Jebel Jais – A Mountain in the Desert

What might you expect from a bike ride in the desert? Sand in your face, crosswinds dragging at your wheels, and an unbearable heat? Not quite. We visited the United Arab Emirates (UAE) to discover a burgeoning cycling scene in a place you might not expect. Instead of the obvious images of bling cars, skyscrapers and palm trees, Dubai has a welcoming feel for cyclists looking to find warmth in winter and some training rides at elevation. Beyond the cycle paths and city limits is a playground of rolling roads with silky smooth tarmac, and very distinctive mountains. You might also see the odd camel or oryx on your ride too.

Since 2019 the WorldTour has come to Dubai and the UAE for the premier race in the Middle East, the UAE Tour. The stereotypical image of a peloton battling in the echelons on flat roads is countered by a number of climbs in the region, notably Jebel Jais. Located in the Al Hajar mountain range, the stark geological structures set against the hazy desert sky give these roads an otherworldly appearance. The highest summit in the UAE, the climb was the finish for stage four of this year’s race, won by current Tour de France champion Tadej Pogacar, and rider for the UAE Team Emirates, no less.

We tackled Jebel Jais early one Tuesday morning in March, to avoid traffic out of Dubai and the heat at the bottom of the valley. Beginning from Ras Al Khaimah, where we parked up, the first few kilometres we saw construction sites and trucks carrying rubble down the mountain. This is another constant alongside fancy cars in this part of the world – building work. But that was virtually the only traffic we saw on the road. Perfection.

Jebel Jais is a 35 kilometre climb with a smooth average gradient of 4.1% and all the way up and down, there were mountain goats (caution on the descent as they often cross in small groups) scurrying about. We discovered riding in a group helped against the inevitable desert winds rolling through the valley, but the smooth grip of the road helped us along.

The road was wide with perfect black tarmac, and switchbacks offering scenic views of the surrounding mountains and rock forms. The top of the climb takes you up to 1608 metres above the sea, and when we got there we felt very far from the ocean indeed. Where the climb ends you will also find the highest restaurant of the UAE with iridescent Bentleys and stretch Hummers parked outside.

You can also find the longest zip-wire in the world here, if you decide that is a sensible form of transport. The road actually continues up into the mountains from here but is closed to the public as Sheik of Al Khaimah has a palace tucked away there. Once over the summit you cross the border into Oman.

Temperatures are of course much cooler at 1600m, making our coffee break under the sun very enjoyable. On the way back down we see Emirati rider and teammate of Tadej Pogacar, Yousif Mirza, climbing at an impressive pace. The change in temperature is very sudden, and arriving at the bottom a wave of hot air crashes down on you, and you realise you are back in the heat of the desert.

With thanks to our wonderful partner Pedal CC Dubai for logistical support and provision of bikes.

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