to provide a final test and give any escapees with a chance to stay away. It was an important race in the calendar that came at the end of the first week of racing on the Côte d’Azur. The professionals had been on the coast for maybe two months or more. The training blocks under the winter sun were done, au bord du la mer or in the collines behind. Now came the time to fine-tune form in race conditions before the Spring Classics or early stage races like Paris-Nice. Whilst the Boucle de Sospel and Col de Braus are more recognized as the building blocks of René Vietto’s professional career, the GP de Cannes was literally his hometown race. The Cannois unsurprisingly holds the record number of victories, having taken back-to-back victories in 1932 and 1933 as he announced himself on the professional circuit. Post-war, towards the end of his career and after opening his own bike shop in the town, Vietto lined up for one final fling. Having been involved in choosing the parcours for the 1948 edition, the organisers, the locals even the commissaire expected nothing less than glory. But Italian grimpeur Paul Néri, winner of the race two years previously, had other ideas and attacked on the Col de Gourdon. It forced Vietto and compatriat Edouard Fachleitner to chase and when the catch was made, a hectic descent from Grasse to Cannes ensued. As they kicked for the line Néri, the better sprinter, tried to catch Vietto unaware by going up the narrow left side, shouting at him to get out of the way. Vietto was not going to give up his last Grand Prix de Cannes and squeezed Néri out to take the win, but he was outraged at Néri’s tactics. A brawl ensued before René’s entourage restrained him. This was René's race. Sometimes the race started before the ‘b’ of the bang. With the weeks of February and March filled with races, there was a lot of talk amongst the professionals about who was racing where. Combined with the threat to forme and health by riding in unpredictable weather, the gamesmanship began days before a wheel was turned. In 1964 it was a mise-en-scène of the battle between two giants of French cycling. Both Jacques Anquetil and Raymond Poulidor decided not to race the Prix de Saint-Raphäel the day before GP de Cannes due to icy rain and low temperatures. Poulidor was motivated “Je suis solide et dur au mal” – I am strong and tough. (Needless to say he had finished second in the race the previous year.) Anquetil stated if the bad weather continued he would not risk his season just for one race, whilst also relaying his soigneur’s reports that he was strong and recovering from training efforts faster than ever. Another second place for Pou-Pou? Come the day of the race, Anquetil remained quiet, tucked deep in the peloton to shelter from any possible bad weather. Poulidor was active. At the front, he attacked with 35kms to go on the Côte de Cabris, a tactic local racers didn’t recommend – as Raoul Rémy had shouted at Louison Bobet in 1954, “no one has ever won the GP de Cannes by attacking so early in the race”. Anquetil did not chase. With Jeannine Anquetil waiting with the car in case her husband wanted to abandon, obviously the pre-race talk was not a bluff. Poulidor soloed to victory, proving his form that season and to himself and the world that in a climbing tête-a-tête, he could beat Maître Jacques. The response? “It's long season, very long. And we'll have time to fight, Raymond and me.” And so it was, for more than one season. The combination of the early season date and one-day race format made the Grand Prix de Cannes attractive to the big names and the neo-pros alike. Maybe that is why it enjoyed a longer life into the 1980s and 90s. It grew in strength and attracted the big teams, like Renault-Elf and their latest signing, Laurent Fignon. In his words, “I was a good new professional, but nothing out of the ordinary. Except that a few days later (sic – after being passed then re-passing Joop Zoetemelk on the Mont Faron time trial) I won the Grand Prix de Cannes”. It got him noticed. The following Monday during another one day race, La Flèche Azurènne, his team mates rode for him and not local favourite, Charly Bérard. Another french cycling legend had been born. Beneath the town's glitter and bling, away from the steps of the Palais des Festivals, the GP de Cannes proves that the Côte d’Azur was (and still is) where spring classic wins, grand tour glories, professional careers and legends began life. Vietto, Bobet, Anquetil, Pouildor, Fignon. Pillars of French cycling with foundations laid on the Riviera. Read more about the races that gone but not forgotten in our Courses Disparues series. _____________________ RIDERS' NOTES We would recommend splitting it into two rides, with one westerly adventure to the beautiful l'Esterel and one east and north to Vence and eventually over the Col de l'Ecre.

