GRAVEL GROOVING IN THE COTENTIN

SOPHIE GATEAU AND A GROUP OF FRIENDS ENJOY A RELAXED SPRINGTIME GRAVEL TRIP IN AN ENCHANTED CORNER OF NORMANDY.

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For the past few years, we’ve gone as a group of friends to the Cotentin, for the ‘Cap ou pas Cap’ gravel randonnée, which is organised by the amazing Cyclo Club de Montebourg on a long weekend in May. The goal is to ride 417 kilometres in a maximum of 3.5 days.

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The Cotentin is a peninsula located in the north-west of France, opposite the islands of Jersey and Guernsey. The landscapes are wild and stunning. We ride through flower-filled moors that evoke Ireland, and pass through small villages of grey stone houses with blue slate roofs, built to withstand the toughest marine weather.

We visit the beaches where the D-Day landings took place during the Second World War. The surrounding villages are buzzing with activity because the 80th anniversary of the landings is in a few days, and many veterans are expected for the D-Day commemorations. The numerous bunkers still present along the coast serve as canvases for street artists, or even playgrounds for the most skilled of the cyclists among us, who attempt some tricks on their bikes.

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Passing through lush and majestic forests, we admire the breathtaking views of the sea from the top of some of the highest cliffs in Europe. Riding a gravel bike in this region is a refreshing pleasure. Almost every turn reveals something new: a historical monument or an unforgettable panorama, an animal to stop and talk to or pet, a café or restaurant offering local specialties (oysters and teurgoule normande – a kind of Normandy rice pudding), and many other remarkable spots. In short, we don’t cover many kilometres each day, but we make the most of it.

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Almost every turn reveals something new: a historical monument or an unforgettable panorama

We ride on all types of small roads, trails, and paths, with a special mention for our favourites: the singletrack lined with wildflowers taller than us, or the passages between the hedges of the pastures, forming dark tunnels of branches.

Nature is lush and abundant here, especially since the climate is mild and humid. The locals will tell you that you never leave home without a windbreaker or rain jacket in the Cotentin. Message received: we pack enough gear to face any weather conditions. Indeed, we have many opportunities to test the waterproofness of our rain jackets!

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After three days of camping and cycling, with far more time spent on breaks than on the bike, we are definitely ready to subscribe to the Slow Cycling Club. We can’t wait for next spring to do it all over again!

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