Lyon : Ride of Lights

In 1852, the terrible cholera epidemic that has ravaged the city of Lyon has come to an end, and the inhabitants decide to dedicate a collective event to the Virgin Mary, the Festival of Lights. Since then, it has become a major cultural event. Every year, on the first weekend of December, thousands flock to the heart of the city to see light shows that will animate the streets for four nights.

The illuminations of historic buildings are one of the highlights of the Festival of Lights. From the Notre-Dame de Fourvière basilica to the Museum of Fine Arts via Place Bellecour, light displays are the backdrop for music concerts, pyrotechnics and other performances.

It's 2022 at 9 am, the city is waking up. The streets still bear the scars of the long night that shook the city. The crowd ended up deserting the public places and in this freezing cold December, the silence that reigns around is almost deafening next to the echo of empty bottles being swept up. In front of Grimpeurs Cyclist House, in the heart of the old town, a small group is bustling about, a dozen cyclists unstoppable by last night’s partying or an icy winter morning. They’re ready to do battle on two wheels – a 70-kilometre tour through the mountains of Lyon. The leader of this small peloton is ex-pro road racer Jérôme Cousin, he’s just the man for this chilly job.

Grimpeurs Cyclist House (grimpeur is French for ‘climber’ just in case you needed reminding), is a renowned place for cycling enthusiasts in the region. This large modern space offers all the services and amenities a cyclist could dream of and the place offers easy access to cycle paths and surrounding mountain roads. Many cyclists meet here, it is the starting point for infinite adventures on two wheels, plus pre and post-ride fuelling.

After dipping a slice of cake in black coffee at the counter of the store, we tear ourselves away from the ambient heat to join the horde outside. This is undoubtedly the opportunity to ride with a pro who has pushed these fellows outside on such a bitter cold day. It is certainly for the same reason that the small peloton leaves the city at a steady pace, a pace that it will maintain all morning. The original itinerary will, however, be modified. With the thermometer reading -5°C, the small road that the group must take on the Monts du Lyonnais is totally frozen. To venture there would be to run the risk of finding oneself collectively on the deck. The group is unanimous, no one wants to spend Christmas with a leg in plaster or an arm in a sling. The outing will continue along the plains around Lyon.

The group reaches the banks of the river Saône. The old 12th century building in front of which the bicycles now pass is a Mecca for French gastronomy. Collonges-au-Mont-d'Or Abbey has belonged to the Bocuse family for over 100 years. It was the famous chef Paul Bocuse who created this establishment, which he managed for more than 50 years, famed throughout the world.

A credo of excellence: highlighting traditional French cuisine using high quality local ingredients. The interior of the restaurant, decorated with original paintings, wood panelling and works of art, creates a luxurious atmosphere on a par with the cuisine on offer. The cyclists will perhaps come back to eat and revel here another time, the hour is already well advanced, and the successive punctures of one of theirs has caused the average tempo to drop and cool the organisms of every riding body.

Back inside the Grimpeurs Cyclist House, the cookies and cappuccini offered by the Barista put a smile on faces still tense with the cold air. Outside the streets are already filled with many tourists gearing up for another night of illuminations. In a few hours, night will fall on the city, the facades will light up, music will resound from all sides, the Festival of Lights will be in full swing.

FURTHER RIDING