Les Courses Disparues #3 : GP de Monaco The night before the race, Eddy Merckx arrived in Monaco with no less than six Molteni team-mates. The brief was simple. Start fast, thin out the group, make it hard for everyone. As they left the Principality the next day and rode west on the Basse Corniche, that’s exactly what they did. Arriving at Villefranche, the last town before Nice, the peloton was positively atkins-esque, dropping from 140 to 21. Game on. The race Merckx was strangling in his Cannibal grip was the Grand Prix de Monaco, the next in our series of Les Courses Disparues - the Lost Races of the Côte d’Azur The words Grand Prix and Monaco usually prompt images of the Principality in petrol-head mode. The cycling version, like it’s motorised counterpart, for sure attracted the big names – the Bobets, Geminiani, Merckx, de Vlaeminck, Roche and Kelly to name a few. Run mostly in February, like so many of the other Lost Races of the Cote d’Azur, it was an early season test of form. And with the attention-grabbing name and location, the history books show a series of teams trying to control what turned out to be an uncontrollable race. Molteni, Renault-Gitane, Peugeot… all of them tried to rule with a train of riders. The parcours was no coastal coast to a sprint finish, as the grande cyclistes would find out. Riders covered four laps of Les Trois Corniches, the three coast roads carved into the mountain side running between Nice and Menton – out on the Basse Corniche beside the sea, back three times on the Moyenne Corniche cut into the rocks around 200-400m above, before the final lap up to the Grande Corniche running near the top of the ridge. More than 160kms of that James Bond-esque loop helped whittle down the field before the crucial point of the race. The climb of the Château de Madrid, coming after approximately 150kms, made the link between the Moyenne and Grande Corniches and it was here the selection was normally made. It’s only a climb of 2kms but the gradient doesn’t relent until the point de vue Saint-Michel, over looking some of the most expensive real estate in the world situated on Cap Ferrat. And once on the Grand Corniche, it is up, ever up on the road to Col d’Eze. Tactic : attack before Saint-Michel and then hold it over the top before the eyeballs-out descent back to Monaco. The famous black and white checkers of the Peugeout Team came in 1981 as part of their season build up. Within that team was the Irish neo-pro, Stephen Roche. It was the year of his rise to fame. He won the Tour de Course, beating a certain Bernard Hinault, and also took the Paris-Nice. (In hindsight, maybe an early indication of his fondness for the south of France.) Roche was in the lead group as it hit the Château du Madrid hill and he used it as a launch pad to try and escape to victory. But he couldn’t shake the French riders Bernard Bourreau and Jean-René Bernadudeu. The three of them descended the Grande Corniche into Monaco and it was Bernadudau, now directeur sportif of Direct Énergie pro-continental team, who took the sprint. Roche only second as a reward for his attacking efforts. Two years later, in the last edition of the race, the other dominant Irish rider of the 80’s, Sean Kelly, found himself in a peloton chasing a breakaway led by in-form Kim Anderson that had escaped on the third pass through Monaco. Having lost a further 2'40' on the Château du Madrid climb, the peloton led, it can only be imagined, by Kelly and his infamous descending skills, chased the breakaway down the Grande Corniche towards Roquebrune. But once again the complex nature of the parcours proved impossible to predict. Anderson, riding for Coop – Mercier – Mavic, managed to stay away for the win by a slender 14 seconds. Kelly took the sprint, but in the process merely added his name to the list of illustrious second place finishers. If a climber and a sprinter and classics rider couldn’t crack the GP de Monaco code surely The Cannibal could? As if following a script, the fireworks were again on that small road with the Spanish-style villa. Frenchman Désiré Letort attacked first. Merckx responded. Then fellow Belgian, Frans Verbeeck, kicked last, and hardest. They could not shake Merckx and two of his Molteni men. The group of 21 became nine and the odds were in Merckx’s favour for the sprint on Monaco’s portside. Clearly confident, he launched himself early but Verbeeck came round him with nearly 200m to go and took one of the biggest wins of his career. Verbeeck, known as one of the hardest of the hard Flandrians went on, some would say, to becoming obsessed with beating Merckx in one of the Monuments . Maybe that obsession started after this victory in the GP de Monaco. Although he won a number of classics, like Amstel Gold (on the same year he won the GP de Monaco) he didn’t manage to take down the Cannibal where it mattered to him. But he’ll always have that Lost Race on the Côte d’Azur. Read more about the races that gone but not forgotten in our Courses Disparues series.

