Fête des Zinzins
Fête des Zinzins. A celebration of the Brevet des Zinzins de Turini for a select group of cycling assassins. Assassins trained to kill cols with their legs using only carbon, a bit of forged aluminum, and a lot of force and determination.
These are those willing and, maybe-hopefully-possibly, capable of three times Turini. Scaling each side of the mountain triangle, that is no mean human feat.
Kieran, Valentin, Saif, Pierre, Sonny, Thierry, Matthew, Nico et Denis. Each to a man possess the correct amount of mental (dys)functions when it comes to two-wheeled challenges. Tenacity, curiosity, audacity...and maybe a little crazy - French translation : zinzin.
It’s almost an hour’s riding from the Café to the first control stamp at Pan d'Aqui, L'Escarène - the boulangerie beside the bridge. The bread had been cooked, the question on everyone's mind was how well done their legs would be by the end of the day. 'Bien cuit, bien sûr’
Old bornes are the best bornes. This one, at Lucéram is an in-house Café favourite, apart from the remaining distance indicated. It's a full 27kms for the FIRST climb from L'Escarène via Lucéram. Do not rush, let the mountain rhythm come to you.
The twisting and turning really starts between the Pas de l'Escous and the Baisse de la Cabanette. That’s a 'pas', then a 'baisse' before the premier arrival at the col. It takes a lot of research and debate to distinguish between these three terms relating to peaks, points and passages in the mountains. Multi-layered folds of the earth's crust criss-crossed with mazes of quiet roads linking the perched hamlets to the valley villages below are part of what make Turini so special.
It takes a brave Zinzin to race another on this Brevet. This group is crazy, not stupid and so riders find their place on the road based on pace.
Pierre, Matthew and Nico show their form at the front, Thierry and Denis share memories of previous adventures, the Micheline brothers Valentin and Sonny admire each other's cycling jerseys, whilst Saif and Ivan appreciate the place as it's Saif's first visit. What a way to introduce yourself to Turini.
Through Peïra-Cava and into the freshness of the alpine forest on the cooler north side of the mountain. The first arrival at the col is barely acknowledged given the task ahead. But then the stamping of the cards amongst the pinball machine collection that resides in the bar attached to Hotel Les Chamois is a clear yellow and black marker of the achievement so far.
When pondering a challenge based on climbing it's all too easy to forget the other not so insignificant part of the ride. Down to Sospel takes approximately 45 mins which is an indication of both the length and complexity of the southern facing side. It requires both effort and concentration and is no small part in the challenge of this Brevet. The group lines out for the hairpins nestled below the Notre dame de Menaour.
Sospel is known more as a mountain bike town. Today it's central fountain is zinzin.
Denis is feeling the heat. Maybe it's the fatigue of the new baby in the house and not just the high 20's barometer reading. Immersion in the water is the only option.
Water, food, cards stamped, the group turns around quickly, eager to get the second ascension in the bag because two thirds is better than one half.
After the fact it is common perception that the 24km climb from Sospel is the hardest. Changes in pitch, the heat of the Gorge du Piaon, the rough road surface after Moulinet, the painted kilometre count-down in the unrelenting 8% of the forest at the top all contribute to a testing second climb.
Counting switchbacks in the forest becomes difficult as the trees block visual reference points and the gradient never relents. Tiredness affects judgement and the col is hidden from view.
Why do humans always push their limits this way and in others? To create a sense of control over themselves, or their surroundings? Is it a kind of self-destruction? Simple endorphin addiction?
There is logic (but also a certain lack of fear) in the statement that you cannot know where the limit is if you never go past it.
On this particular day for some of the Zinzins, two climbs was the limit.
The beauty of an open brevet, however, is that it will always be there to be ridden when time, weather and form allows. There is no number to be pinned, no entry fee to be paid. Just an old-fashioned card to be stamped in an old-fashioned manner to justify some good old-fashioned simple mountain riding.
And thus the selection for the third and final up-and-down was made, with Pierre, Matthew and Nico still all looking frustratingly fresh and even excited at the prospect.
The third descent has been referred to in Cyclist Magazine as 'the best in the world'. Consistent surface, corners with predictable radii and good visibility for a majority of the road all mean that speeds are as a high as the fun factor.
La Bollène-Vesubie is the sleepiest of the three base towns of the Turini. Perched two kilometres above the Vesubie valley it could be tempting to stay and then roll down beside the river back to the seaside.
However, with a Brevet card five-sixths full, abandoning now is not an option. Settle in and pedal for somewhere between one to one-and-a-quarter hours to Zinzin glory.
The remaining group make it look easy. At this stage rhythm is there. Bodies and minds have accepted this mountain and the effort required to climb it.
At the top there is even the energy for a race to the summit between wheelie-pulling Nico and Matthew. Pierre trails by a few seconds but pulls a Contador-style pistol in front of an infectious smile, letting out a bit of his internal crazy in a moment of finish-line happiness.
RIDERS' NOTES
Discover the Brevet des Zinzins de Turini HERE
Footnotes: Photography : Matt Wragg