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RIDE OF THE MONTH : JULY

July's ride of the month is one that joins the dots, linking together the perched villages of l'arrière-pays niçois. In French we'd call it a 'parcours des villages perchés'.

RIDE OF THE MONTH : JULY

There are pretty French villages, and then there are really pretty French villages. The sheer amount of them led to the invention of a system that categorized the cream of the crop as 'Les Plus Beaux Villages de France'. Only 20% of applicants are awarded such privileged status. In the Alpes-Maritimes department we have three, and two of them are on cycling climbs. Slap bang in the middle of this ride is one such village, on the less popular but no less beautiful climb to Col St Roch.

RIDE OF THE MONTH : JULY

First, to start the chain we ride to Falicon. Located directly north of Nice and sitting at the foot of Mont Chauve it's on the Route des Villages Perchés created by the local government to guide tourists on their own join the dot adventure. Cyclists however take a different route to find the empty roads.

RIDE OF THE MONTH : JULY

We descend from Falicon and follow the valley to Tourettes-Levens before turning on to the Col de Châteauneuf. The western side of the Col is a manageable climb at 5.5km with an average of 5% gradient. The village that gives the climb its name, Châteauneuf-VielleVille, is ironically a de-perched village of sorts. The ruins above the Col de Châteauneuf give an indication of a previous, higher life. Once the danger of more barbaric times had passed, the residents moved to farm the lower pastures where olive trees and citron groves bathe in the Mediterranean climate.

RIDE OF THE MONTH : JULY

Through the village, the hairpin with the croix de fer on the inside offers views back to the sea on the outside. It’s worth an Instagram moment. Further down the descent, the next habitation on a hill comes into view – Contes has a dominant position on the rocks in the Paillon valley. It’s from here that we follow the valley to La Route du Soleil.

RIDE OF THE MONTH : JULY

Those paying attention to the bornes at the side of the road just after passing under the cliff face on which Conte's sits will notice it is more than 20km to Col St Roch. That is a lot of up. Thankfully it is a climb of two halves, punctuated in the middle by Coaraze.

RIDE OF THE MONTH : JULY

Internet research doesn't throw up any explanations as to why the road to Coaraze is known as the Route du Soleil, but riding it provides more than ample evidence. In July, it's a hot road to ride. And it's that sun that provides the light that inspires the artists. In the village itself there are sundials designed by a number of artists including Jean Cocteau. The sun not only helps tell the time here but it also bathes and nutures the mimosas, olive trees, cypress trees, oaks, chestnut trees and pines. As Cocteau himself said, "The Côte (d'Azur) is the greenhouse where the roots grow. Paris is the shop where the flowers are sold."

RIDE OF THE MONTH : JULY

The village brasserie is a perfect stop for a cold Orangina, and just across the street is a fountain to fill bidons before the second half of the climb. Leaving Coaraze, the road enters a different, higher and more rugged mountain world. Rumour has it that this is Chris Froome's favourite stretch of road in the entire region. It is almost always quiet with minimal traffic.

RIDE OF THE MONTH : JULY

The road dips and dives for approximately 4km before the final climb starts. Up to the left somewhere is a trail that goes to the lost village of Roca Sparviera, which can be found riding the north side gravel of Mont Férion. But today is about the road and the 5.5kms to the Col du Savel is as a stern test of fitness, especially given what has already passed under your wheels. Look up and you might see the imposing wall that holds up the road as it hairpins left towards the summit. It's from that corner that most people stop to photograph the switchbacks below.

RIDE OF THE MONTH : JULY

Over the top of the Col du Savel and you get 1km of downhill to the Col St Roch. Col collecting has never been so easy. Take the right for the fast descent to Luceram, not so muchna perched village but rather a snuggled one, surrounded by the peaks that lead to Piera-Cava and on to the Col de Turini.

RIDE OF THE MONTH : JULY

From Luceram, if you've had your fill of climbing to hilltop villages you can descend the whole way to Nice. For those who want more, take the left opposite the boulangerie in L'Escarène to descend to Grave de Peille and climb to Peille village. It's a real testing climb that starts of with 3km of steep gradients, but Peille is maybe the village on this ride that is most deserving of entry into Les Plus Beaux Villages de France. When the climb is done, take the time to descend off the main road and venture into the small streets of the village. Somewhere in the heart of it is a beautiful fountain surrounded by shops and houses that have stood still in time. Do that yourself and savour the moment. Then wheelie your way back to Nice.

RIDE OF THE MONTH : JULY

 

Read about other Rides of the Month and find the perfect route by season. Or discover more details about cycling on the Cote d'Azur with our Riding Guide to Nice.