Isabel Del Real : A bike, a drawing kit and a graphic novel later

Isabel Del Real – long-distance cyclist and ‘documentary cartoonist’ – came to Nice to share her story and brush strokes with us. The globe-pedalling bike-packer and water-colourist hosted a discussion at the Café about her far-out adventures. After graduating from Law school in Paris Isabel decided to leave it all behind and bike-pack her way from Brittany to Teheran (‘a random destination I chose to shock my grandma.’)

‘I wanted to ride the Silk Road and see these places I’d read about.’

Her imagination nourished, Isabel built her bike and adventure companion with the help of friends: a Surly Ogre equipped with second-hand panniers – designed for exploring and riding further afield. And so, she set off east to see the mountains.

‘Shkhara is the highest point in the country of Georgia [5,193m], located near the Russian border, in Russia's Kabardino-Balkaria region on the northern side, and the Svaneti region of Georgia in the south.’

She documented the journey with her water colours in a travel diary and from this has created a graphic novel titled Plouheran (Plouër-sur-Rance, her little village in Brittany, and Tehran the ultimate goal).

Here is a recap of her experience and advice for those looking to to strike out on their own bikepacking adventures; as told to an audience in June 2023.

The Journey

It was my first experience of bikepacking, completely alone. Everything is new. You have to gain confidence. My first time in a bivouac, looking for a place to set up: either close to the towns or very far away. The unfamiliar noises and creaks, the smells, the sensations. Where would I take shelter, where would I hide my tent, to be discreet, and leave no trace?

My first scares in Lozère after a night lulled by the legend of the Gévaudan beast. Then all was forgotten. Perhaps the wolf wasn't that hungry.

Then onto Italy, where I met Sebastiano in the Veneto, and followed him all the way to Slovenia. Then on through the Balkans to Greece and Turkey. Along the way I would meet other travellers, following and sharing stretches of road, meals together on stoves, improvised cooking over gas bottles, always with the stars on the ceiling for entertainment.

In Turkey, I took a break, drawing and trying to perfect my skills. A visit from my parents and a small parcel from Café du Cycliste warmed my heart. By the time I left Istanbul, I knew a few words to talk to people. I took the ferry across the Bosphorus. I crossed desert landscapes, sometimes alone but often with travelling companions. Then the along the Black Sea, with lush vegetation and humidity.

And finally I arrived in Georgia, with its famous mountain to climb before winter: the Shkhara. But I had to be quick, as the bears were getting ready to hibernate, so best not to hang around too long...

A short tour of Armenia before heading into Iran (its borders open after two years) where I gabbled the Farsi language, met some expats and stumbled upon a music festival. At the end of the journey, reaching Tehran I’d cycled 15,000 km in 10 months, and done lots of drawing.

If you're as curious as I was about such a journey, go out and buy some books, read Ella Maillart, Parmi la Jeunesse Russe or La Voie Cruelle (a solo cycling trip in Afghanistan). Enough to transport you, and give you a few cravings.

The Graphic Novel

Thanks to this trip, I've found something else; drawing and writing stories, telling what I see through smoke bubbles... There were no plans to draw at the beginning, it was just a matter of finding the right medium. For me this this has become just as important as the journey, if not more so.

I read and listened to everything, and I took notes to practise telling a story, creating a narrative, chapters, characters... I listened to Riad Sattouf podcasts and read Marjane Satrapi, taking notes and sketching in my black Moleskine book. From there it grew to a larger sketchbook and a watercolour kit.

As I travelled further, as the journey progressed, so did my drawings and ‘story’. I like to convey emotions through colour, but it's all improvised and drawn as the adventure unfolds. It all grew naturally as I went along, because I was on my own for a very long time, I had the head space to develop a narrative.

I then created a character to develop a greater sense of distance, a heroine with blonde hair, a detail that allowed me to tell an intimate, autobiographical story. To tell a sincere story.

I take inspiration from a lot of American graphic novels. But I don’t follow any particular codes or standards. It’s an autobiographical story but punctuated with free-form parts that are sometimes more contemplative.

A year of drawing, reworking illustrations and dialogue let my style mature and confidence in my work grow. It was with my mind hooked on the pedals that I envisaged drawing comics.

I didn't force myself, I just enjoyed the ride. I was happy.

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