Les Courses Disparues #2 : Boucle de Sospel The René Vietto memorial at the top of Col de Braus sits so discretely in the parking area opposite the col sign, that you could easily miss it. As well as the memorial there is a wooden sign marking this as the Aire René Vietto. You might be more accustomed to seeing an ‘aire’ on the French autoroute – the service stations where you can get a very thick sandwich and bitter coffee whilst the rest of the traffic races by. As it turns out the aire Vietto used to be passed by racing traffic for a solid 26 years between 1922 and 1948. It was the half-way point and the main event of our next Course Disparue – Le Boucle de Sospel. Unlike Nice – Mont Agel, the Boucle de Sospel was not for the big names of the relatively new world of professional cycling. It was for the local amateurs and the ‘débutants’- the up and coming juniors. And as a breeding ground for local talent, the Boucle bore fruit from its rugged Alpes-Maritimes terroir. It was also inter-changeably known as Le Boucle de L’USTNL (Union Sportive des Tramways de Nice et du Littoral) the organising club, whose employer’s objective was to build a network linking Nice to several towns along the coast and the hinterlands with railways, just like the abandoned one that can still be seen on the Col de Castillon. They undoubtedly had sporting objectives but their partner, L’Eclaireur de Nice, followed the established trend amongst the bigger national publications of boosting circulation by making news with bike racing. As a valley town in the Alpes-Maritimes, the only way in and out of Sospel is by col. Three Cols – Nice, Braus and Castillon - provided the loop into the mountains and back to the coast at Menton. And the climbing did not stop there. The final ascent of the Grande Corniche to the town of La Turbie, meant a climb literally from sea level back up to 658m. The finish on Boulevard de Risso within the city limits, ensured the viewing public could enjoy the finale at their convenience. That said, city centre finales created their own problems: during the 1930 edition a young couple crossing the road caused the race leader, Amilcar Cavandoli, to crash and be passed by the winner Charles de Ambrosi as he desperately remounted his bike. But it was rare that the peloton arrived together in Nice. From the beginning, the race was a war of attrition - during the first edition in 1922 the race blew to pieces on the Col de Nice and the bunch reduced itself from 75 to 16. This ‘gentle’ 6.5kms climb may not have been critical in the race’s outcome but it was where the selection was made and usually formed the group from which the vainqueur would emerge. To summit the Col de Nice is to pass through the gateway to the mountains, and for the Boucle de Sospel it was into the amphitheatre for the main act of this play – the Col de Braus. It was on the slopes of the 10km climb that winner of the first edition, Second Ganora, managed to escape from the leading pack and stay away for victory. A long solo victory, that is every racing cyclist’s dream. The Braus was a launchpad to success. And it is undoubtedly René Vietto’s climb. In 1931 he was one of the debutants to line up at Place des XV Corps at the tender age of 16. His youth goes some way to explaining why he didn’t dominate the race. But his natural climbing ability meant he was part of the select group that arrived first on the Col de Braus. The weather was bad, with rain and fog making visibility difficult. There were attacks on the ascent and descent of the Braus. Vietto remained in the chasing pack, and it was only in the last climb to La Turbie that he let his ability loose and reeled in the leaders. Vietto rode into Nice with Paolo Bianchi and took the sprint by a bike length. In 1934 René returned to the Boucle parcours, but not in the local race. It was the year of his Tour debut, during which he announced himself as one of the best grimpeurs in the world. He dominated the traverse of the Alps taking two stage victories by soloing over the Galibier and then repeating the feat over the Col de Vars and Col d’Allos, where the high alps meet the Alpes-Maritimes. The final alpine stage followed an extended version of the Boucle de Sospel route, finishing in René's hometown of Cannes, rather than Nice. It was written.... Just like his win in 1931, the weather turned bad immediately after the stage départ. But this time Vietto did not wait in the pack. On the Braus he attacked and established a gap. He rode solo until Guiseppe Martano, who was second in the general classification, surprised yellow jersey holder Antonin Magne and managed to bridge the gap across to Vietto. But René had arrived on the coast to go tête-à-tête before. He kept his head to take the sprint and an extremely emotional third stage victory in his hometown. We can only guess that was his most valued victory, together with the first on his palmares on the same course. The Braus was part of him and René asked for his ashes to be scattered on its slopes when he died. And what of the amateurs? There are many names of which will only be known to their descendants and locals. But one stands out. Prince Igor Troubetzkoy was a french born Russian aristocrat. And a sports fanatic. He was a skier but showed more potential on the bike. And off it he became the fourth husband of socialite and heiress, Barbara Hutton, which gained him fame. But sport was his passion and he swooped to victory in the 1933 Boucle, before he eventually settled on his real love, car racing. He won the Targa Florio and then drove the first Ferrari to be entered into a Grand Prix - none other than the Monaco GP in 1948. It is noteable that the race continued to be held for the majority of the duration of the war. But then it disappeared in 1948. One final edition was held in 1983, and was won by Pascal Simon who then went on to take the Yellow Jersey on stage 10 of the Tour that year, only to break his shoulder blade the following day. He managed, incredibly, to hold the jersey for six days. Proof, if needed, that the Lost Races of the Côte d’Azur provide tough riders. RIDERS' NOTES Boucle de Sospel Full RouteCol de Nice Col de Braus Col de Castillion Read more about the races that gone but not forgotten in our Courses Disparues series.